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Technical 327 Cam Question?

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by 31hotrodguy, Aug 27, 2019.

  1. 31hotrodguy
    Joined: Oct 29, 2013
    Posts: 868

    31hotrodguy
    Member

    Because I have hot rod ADHD and I can’t focus on anyone thing for too plus I just heard that the TriFive nationals are coming to Bakersfield in May of 2020 it has inspired me to get my 327 finished for my black 57 210. I need help in the cam department an I’m kinda stuck between the Duntov 097 cam and the 30-30 347 cam that cam out a few years later????
    What sayith you all??? Should I just go for the bigger 30-30 cam or will the Duntov get the job done for a stocker?
    327, factory 11:1 TRW pistons
    461’s 2.02/1.60
    Stahl headers etc.
    I’m probably going to run my stealth intake for now but hopefully I’ll finally get my injector later in the year.
    Any suggestions from my HAMB friends???


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  2. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 2,210

    Fordors
    Member

    I’d run the Duntov, it will make a better street cam. If you do go with the 30/30 look into how some guys lash them at .023 setting them cold on the base circle.
     
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  3. Scooterlee2198
    Joined: Jun 9, 2019
    Posts: 39

    Scooterlee2198
    Member
    from Kentucky

    What rpm and springs?
     
  4. redo32
    Joined: Jul 16, 2008
    Posts: 1,488

    redo32
    Member

    I was looking thru Comp Cams on line the other day and they have a modern hydraulic cam called 30-30 that sounds like the old Chevy cam.
     
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  5. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 25,625

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Having spent more Saturdays adjusting the lifters on the Engle solid lifter cam that was in the 327 in my 57 panel and the old Chevy 30-30 that I had in the 283 in my T bucket and then in my 48 I don't want to see a solid lifter cam unless it is in a race only engine.
    That may be just me and the two cams I happened to have but there are better ways to spend your Saturday morning than adjusting lifters on all too many of them.
     
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  6. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 17,777

    Deuces
    Member
    from Michigan

    This is the way I've always done it..... Best to do on a 70° morning when the engine is cold.. I always shot for a .026" lash... By the time the engine warmed up at 180°, the lash would grow to .030" .... Perfict! ;)
     
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  7. southcross2631
    Joined: Jan 20, 2013
    Posts: 2,978

    southcross2631
    Member

    A well setup solid lifter cam will not be an every weekend lifter adjustment . Use some quality name brand roller rockers and use good locks for adjusting . You should be able to go about twice a year on valve adjustment. Unless you are wringing the snot out of it every time you drive it.
    The old style stock rockers and nuts would require frequent adjustments.
    My 396-375 O/T Camaro was a monthly chore to adjust .It got driven daily and street raced every weekend. It was just a routine thing adjust the valves and check the points.
    Otherwise go with a hydraulic and just enjoy your car.
     
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  8. I ran an L88 solid lifter cam in my stock car when it was a big block. I had the polylocks and ARP studs, we would adjust the lash every 3 or 4 races. The abuse it saw in a season was beyond what a street car would be subjected to in a year.
     
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  9. 31hotrodguy
    Joined: Oct 29, 2013
    Posts: 868

    31hotrodguy
    Member

    The rpm will somewhat depend on the cam but probably around 7000. For the track I have a 5:38 posi with aftermarket axles for race day. If I ran the 098 I was thinking I’d just run the factory Z28 springs. If the bigger cam I haven’t decided on springs yet.


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  10. 31hotrodguy
    Joined: Oct 29, 2013
    Posts: 868

    31hotrodguy
    Member

    I saw that one too but this one has to be a solid cam.


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  11. 31hotrodguy
    Joined: Oct 29, 2013
    Posts: 868

    31hotrodguy
    Member

    Agreed but after recently having to adjust the lifters on a flathead for the first time I think I’ll never complain about adjusting lifters on my Chevy ever again! Lol


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  12. We turned 8 grand with the 098 cam with matching off road factory springs .
     
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  13. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 23,423

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

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  14. saltracer219
    Joined: Sep 23, 2006
    Posts: 639

    saltracer219
    Member

    You won't be dissapointed with the 30-30. As has already been said, good valvetrain set up properly will make your life easier. I have had a Comp 282 solid cam that lashes at .022-.024 in my 425 hp 350 for over 20 years and I run it pretty hard. I check the lash once a year and rarely need to make any changes.
     
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  15. I am running the COMP 30-30H (hydraulic) in the 327 that's in my O/T 68 Camaro. Stock 2.02 heads with factory Z/28 valve springs, factory Z/28 intake and a Holley 650. I am also running 10.5:1 compression as I still have the original flat top pistons. Car sounds fantastic and the motor runs hard.

