Anyone repaired a 'dented' '32 tank ? Is it feasible cost wise to repair or should a guy look for another original or just go for repop tank. The tank is very solid and once cleaned in and out, looks to be usable as is...if a guy could ignore a large dented corner. Would/should a gas tank 'repair shop' fix such tank ?
About the only way to fix it is to open it up,I tried all the tricks I was told and then out of frustration I gave up and purchased a Vintique reproduction. I sold the dented one at the swap meet for almost enough to cover the cost of a new tank. HRP
How about a picture? One man's dimple is another man's dent. Is it small enough to handle with body filler? Charlie Stephens
Definitely not a dimple. My first thought would be to try some of the companies that cut tanks open to clean them. You are definitely going to have to work that from the inside. My second thought following closely behind would be that it might be cheaper to get a new tank. Charlie Stephens
Don't think bondo or lots of buffing will do any good. Lots of work there. Your tank your call, hate to say it but I would go with a new one for the time being and down the road maybe find another tank that's cheap with a good corner then cut and fix.
I do not mean this in a bad way.... I think someone in the trog or "patinas" "barn find" crowd would us it. An original can be found for less than is would coat to repair it. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Ok, well let me ask another question on a possible way to salvage this '32 tank. Anyone have opinion and/or experience on whether I could remove the damaged top on this pictured tank.....and replace it with a donor tank good top ? Can it be done ? If not, why not ?
sure, if you can find a tank rusted out or bent on the bottom. One of the ways to clean the tank is to split it and re-weld it. But again, is it worth it There is one on Ebay for $300 shipped (search "1932-Ford-Original-Gas-Tank-A01-F08".
Here's what I see given I know my ability's. I have also done the cut-n-weld system on a few tanks. I would not do that on a 32 tank. If that was my own personal tank I know I can and would do a total repair from the inside out "Without" cutting it open. That's correct, not a cut anywhere. That's no small task by any means. If a customer brought it to me I would tell them to go buy another, you'd be money ahead. To me it's all in what you have and what you know and do you want to spend the time. The way I read the photo it took a hit more from top down than from the rear. There's only one small sharp crease. I like that kind of stuff just so people can say "I don't believe it" then show them. It's seldom cost effective unless it's a part you'll never replace. Bondo is for beginners and quiters. The Wizzard
… I see your on the west coast, search for a quality Collision Shop they have ways to mount something like this to a jig that has pulling equipment. The better the metal finishing the more it will cost. Initially take some better photos with-out shadows and take it to them for advice. Some shops do not have patience for stuff like this.
A stud gun, slide hammer and patience can take out most of that dent.To make it perfect without lead or plastic you would have to cut an access hole on the bottom of the tank then weld it up after the repair has been made.
As a fabricator That tank would need to be cut opened. The repair made then welded back up and metal finished. But as many indicated. Best to go out and buy another. For me on my dime time I would cut it up and streiten. Just to sharpen my fab skills. Vic
Thanks you guys for all your input ! At least now I have several things to consider. Will check out that ebay tank also. Not a quitter , by a long shot, but know my limits where metal is involved.
