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327 camshaft question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by rjr9603, Jan 21, 2013.

  1. rjr9603
    Joined: Apr 1, 2008
    Posts: 10

    from WV

    I am looking for some camshaft advice for a 327. The 327 is a pretty mild build 9:1, rebuilt 1.94 valve double hump heads.

    The car is a 1950 Belair, th400, 2600 stall, 3.55 posi rear.

    My goal is a decent street cruiser. Just looking for input on Duration and lift with my set up.

    Thanks for any input.
  2. 350hp cam, goes by 151.
  3. parklane
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 188


    Ya, what he said. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
  4. you will get as many different answers as there are guys on the HAMB

    whatever you do ,it's better to go smaller than too big

  5. Mitchell Rish
    Joined: Jun 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,181

    Mitchell Rish
    from Houston MS

    The factory (350 horse -151 -is a nice cam) if my memory serves me -( .447 lift / and about 308 duration) it wont eat parts - good performance , and all your stock stuff works - I would run at least the Z 28 springs . Also known as the the L 79 cam also - but its been a while since Ive built a SBC.
  6. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 19,620

    from Michigan

    I'd go with the L-79 cam in a heartbeat... Ditto on the Z/28 valve springs.... An Air-Gap intake with those heads is a plus!!!!..;)
  7. rjr9603
    Joined: Apr 1, 2008
    Posts: 10

    from WV

    Yeah I figured I would get a lot of different opinions. I was figuring on something in the 215~220 @ 050 range.

    What maximum recommended lift with the pressed in studs?
  8. Gator
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 4,016


  9. Joliet Jake
    Joined: Dec 6, 2007
    Posts: 497

    Joliet Jake
    from Jax, FL

    I have always called my cam manufacturer for input and guidance. I also take advice from the guy building my engine. Please call your cam maker, think about contacting Schnider Cams for a cam for the 327. Everybody has advice on cams, some good, some not so good but the guys that actually grind them are the real experts. At least they have been spot on for me. Good luck with your choice.
  10. 64falconsix
    Joined: Jan 3, 2013
    Posts: 128

    from Daphne Al.

    and again the 350 hp cam., built a 350 with 9.1 , 194 heads, headers, weiand dual plane edelbrock carb, mallory coil..... in front of an auto trans and 3.42 gears. it was an awesome street motor with plenty of torque. pulled strong from off idle up through mid range.
  11. big duece
    Joined: Jul 28, 2008
    Posts: 6,117

    big duece
    from kansas

    I thought that cam was designed for upwards of 10.5-11:1 cr? I had that cam in a 327, flat tops. 1.94 's etc... did way better in upper rpm, loaded up at idle. Probably because its was with auto trans and no stall.
  12. slammed
    Joined: Jun 10, 2004
    Posts: 8,151


    Lift .440-460 intake .220 range of duration. Street type cam. Those numbers are a good general everyday performance cam. And a good sounding idle too.
  13. fiveohnick2932
    Joined: Mar 29, 2006
    Posts: 889

    from Napa, Ca.

    mild: comp 268 or magnum 270. Duration no more than 230 @ .050. keep your lift under .500 or better yet .480 to keep from having to spend a bunch on extra valvetrain. springs would be the most you will need for one of these cams.

    mild-hot: Duntov 30-30, comp magnum 280

    Hot: GM 140 cam. Anything above about 238 deg @ .050.
  14. Rattle Trap
    Joined: May 11, 2012
    Posts: 358

    Rattle Trap

    I have used plenty of their cams over the years. I went to school with the son who is now the owner. Good people. And nice cams.
  15. vpd
    Joined: Mar 14, 2007
    Posts: 15


    I recommend a Comp cam High Energy 268. It is like a more modern grind of the 350hp 327 cam.
  16. 26 roadster
    Joined: Apr 21, 2008
    Posts: 2,015

    26 roadster

    mild: comp 268 or magnum 270. Duration no more than 230 @ .050. keep your lift under .500 or better yet .480 to keep from having to spend a bunch on extra valvetrain. springs would be the most you will need for one of these cams.

    mild-hot: Duntov 30-30, comp magnum 280

    Hot: GM 140 cam. Anything above about 238 deg @ .050.[/QUOT

    ditto on these choices
  17. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 20,977


    I'm more curious about the 2600 stall.
  18. the factory 350hp cam, although there may be 'better' cams, newer technology etc...they are sick, my brother had one in a similar motor in a 67 Camaro, 9 to 1 or so, maybe closer to 9.5 to 1, 350, powerglide with 4.11s and it went real good
  19. Someone told him if he put a cam in it he would need one of them stall converters.

    A little backward by my way of thinking, buy a converter then get a cam to go with it.

    A fella came into the shop once and he wanted his block dicked and his vals canted, and bore it some. I was already bored so they had me dick his block and told him that we didn't have an canted vals but we could prolly make him sum. :rolleyes:
  20. TheTrailerGuy
    Joined: Jun 18, 2011
    Posts: 392


    YES!!! This cam... you will not be sorry.
  21. Abomb
    Joined: Oct 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,659


    I went with the 268H and z-28 springs in my 331, It makes me happy when it's idling and when my foot is on the floor....The lowish 9:1 comp. makes me think you wouldn't be quite as happy with the L79 cam. Chevrolet never put them in anything under 11:1.
  22. Actually they do better than one would think in a 9-9.5 :1 engine. We run them all the time in the low compression motors and they do real well.

    They don't make anywhere near the zot that they would make in an 11:1 engine but they are not a slouch either. The 2600 RPM converter is questionable to me, it is just not necessary with a mild build and certainly not necessary with that cam.
  23. 1934coupe
    Joined: Feb 22, 2007
    Posts: 4,317


    What he said. And this, any of the comp cams mild hydraulic cams are better than a GM cam. The are all blueprinted and spot on degree wise where-as I have seen 3 chevy 350ci-350hp cams all have different degree in readings.

  24. mustang6147
    Joined: Feb 26, 2010
    Posts: 1,847

    from Kent, Ohio

    The converter is built to cam card specs. Or bought with the cam card....I wouldnt go any more then 13 or 1500 on the street myself.

    Valve seat spring pressure should be over 85 but 110 is optimal for street use.

    I say no more then 480 lift and no more then 220 duration. You can degree the cam to acheive the power curve desired.
  25. oldolds
    Joined: Oct 18, 2010
    Posts: 3,116


    All these cam specs look good to me. I questioned the converter and trans choice. I wouls use a th350. Gives you a lower first gear ( most of the time). His car has some weight to it and he isn't going for extreme power build. Then get the converter the cam guy recomends.
  26. ben s.
    Joined: Dec 27, 2009
    Posts: 58

    ben s.
    from St. Louis

    I would suggest a call/email to a cam company. They told me a different cam than what I was originally looking at. I looked at the Comp 268 and 274 style cams, What was recommended was a single pattern tight lsa grind. It's Lunati 275, 224/224 .477/.477 1800-5800 for my 350@ 9.7:1. It screams in my 1950 3100 Chevy. I had a big dual pattern wide lsa cam 234/244, and it was a dog. I drive on the street and street rpms are way lower. You have torquey heads, I would stay with a smaller cam. It would be better to under do than over do. My power brakes suffer a little even with the 224 cam. The bigger cams tend to get worse mpg when mismatched.

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