    If you want to hear the cam i can send a message with a video link
     
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  16. 34Phil
    Joined: Sep 12, 2016
    Posts: 191

    34Phil

  17. SASROD
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 118

    SASROD
    Member

    Little bit OT question, but why do solid lift cams need periodic adjustment? Do valvetrain components wear, or just back the adjustment off. Seems like good locks would take care of it.
     
  18. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 3,880

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    IME the gap tightens as the engine warms up. Expansion of the metal components leads to decreased lash, not an increase.
     
  19. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 3,880

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    Components wear, valves & seats wear (lash gets tighter); Rocker arms, pushrods, valve stem tips, lifter bases, on engines with rocker are shafts the bushings in the rocker arms, they all wear with use and the lash increases. Sometimes one cancels out the other. Too tight leads to burned valves; too loose leads to too much noise & more wear on parts that are slamming at very high rates of motion.

    There is a lot of satisfaction from setting the valves and listening to the engine run when you get it right. Try it on a 19 liter Cummins, or a V12 Detroit. You can stand there and listen to it run for a long time, digging how good it sounds. When you get it wrong, it bugs the hell out of you, and you want to take it down and do it over to get it right.
     
  20. Desoto291Hemi
    Joined: Apr 21, 2009
    Posts: 836

    Desoto291Hemi
    Member

    I love solid lift cams.
    Also,,,, I never had any trouble with adjusting them all the time.
    Because, I didn’t have to,,,,,maybe go over them once a year,,,just to be sure.
    Maybe I was just lucky!

    Tommy
     
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  21. I adjust mine hot with the engine running......that way I know they are set properly at 0.030 each (on a 327/375 HP motor). A bit of oil squirting, but no big deal with good rag placement. You may want to consider pinned or threaded studs.....I pinned mine...not issues for 30 years......6800+ RPM easily.

    I have used lots of "097" cams and found the ".030-.030" cam to much better on the top end.....BUT, it doesn't come to life until about 3000 RPM......pretty doggy below that with a GM dual plane intake manifold.
     
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  22. OLDSMAN
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 1,890

    OLDSMAN
    Member

    Valve train components wear the adjustment
    Gets the lash correct. A hydraulic lifter will always adjust the lash automatically
     
  23. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 12,343

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    If people are honest they might say they keep the solid cam because of that little tick tick sound the lifters/rockers make, reminds them of their youth or something like that.
    I chose Rhoads lifters this time for the hot 350 in my 66 Suburban.
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2019
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  24. 31hotrodguy
    Joined: Oct 29, 2013
    Posts: 868

    31hotrodguy
    Member

    Awesome article! Sadly now I’m even more undecided because they threw the LT1 cam in the mix!


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  25. If you have a automatic go with the 097 cam. stick trans use the 30 -30 I adjust mine at .028 hot engine running. and not very often. Y block fords are all solid lifters and some run a lot of miles without needing adjusting with dry rocker arms LOL.
     
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  26. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 12,343

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    I've found that the discussion on camshafts/lifters can be as volatile as politics and religion, best just to make suggestions and let the OP do his due diligence on camshaft selection. As that article states, many other components need to be matched to a given cam/environment.
    If this ultimately ends up being more of a street/torque car than a strip/rpm car, you should find that with the LT-1 spec cam, it wouldn't be a bad choice.
    I'm a bit out of the loop as to what the aftermarket offers nowadays for street cams but those "blueprint type" cams that have been popular with some of the musclecar restoration crowd may be a consideration.
     
  27. Your durn right I like to hear the clatter of a solid lifter engine.
     
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  28. 31hotrodguy
    Joined: Oct 29, 2013
    Posts: 868

    31hotrodguy
    Member

    What is this automatic you speak of???? The 57 has been a stick since the day it left the factory!


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  29. Fogger
    Joined: Aug 18, 2007
    Posts: 1,391

    Fogger
    Member

    I run a 097 in my .030 over 283 in a '55 Delray. Flat top pistons, power pack heads, port matched Z28 intake, Edelbrock 500 cfm carburetor, Z28 valve springs, ARP rocker studs, full roller rocker arms, 30# flywheel and 3.08 rear gears. With a 3.26 first gear I really could use a 2.70 rear axle, but don't want to swap the rear axle. As others have said the 097 is a great street camshaft for a semi performance cruiser, very strong low rpm and will run up to 6,000 easily. The 30-30 is a high rpm shaft and not much happens until 3k. I get 18 to 20 mpg in my Chevy and only check the lash once a year. I believe that the '62 327s ran the 097 from the factory.
     
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  30. If you’re running stamped rockers, the little spring steel clips they sell do a decent job of keeping most of the oil from squirting out onto the exhaust.
    Not sure if they fit or sell a different one for roller rockers?

    As long as we’re doing opinions on what you should choose— I would look at a cam designed another half century later. H.A.M.B. police seem fine with it so just send Ryan a quick note and he’ll send you an exemption form to still be allowed to post here.
     
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