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Technical 32 tudor

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by FlyingRN, Oct 10, 2018.

?
  1. idependent

    3.4%
  2. I beam

    93.1%
  3. something else

    3.4%
Multiple votes are allowed.
  1. FlyingRN
    Joined: Oct 10, 2018
    Posts: 9

    FlyingRN

    Hi everyone! Newbie here. My dad and I are about to revive his '32 tudor project and are looking for some guidance. He bought this model B in '74, got it running and drove it to a few event in the 70's, stock. One day in about 1982, he stripped it down because it wasn't "the car" he had dreamed of since he was in grade school. He pulled the basically rust free body off the frame, added a mustang II front end, rebuilt a 350 SBC and a M-21, made a trans crossmember, and hung a 8" on coilovers out back. Built a set of pedals and a tilt column mount and steering linkage. Unfortunately, he didnt want to cut the firewall or crossmember, so the oilpan is only about 3" off of the ground and the 4 link rearend forward mounts are about the same. He then ran out of time or money or both... He worked on it on weekends and such but it basically got put on the back burner.... Now, present day... I have recently moved to Clermont Florida, about 15 min from where he and my mom moved 15 years ago, and want to help him finish "his dream". My question is, should we start with the original 32 rails/mustang II/ 8" or go with a new chassis from someone like Brookville? This car is going to be a full-fendered, radial tired driver for him to enjoy. Plan is to retain the SBC, maybe sub the M-21 for a 200R4 and throw in some AC. (If I was the only diver, I'd loose the fenders and hood to show off the 3x2 intake and hang it on a 4" dropped I beam.) I'd love to hear suggestions, criticism and "rules" we should follow! Thanks for any advice! -Mike dads32.jpg progrees32.jpg 32ingarage.jpg 32engine.jpg dads32.jpg dads32.jpg progrees32.jpg 32ingarage.jpg 32engine.jpg dads32.jpg progrees32.jpg 32ingarage.jpg 32engine.jpg
     
    catdad49 likes this.
  2. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 1,620

    31Apickup
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Keep the original rails, ditch the Mustang II. Run a model A front crossmember with a dropped I beam.



    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  3. This is a traditional hot rod site, trash that mustang II and install a model A cross member and a dropped I beam. HRP
     
    FlyingRN, F&J and WiredSpider like this.
  4. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 12,299

    F&J
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    X2 with what these guys said, and shitcan that rear 4 bar low hanging crap. Put it on a buggy spring, but does not have to be a 32 rear spring. Don't do coilovers either, keep it simple like has been done for decades.

    My 32 daily driver rides sweet with a later 40s rear spring...the wider lengths gets a better ride, but if you wanted wider rear tires than my skinny bias tires, then go with a 40 front spring on the rear. That is not as wide, so it won't rub on wider tires,

    No need to scrap or sell that frame and buy a repro frame. mine was far worse.

    .
     
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  5. trollst
    Joined: Jan 27, 2012
    Posts: 1,191

    trollst
    Member

    Boy those 32's can climb some wicked grades...….
     
  6. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 1,620

    31Apickup
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Depending on your skills, Tom Davis is over at Www. Clarkhotrods.com is over near Daytona Beach. He built me a 32 frame for my A coupe, nice workmanship and good to deal
    With.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    FlyingRN likes this.
  7. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 1,620

    31Apickup
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    FlyingRN likes this.
  8. deucetruck
    Joined: Jan 8, 2010
    Posts: 615

    deucetruck
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Missouri

    Something like this perhaps.
    my 32 sedan project - painted chassis.jpg
     
  9. ^^^^^^^^Perfecto!^^^^^^^^^
     
    FlyingRN likes this.
  10. FlyingRN
    Joined: Oct 10, 2018
    Posts: 9

    FlyingRN

     
  11. FlyingRN
    Joined: Oct 10, 2018
    Posts: 9

    FlyingRN

    Thanks 31Apickup!
     
  12. FlyingRN
    Joined: Oct 10, 2018
    Posts: 9

    FlyingRN

    Did you build that cross member, hairpin mounts, rear spring mount etc?
     
  13. oldstyle1776
    Joined: Jul 30, 2018
    Posts: 3

    oldstyle1776
    Member

    Pick up dropped axle, find some bones to split your self. (Just to say you did it). Keep it simple. Not to crazy about the chevy motor in a ford, but people do it. Get rid of the tilt column for sure. They look like shit in a old car.
    I agree with F&J on the rear end.
    AC? hot rods don't have AC. I don't see palm trees in the pictures.
    Just my opinion though.
    If you have all the parts. bolt it together and drive it as is.
    The most important thing is to get it drivable and enjoy.
     
    56don and FlyingRN like this.
  14. FlyingRN
    Joined: Oct 10, 2018
    Posts: 9

    FlyingRN

    Thanks, btw, love your ride! That stance is perfect!!!
     
  15. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 9,581

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    All of the above and keep the Muncie.
     
    FlyingRN likes this.
  16. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 1,207

    Fordors
    Member

    Hot rods don't have AC? I guess I missed that memo. Dad will enjoy the AC living where you guys do and will no doubt get much more summer driving in if the car has it. Anybody that has ever experienced the oppressiveness of 90*+ temps and high humidity knows what I’m talking about.
    For sure I would put a dropped axle under the car and also I would probably replace the rear four bars. Hanging that low they look like they belong on a hay wagon and with 3-4” below them they will foul the scrub line for sure. You might look into the Pete & Jake’s ladder bar system, it will give better ground clearance.
     