And just for full disclosure, I have no metal skills and limited spare time. My advice comes from that perspective. There is also a tank on the DC craigslist with a smaller dent but cheaper than ebay Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I understand the reason most say to cut it open. Once you can work both sides of the damage, getting the damage worked out to metal finish perfection is no big deal. For me, welding the Tank back together and getting the weld seam metal finished to the same quality as the rest of your work, be it a small window or a complete bottom removal can be just as difficult as working out the damage through the 2 factory holes. The Wizzard
'if you can find a tank' rusted out on the bottom...... I know a guy who has exactly what you describe. I looked at that tank. The top is GOOD. However, when I asked about it....he turned it and the bottom is mostly gone. That is why I ask...can a good bottom be mated to a good top. I'm probably less informed/knowledgeable than you about metal work. What about radiator repair shop for this type work ? I'm considering all the other input/suggestions, because I do not want a tank to end up costing a fortune. But, this is a challenge for a beginner,eh ..lol
The 2 factory holes are so small and so far away from the damage that i don't know how helpful they would be. In addition,there are factory baffles inside that tank that would block access to the damage. When i went to autobody school (a million years ago) we were taught to metal finish and also to use fillers properly and for the appropriate repair.I don't believe that using filler "is for quiters" as has been previously stated but i do believe they are generally overused and often used improperly.. In the case of this tank and for the purpose of this discussion i think the most practical repair would , again, involve pulling the dent from the outside very carefully with a stud gun ( before stud guns came into regular use i used to weld 6d nails on the panel with the heads sticking up and pull them with a slide hammer with a V groove attachment to catch the nail head) . After finessing the metal into shape i would use a filler to finish it.Properly done the repair would last forever and the cost in time would be practical. If the tank were for such a high end car that it needed to be perfect i would locate another tank. There are times when a replacement may not be available but there are mint 32 ford tanks out there and ,although expensive,would most likely be cheaper than paying someone that has the skills to repair the damaged one to metal finished perfection without any filler.Of course if you are doing it for yourself , and you think you are up to the challange, cut it open ,do the repair and weld it back up.Pressure testing would be a must.If you screw it up there's always plan B,which is to get another tank.The same option you had from the start. My 2 cents
So I believe the short answer to your basic question is Yes. It can be done and you can probably do it yourself. The Wizzard
I wonder if you made a couple adapters to pressure tank if most of that would pop right out. For safety you could put it behind a wall while inflating and go a little at a time with air. Look at the cheesey contractors air tanks. They hold 100 pounds or more. I think regulator set at 50 would get the job done. Thats 50 pounds on every inch inside the dent. Just thinking I would try...... Sent from my SM-G900P using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Hey Bob, I like some of the positive input and yours is in that category, for sure ! I checked and yeah, the 'good top' tank is available. So, that is one option #3. Fixing or attempting to fix this dented tank is option #1. Never heard or realized the air pressure could be used to straighten a tank..so maybe # 2 Finding someone who would help me out , as a challenge, on this tank, maybe #4 I have a 5 lb can of magical bondo somewhere...so maybe...lol Hey, this is a project to go onto my '30 roadster, which is named the 'ugly duck'..so maybe this tank just fits in. I'm not into 'pretty' , but there is a limit to ugly too, IMO, eh.
Thats 50 Pounds on EVERY square inch of the entire tank. People like to try to push dents out of motorcycle tanks that way. Often they end up with a perfectly preserved dent, on a tank that inflated to something like a balloon... Rember, pressure doesn't just act where damage is, and it doesn't understand what you want it to do. The weakest point will give first, somtimes it's what you want, other times it isn't. Do NOT put air pressure in an empty tank, by the way, if you really want to try it anyway. If a seam or something else starts to crack it will explode and come flying. Fill it completely with liquid, perhaps water, and that can't happen. The garden hose might be more usable than the compressor, water under pressure ready to go.
2 ways I can think of doing it , without cutting it open... Niether very precise .... I like the air pressure idea , but with adding some heat to the dent you could control it slightly by where you put the heat and how much heat used... The other is dicey at best but years ago we used to put water in bent up dirt bike pipes and freeze them , the ice would push the dents out , other times it would split the pipe wide open I think the rest of the tank would give before that dent would though.. If you use a stud gun dent puller I think you may end up with a bunch of little holes ripped in the sheet metal also
All these ideas are getting entertaining. What ever you decide to do make a Video of it and post it up. It will be a good learning experience for all. If your building a less that Show perfect ride maybe the character lines should just stay. Nothing wrong with that. The Wizzard
I'd love to see pics of the inside of one. My tank is near the same as the op. You can see the dent near the filler tube.
Based on how you say you will use your tank, I would get or borrow a stud gun, watch some YouTube videos and learn a new skill. Go for it. When you finish paint a band-aid on it..... LOL
The Jalopy Journal
