My 32 Tudor rides like a cement truck. It has a traditional buggy spring rear suspension with standard shocks but it rides like a buckboard. It is an 8 leaf, @42" spring. I don't want to change it to a four link or coil overs, I want to keep it traditional. Front suspension is fine, it's the rear that is the issue. What can I do to soften the ride and not knock my fillings out when I go over a speed bump. Removing a few leaves has been suggested, any other ideas?
Poise parallel leaf set up.... IMHO Chassis Engineering had the best set up... but they seem to be “Kappoot” ! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The only reason (assuming all links and bushes are in good order) for harsh ride is the stiffness of the springs, not the suspension system. So yes, a softer spring and possibly more compliant shocks too. Look up some of the many threads about softening ride, stiff springs etc. It comes up a lot. Use this at the top of the page:
After Roy passed away the company was in jeopardy of folding but Heidts Hot Rods stepped up and bought the company. HRP
I have a stock '40 Ford spring on the rear of my '32 Roadster that has 6 leafs. I notched the spring to fit into the crossmember. With the shocks disconnected the rear has a very good action when bouncing on the frame. If you disconnect your shocks and push the rear frame up and down you can easily tell if the spring is too stiff. I have also rounded and tapered the spring leaf ends so they don't dig into the one adjacent. Also found that poly spring liner material helps eliminate the friction between the leafs. I becomes a trial and error experiment as there are variables, such as weight, suspension and tires.
Rides like a cement Truck! Lol got hemmroids just reading that. Try removing that 1920 John Deere straight hay wagon axle! Great Thread sure hope you get some solutions nothing worse than riding in a cement truck!
Is it hitting the frame? My sedan rides just fine with a stock spring with only one leaf removed. Until I hit a big enough bump to make it bottom out. If I hit the axle to the frame it jars everyone inside, but mostly the rear passenger. I use 48 Ford rubber bumpers as they are softer than stock 32's. I am actually going to put the removed leaf back in this winter so the spring is a bit stiffer. Then maybe I won't hit bottom so often.
Check the suggestions above. Then check if spring is Veed in the middle so ends are slightly ahead of the middle, an actual '32 spring and not one from a dump truck... Number of leaves needed is in the parts book, mine isn't here...You want original # or maybe one less IF the spring is a real Ford one. Judging from a couple of street rod Model A springs I have around, the leaves are too damn thick on the repros. Next...get out the wire brush and disassemble the spring. 80 years of rust can totally solidify a leaf spring, and if it still moves the rust acts as a super stiff shock absorber. If you are lazy squirt a bunch of thin oil in there, drive, repeat. You'll have a messy driveway but it will loosen up eventually! '32 Fords are NOT inherently rough riding!
The 40 spring I measured is 46” spring hangars at 48 ish , it is possible someone stretched a spring that was too narrow for the perches and it is basically locked up
Thanks for all the feedback. The car was built by a professional shop for the guy I bought it from. Everything under the car is new. American Stamping rails, Ionia crossmember, a Winters quick change rear end. The spring appears to be a repo Model A type spring and with short SoCal shocks. The frame bottoms out on the axle on bumps because there is less then 2" of clearance, more like 1", between the axle and the frame. I've adjusted the shocks up and down but that doesn't help. I'm going to unbolt the shocks and jack the frame up and see if I can get the shackles to flip over and give me more clearance. If that works I will reinstall the shocks in the appropriate location. The shock mounting bracket has 3-4 holes to allow for adjustability
This information would have been most helpful if it was in your first post. How the hell can you expect a decent ride with 1" of travel? I get tired of trying to help people when only 10% of useful information is provided up front. I don't know about anybody else, but I'm not psychic. Facts coming to light in post 13 wastes people's time. BTW, use the search function, this problem has been answered many times.
So with one inch of travel I bet ya it has a good look.. a picture would help and do you have a quick change rearend ? Taking the spring apart and smoothing the ends and greasing them so they slide easy on the other springs help. They also sell teflon spring liners to aid in the springs sliding and resulting in a better ride. This isn’t going to help with one inch of travel.
My '32 pickup, stock frame, stock (four banger) rear end, with the stock spring main leaf reverse eye and several leaves removed rode and sat really nice. I assume they used a Model A style spring to show off that quick change which may be your issue?
Tough group. Here are some photos showing the stance and the shackles. When I said flip them over I meant I'd try to get the spring eye on the high side of the shackle. Have no idea whether that will work but will try it today.
Reversing eyes seems to be the obvious answer here, but if the car was 'set up' for a desirable profile, (rear tire radius in fender!) then the 'C' notch is preferable. Imagine getting your profile just perfect, then realizing you had frame-to-axle interference...on a '32! The 'art' of the 'C' notch is constantly displayed in catalogs of '32 frames. If you order a bare pair of rails, you are given the choice! ('C Notch option') Sorry, Dave...Not an 'attack', but with info available, the shop should have seen this one coming!
Car looks great and sits nice , I believe you have to pull the rear spring . It sounds like it may have too many leafs and main spring need more arc along with the second spring to give you a more travel and softer ride. Playing with the rear spring will be a pain in the A** but will achieve a bettter ride. The frame would be better with a C-notch and give more travel but have to watch the Quickchange on the gas tank and.........
Your setup is almost identical to my tudor except my frame is c-notched. My suspension works very well, rides great & rarely bottoms out. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Neat looking car. There doesn't seem to be much room between the top of the tire and the fenderwell even if you had enough clearance between the frame and the axle. I'm unclear as to whether the tough ride is the bottoming out on the frame or the spring being kinda solid for whatever reason. You should be able to move the frame with the application of some (your)body weight on the rear frame horn, which of course would then soon bottom out if you have only 1" clearance. But if it's pretty solid the initial issue is something else (and no amount of clearance will help, until you need it once you've fixed the locked up part!). If it works on the body weight test you should be set for a comfortable ride. Chris
32 Dave: I've got a Posie 44 inch rolled and tapered reversed eye A spring with 9 leaves under both my deuce roadster and pu with a Winters QC. Both frames are C notched and with the increased travel room they ride very good. I do have short Bell Tech yellow snubbers over each axle to absorb a bump should it occur.