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Hot Rods '32 versus '40 Rear Ends

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Fortunateson, Apr 8, 2017.

  1. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 3,549

    Fortunateson
    Member

    I did search but didn't find anything to answer my question. I have a '32 5W with two original rear ends plus a '40 rear end. So which would be a better choice? How hard would it be to adapt the '40 brakes to a '32 rear end? Any benefits regarding ratios, strength, etc? I like to have my ducks in a row beforeI start things.
     
  2. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 3,549

    Fortunateson
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    Or would the '40 e '32 spring be the way to go?
     
  3. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 4,665

    Andy
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    40 brakes will go right on a 32 rear. The 40 rear is stronger and a little wider.
    The biggest problem is the driveshaft and torque tube. The 32 parts do not fit the 40 rear. Modified parts will have to be made. The driveshaft needs to be carefully shortened as the length has to be just right to obtain the right clearance between the speedometer gear and it's retraining snap ring. It also must be stright to keep from fatiguing and wearing out the splines. The torque tube would need a modified or later rear flange an also be shortened and straightened after the new flange and the radius rod anchor is welded on. I made special tools to check the straightness.
     
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  4. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 3,549

    Fortunateson
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    When you say stronger, how much strong? I'll be using an 8ab with three 97's but that is about it. Tranny will have Zephyr gears. I don't beat the hell out of my cars. Would the '32 be OK for my use? Sounds like a lot less work.
     

  5. flatheadtommy
    Joined: Oct 21, 2013
    Posts: 1,007

    flatheadtommy
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    My 32 has a real stout 4 1/8 by 3 3/8 flathead with a 26 tooth gear set and a stock 32 rear with 4:11 gears . I don't baby it, but I don't beat on it either and I never have had any problems with the rear. I personally would not change it.
    one other thing when you use the later rear on a full Fendered car the wheels are slightly forward in the wheelhouse.
    some people may never notice it but I always do, its the length of the spring hanger bracket off the rear. the 32 is shorter than the later rears. IMG_1482.JPG
     
  6. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,082

    alchemy
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    Which 32 rearends do you have? There are two kinds, the early with unsupported pinions, and the later with a bearing on the back end of the pinion. The early has a round flange at the back end of the torquetube, and the late has a scalloped flange.

    The later is pretty much the same strength as the 40 rear.
     
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  7. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 3,549

    Fortunateson
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    Thanks for your advice. I asked because I see a lot of '40 rear ends mentioned but I shall stay with original providing one is in good enough shape. Thanks.
     
  8. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 3,549

    Fortunateson
    Member

    Well I presume I have an early one as it looks to be original to the car. It came with a spare as well. I will inspect both in a couple of days. I presume the latter is better obviously but is it a huge difference for a mild mannered rod?
     
  9. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,082

    alchemy
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    Lots of cars used the early rears with big engines. But lots of people have chewed up later rears, including 40 or 48 rears with flatheads.
     
  10. flatheadtommy
    Joined: Oct 21, 2013
    Posts: 1,007

    flatheadtommy
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    My 32 is a late one with an Oct. build, and my rear has the round flange same as a model A. now I really don't know if the rear in my car is the one that it was born with, but my understanding was the waffle flange was 33 on up. I've seen early 33's with the round flange but I never saw a 32 with the waffle flange. But I could be wrong. I would be interested in any opinions on this. Thanks, Tommy Caruso.
     
  11. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 3,549

    Fortunateson
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    That's interesting. I wonder why emlater would be mor prone to being chewed up as you say? Perhaps people would take it easy on the earlier version and not worry so much about the later version and abuse it?
     
  12. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 3,549

    Fortunateson
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    Tommy, the '32 5W you posted is the look I will be going after. Is it yours?
     
  13. flatheadtommy
    Joined: Oct 21, 2013
    Posts: 1,007

    flatheadtommy
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    I'm fortunate to say yes it is IMG_1762.JPG IMG_1449.JPG IMG_1448.JPG
     
  14. thequietwon
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 600

    thequietwon
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    I have an original untouched 32 sedan that has the later "scalloped" pinon support. It's the only one I have seen personally, and it has a 25 louver hood as well.
     
