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Hot Rods 32 Ford rearend swap

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by lcfman, Jul 1, 2020.

  1. lcfman
    Joined: Sep 1, 2009
    Posts: 276

    lcfman
    Member
    from tn

    I am into a 32 5 window coupe build. My plan is to build a full fender car with 60's period 28 inch tall tires and a 327 Chevrolet with around 325 hp and 4 speed Muncie. I am thinking about a 8 or 9 inch Ford 4 link coil over rear end setup. I have done some on line research but would like some input on what the best way to go about this. Some of these off the self setups are quite pricey. Comments welcome.
     
  2. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 2,661

    31Apickup
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I’d run a stock style transverse spring with Pete & Jakes style rear ladder bars, a proven setup. A Ford 9” or if you want to be period perfect, an Olds rear.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    Just Gary, X38 and WiredSpider like this.
  3. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,866

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If you want a 60's style car a four-bar and coil overs ain't it. A true 60's car would have big parallel ladder bars and loose coils in big pockets. A more "modern" take on a 60's car would be as 31APickup says, a transverse spring and some Pet&Jake bars. The triangulated bars will give you great support and articulation with almost no bind.
     
  4. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 7,295

    krylon32
    Alliance Vendor
    from Nebraska

    Built lots of 9 inch/ Buggy Spring/ P&J Ladder Bar chassis for customers. Customer feedback over the years is that setup works and rides better than a 4 bar/coil over setup.
     

  5. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 18,133

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Likewise. It looks closer to period, too.
     
  6. el Scotto
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 4,380

    el Scotto
    Member
    from Tracy, CA

    I picked up a ‘32 frame for my roadster project and it retained the original rear spring with the original ‘32 banjo spring hangers welded to a ‘57 Chevy car rearend with some of those UGH-Lee tri five bolt on ladder bars welded on as the suspension devices.

    I’m not saying it was right, just that it was done that way once upon a time...
     
  7. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,640

    55willys
    Member

    On a lightweight car like a model A I prefer to use an 8" mustang or comparable rear end. They are lighter than the 9" and give you a better ride quality due to the car not having to control the inertia of the heavier rear end.
     
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  8. ramblin dan
    Joined: Apr 16, 2018
    Posts: 2,526

    ramblin dan

    When I bought mine someone had put a 10 bolt Chevy under it but I changed to a 57 Ford 9 inch under mine. Fits perfect.
     
  9. lcfman
    Joined: Sep 1, 2009
    Posts: 276

    lcfman
    Member
    from tn

    Thanks for all the good info and replies. Certainly I want to stay as period correct (60's) and I will check into the Pete and Jakes set-up. Currently the chassis is set up with a 60's model Corvette rear end so I will have to remove all that. I tried to make the vette rear end work but I can't get the ride height I want and there is no good way to route the exhaust out the back of the car. That is one concern I have with a different rear end set up that I can get the ride height I want. I plan to run a 5.5 wide 15 inch steel wheel with a 28 inch tall tire with no gap between the fender and tire. That is why I was looking at the coil over set up because it is some what adjustable for ride height.
     
  10. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 7,295

    krylon32
    Alliance Vendor
    from Nebraska

    If it's set up right in the beginning you will have the right ride height. I've never had any complaints about ride height. I make my own rear cross member, P&J 35-40 rear spring hangers, A Posie 40 rear spring with a 44 inch perch width, P&J rear shock mts. and P&J rear ladder bars. Once in a while a customer will remove 1 or 2 upper leaves for better ride on a light car. A proven combination I never had any problems with.
     
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  11. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 2,661

    31Apickup
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Krylon32 has built a lot of chassis’s you can’t lose on his advice.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    Texas Webb likes this.
  12. I used the Pete & Jake ladder bars, a transverse spring and a 9" Ford Bronco rear axle, the Bronco also has 5 1/2" bolt pattern, the same as the 40 Ford front brakes. HRP

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  13. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 7,295

    krylon32
    Alliance Vendor
    from Nebraska

    Third time on this thread and since I'm to dumb to post pictures I'll begin a short description of how I do it. I start with a boxed set of 32 rails on my frame table. When I start the rear I use a piece of 1&1/2 by 3/16 wall square tube which I cut to fit snuggley between the boxing plates. 4 inches from each end I bore a 1 inch hole thru the tube to locate the shock bungs which are 7/16 ID by 1 inch OD Dom tube. I then install the square tube into the frame with the center of the tube 2.5 inches ahead of the center of the rear body mt. hole and the tube to the top of the rails. I level the top of the tube with the main portion of the frame. When mounting the 35-40 rear spring hangers on the housing and using the 44 inch Posie spring I set the housing so the pinion is 2.5 to3 degrees up at the U joint. I set the perches at 44.5 inches on center and the perches are level to the rear cross member. You then need to figure where to install the lower shock mts. so you have a 25-30 degree angle. I make some sort of simple fixture to locate the rear so the center of the rear spring mt.s align with the center of the square tube. I then install the ladder bars putting the rear brackets about 10.5 inches in from the flanged end of the housing and locating the front ends 8-10 inches apart. Finally when I flip the chassis on it's back I locate the spring plate which I have laser cut out of 1/2 inch plate in the center of the tube. I choose to recess the plate flush with the bottom of the tube for maximum lowness. You can just weld the plate to the bottom of the tube which will raise the car 1/2 inch. You will need to C notch the rails for clearance. I'm sure there's lots of different ways to do this. What's described above has been successful for me for many years. I forgot to mention that I use a 56 inch axle flange to axle flange 9 inch rear for most of my chassis.
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2020
    rdscotty, HOTRODPRIMER and pprather like this.

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