  17. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 13,226

    Squablow
    Member

    Keep the original frame, ditch the 1982 suspension mods. If your dad is able to comfortably operate a clutch, keep the Muncie transmission too. The only way I would sign off on that trans swap and A/C install is if they are a must-have for your dad to be able to drive the car (not sure of your dad's age or health). You might be able to run an unsplit wishbone with the stick trans in the car, which would be a bonus.

    I-beams and buggy springs can work great but proper geometry is the key. I think the reason so many cars got frame stubs and all that crap is too many early builds lacked the proper geometry to make the old suspension work. If you're not comfortable doing it, send the frame out to a shop and have them set up the suspension, then take over again.

    It's a great car with a great story, this is your chance to build it right. The latest and greatest modifications with newer parts always become a fad with time, traditional is forever.
     
    classiccarjack and FlyingRN like this.
  18. FlyingRN
    Joined: Oct 10, 2018
    Posts: 9

    FlyingRN

    Thank you! My dad is 74, and yes, the middle of Florida is hot and humid all the time. I really appreciate all of these comments so far. Any other suggestions for frame people in Florida or the south east, I'd appreciate it. I'll check out the guy in Daytona (Tim I think), tomorrow. Not crazy about dropping 9k on a repop frame, unless thats the best way to make everything fit safely.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  19. aerocolor
    Joined: Oct 7, 2009
    Posts: 1,020

    aerocolor
    Member
    from dayton

    Mine has A/C and a Pete & Jake buggy spring chassis.
    Rides and drives great!
    Almost 90,000 miles on it. 20180616_075816.jpg
    Overdrive auto is a good move too.
     
    47ragtop, 40FORDPU, x77matt and 8 others like this.
  20. scotti32
    Joined: Jul 13, 2009
    Posts: 247

    scotti32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Love that tudor, beautiful
     
  21. deucetruck
    Joined: Jan 8, 2010
    Posts: 615

    deucetruck
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Missouri

    Started with JW Garage framerails. Cross members, hairpins, ladder bars, all mounts, etc. built by Patrick at "New Age Designs" in Washington MO.
     
    FlyingRN likes this.
  22. That rear 4 bar looks like it has the wrong forward mount. If you want to keep the rear 4 bar setup, look into the mount that will weld to the inside of frame. That will get everything up and out of the way, and keep rear at right height.
     
    FlyingRN likes this.
  23. patmanta
    Joined: May 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,024

    patmanta
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Woburn, MA
    1. MASSACHUSETTS HAMB

    Well, at the end of the day, this is your Dad's car and your Dad's dream. I'd advise you to encourage him to go a more traditional route and show him why it's cooler. But whatever he decides, just build it with him and enjoy your time together no matter what.
     
    FlyingRN likes this.
  24. If you do install air go with Vintage air and not some off brand. HRP
     
  25. I more or less had the same decision to make as you and your Dad. You can read about it here. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/holy-crap-i-joined-the-deuce-club.871272/

    Frame under the car when purchased. Notice the strut rods installed forward rather than back!

    FCDC3B1C-6ECC-4470-8FE3-4AB13CA80476.jpeg

    Frame/Drivetrain under it now (as purchased off the HAMB).

    A1447C7E-6A85-4414-826B-143F0E042789.jpeg

    If the frame is solid I’d do as suggested, cut out the Mustang II and replace crossmember and install a dropped I-beam. If the frame is questionable, look for a replacement. I’d watch the classifieds and Craigslist. There are occasionally smoking deals on rolling frames with/without engine and transmission.

    Good luck. Great you’re helping your Dad complete his dream.

    Allan
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2018 at 4:52 PM
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  26. classiccarjack
    Joined: Jun 30, 2009
    Posts: 543

    classiccarjack
    Member

    I second this... If anyone else beat me, then I third this... I have fixed too many Mustang 2 set ups on cars and trucks that are actually "driven" and see country roads and not just easy cruising on paved surfaces...

    Sent from my Moto Z (2) using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    FlyingRN likes this.
  27. classiccarjack
    Joined: Jun 30, 2009
    Posts: 543

    classiccarjack
    Member

    Well put sir!!!

    Sent from my Moto Z (2) using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    FlyingRN likes this.
  28. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 8,468

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    Friend of mine bought a '32 Five window, full fendered and pretty. SBC, (350/350) narrow 9" rear, Mustang II front. Took a short ride in it, the thing rode 'smooth'...but felt like it was 'on the edge' of directional indecision, moreso like we were on two center wheels, and 'teetering'.
    I don't know how HE couldn't feel it, he was driving! Felt like NO caster, and the rear was going to pass us. (like an F100 with the Dodge Diplomat front suspension: the upper control arms are compromised for position; the lowers can't go forward any more, so negative caster makes the truck feel like it's gonna go 'drifting'!)
    I finally talked him into a nice, real dropped axle. He found a '32 heavy, had it dropped 4", Posie spring, and split 'bones.
    NOW he felt the difference. Car drew a small crowd at the local drive in, all the guys that knew (and some that wondered why) gave the old/new axle install a hearty thumbs up.
     
    FlyingRN likes this.
  29. The front end isn't the regular Mustang, rack doesn't mount like that, top towers are different, upper a arm angle looks off. Not knowing what it is, I'd suggest removing it cleanly, and install a dropped axle front.
     
    FlyingRN likes this.
  30. FlyingRN
    Joined: Oct 10, 2018
    Posts: 9

    FlyingRN

    Thanks everyone for all of the responses! Lots of great ideas and suggestions! Have a friend of my dads in Hershey gonna look for some treasures to help us out. General consensus is to ditch the Mustang II, add a Model A cross member w a 4" drop. Probably keeping the Muncie, but AC is a must here in central/southern Florida. I'll post some pictures once I get it back home. (It's currently in Va)

    Sent from my SM-G930V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     

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