  15. 504640
    Joined: Aug 8, 2011
    Posts: 514

    504640
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  16. flatheadtommy
    Joined: Oct 21, 2013
    Posts: 1,007

    flatheadtommy
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    Thanks for the compliment, My car was 1st hot rodded about 53'or 54'. the paint is what was applied back then, its Olds or Caddy Garnet red very close to Titian red. This car was stored in a nice dry barn with a wooden floor for many years until I was lucky to buy it. Its by far the nicest, tightest and quickest 32 I've ever driven. I look at it this way , I'm only the current caretaker. The only bumpers I have are ones that came with the car and they are shortened, Maybe because at one time a former owner considered running it as a Hi-boy.
     
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  17. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 3,549

    Fortunateson
    Member

    Tommy, thanks for the addtional pics. My 8ab will have a Fenton intake with three 97's and either early or late original Eddie Meyer heads. I nthink I see the same heads on your engine.
    But back to the rear end questions of which is better regarding better strength and gear ratios guys, any more comments?
     
  18. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,082

    alchemy
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    I don't mean that more later rear ends got ruined than early unsupported ones. I just mean that a guy with a lead foot could probably break anything. Even a built to the hilt 9" Ford. When using a banjo Ford rearend of any year you should probably use caution when leaving the stop light.

    If you want a particular gear ratio I suggest starting with a later rear because the variety of ratios is greater for those. Repro gears can be bought for all years, but they aren't cheap at all.
     
  19. Since the '32 rear end used the Model A rear end gears I think there are as many or more ratios available for the earlier rear.

    Charlie Stephens
     
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  20. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 3,549

    Fortunateson
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    Thanks guys. With the advice you have given I hank you have made my build a little bit easier.
     
  21. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 3,549

    Fortunateson
    Member

    I checked today and the rear end installed has the round flange, the spare has the scalloped flange, and of course the '40 has a scalloped flange. I was told the spare was a '32 but I am not certain. The radius rods have been cut off in a crude manner. Any way of IDing this spare? Are there any parts that can interchange between the round and the scalloped rear ends and if so what years? Thanks again.
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2017
  22. deucendude
    Joined: Oct 31, 2008
    Posts: 588

    deucendude
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    from norcal

    Take Alchemi's advice. Seems he knows what's right. I agree with him. Don't use the round flange rear end. Remember only 32, 33, and 34 are the right width for a 32. Later rear ends on a fendered car is too wide. Rear ends on early fords were changer like old socks.
     
  23. Sorry to hijack - Bob, great pair- that coupe and the 36 pickup


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  24. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,082

    alchemy
    Member

    If the spare has small flanges on the bottom (not all the way around) of the axle tubes about a half foot in from the backing plate, and these flanges are angled, then that is a late 32 thru 34 rearend. It has a supported pinion nose. Basically none of the internals will interchange between this style rear and the early 32 with an unsupported pinion.

    Most guys nowadays want a 3.78 or 3.54 rear gear in their car. Sure there are some of those gears around for the early rears, but there are lots more for the later. And a gear set from a 48 Ford can be cut down and installed in the later 32 rearend.
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2017
  25. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 3,549

    Fortunateson
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    Thank you.well I guess I will have to look closer at the spare. When the radius rods were cut off they kinda hacked it. I suppose I could use the better axle tubes off the rear end that is in the car and use the centre section from the spare rear end if it came to that. And if the '40 reader end has the more desirable ratio use that after it got trimmed down. By saying trimmed down would this be a matter of reducing the diameter using a lathe?
     
  26. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,082

    alchemy
    Member

    The center section from the early unsupported rearend doesn't interchange with the late 32 bells. Don't plan on mixing parts from early to late 32 rearends.

    To put late gears (40-48) into a late 32-34 rearend it requires some cutting on the ring and carrier, as well as the pinion. And making some spacers, as well as possibly shortening the driveshaft because the pinion is a bit longer. I had an old time machinist do mine, but don't have any specifics. I'm sure there's a thread on the HAMB somewhere with specifics if you could search for it.
     
  27. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 3,549

    Fortunateson
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    Thanks for the info.
     

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