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Technical '32 Ford 4dr. Hot Rod project

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by dwollam, Mar 9, 2020.

  1. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,724

    dwollam
    Member

    I also got the F-100 steering box modified and welded on a triangle plate. Tore it all apart and cleaned it up but worm was pitted and chipped and lower bearing and race were bad. Put it back together and ordered a complete rebuild kit with steering column shaft. Got an email saying they are backordered. Man, what times we live in! I'm going to call them and also P&J for the lower steering arms tomorrow and see where I am with parts. Here are a few pics of the steering. I also modified the steering box arm and made a pinch bolt from a shouldered shock bolt. Ground a recessed flat for the bolt head that I shaped. Shortened a tie rod for the drag link.

    Not pictured is the better exhaust manifolds I dug out of my stuff and test fit to the engine today. They replace the one in the pic.

    Like my rebar tie rod?? I really need those dropped steering arms!

    Dave


    20211216_121524.jpg 20211227_164608.jpg 20211227_164619.jpg 20211227_165300.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2022

  2. Take a look at @Mart latest (or was it the previous) vid on his French flathead. He did a cam modification that I think addresses your question (not too much flathead info in my fathead!).
     
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  3. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,724

    dwollam
    Member

    I watched @Mart 's video. He does amazing things! I would have to hire it done so might as well buy a cam.

    Dave
     
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  4. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,724

    dwollam
    Member

    In another thread I was talking about trying to buy P&J 1108D dropped steering arms (old CE part). I was able to talk to Jerry today at P&J and they don't have any and didn't sound like they would be doing any soon or if at all. So... I called Yogi's as they list them and Lo and Behold they had them in stock and I already have a tracking number! Hope after all this that they do what I want them to do.

    Dave
     
  5. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 4,546

    Fortunateson
    Member

    I think that tie rod is actually a Chevy part...
     
  6. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,724

    dwollam
    Member

    The one I shortened? Model A. The rebar? Yep, Chevy! And the other I have is '32 Ford.

    Dave
     
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  7. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,724

    dwollam
    Member

    Ordered a Superbell upper steering arm (slingshot) as well.

    Dave
     
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  8. Just found this thread....Cool project Dave! So does this mean your hemi coupe is "done"?:)
     
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  9. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,724

    dwollam
    Member

    "done" ? What is this word "done" ? I have no concept what that means! Right now I have the w/s out of the '33 Plymouth to install the rubber seal to the w/s frame. What a bitch that is!! The '33 was my dream since 1968 and it is mostly accomplished. The '32 is something I never thought I would be able to own but now I do. The main goal with the '32 is to get it drivable so I can take Jerry for a ride in it while he is still on this earth. He is 85 now and in great health so chances are very good that will happen if I don't screw around.
    Happy New year Scott!

    Dave
     
  10. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,724

    dwollam
    Member

    Got all 48 studs out of the block! Only one of them gave me a real hard time. Upper center on the right side. Had to heat it with a propane torch because it felt like it was going to twist off before it broke loose. The heat was enough to make it came out reasonably easy. Cleaned things up with a wire wheel.

    What's the Ford part number on those cracks from the stud hole to the water jacket?! Matching set of four!

    Dave 20220104_122727.jpg 20220104_122747.jpg 20220103_160238.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2022
  11. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,724

    dwollam
    Member

    Man! Finally got my CE deep drop lower steering arms and they are not enough. :(

    After better measuring I have determined this is a 5" drop axle. It is going to be too low. I am also not finding anything to get the tie rod below the wishbone. I think I will buy a 4" drop from Roadster Supply, the So-Cal forged 70508 48" king pin to kingpin and 36 1/2" perch centers. I'm tired of fighting it. Super nice OG dropped '32 axle that would be great in a fenderless roadster but it's too low for me plus the A crossmember drops me another inch. Think this axle will be for sale.

    Dave
     
  12. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,724

    dwollam
    Member

    I pulled the engine out and got all the rod and main nuts off. That was tough on a stuck engine. Main caps off. 5 rod caps off. Pushed out 1 piston and rod, which looks great! .060 over Ford USA pistons!
    got other things to do for a few days so engine sitting on the cart for a bit.

    Cutting and fitting the front crossmember.

    Kinda got bummed out over the waiting for parts only to have them not work. Bummed about axle too but I will figure another way. It is "Re-designing and building a car" after all!

    Later,
    Dave
     
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  13. oliver westlund
    Joined: Dec 19, 2018
    Posts: 1,342

    oliver westlund
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I know a guy with a fenderless roadster... :)
     
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  14. Great thread with a lot of info. Keep the updates coming.
     
  15. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,724

    dwollam
    Member

    I called Ray at Roadster Supply and ordered the 48" with 4" drop and 2" perch So-Cal 70508 forged axle a few minutes ago. I think this will solve my issues. My beautiful 5" drop '32 axle will go on the next project or hang on the wall pretending to be a '32 grill shell or something!

    I called him Thursday or Friday and turns out he was at the GNRS helping set up. Can't believe he answered the phone while there! He posted on his web page he would be closed but I had spaced that out. Super nice guy! For sure on my list of places to buy from again. Thanks Ray, you are a gentleman.

    Dave
     
  16. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,724

    dwollam
    Member

    Posted this in my other thread about tie rod location.

    Okay! I found a working solution. I switched to some '40 spindles and the '32 tie rod NEARLY fit. I will heat and bend the stock '40 arms up maybe a half inch and the rod will clear. I also modified the Model A crossmember so there is not much chance of it hitting and I think I retained the strength as well. Got the top 6 rivets installed and ground flat too. Side and bottom rivets will come when I take the body back off and flip the frame over. I ground the right spindle top to clear the Lincoln brakes and still need to do the left. Also gotta install new king pin bushings and get those reamed. Here are some before and after pics of the crossmember and the tie rod etc.

    Thanks for all the help guys!

    Dave

    Before: Tie rod way under crossmember when turned.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    After: Lots of clearance to crossmember now!

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  17. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,724

    dwollam
    Member

    Guess I didn't post about the axle situation. I got the 4" axle from Roadster Supply and it is nice. Problem is, as it turns out, my old axle is the exact amount of drop. :( Just 2 inches wider. So, the old axle is going in it after all! I now have almost a total front axle assembly and wishbone for another project.

    Dave
     
  18. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 17,914

    alchemy
    Member

    I'm glad you found a solution. That looks similar to what my sedan has been running for the past 15 years. The only clearance problem I've ever had is a slight paint scrape when it hit the lower pulley. Seems it's only done it once or twice.
     
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  19. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,724

    dwollam
    Member

    Done! Didn't take much bending. Just up a little ways, then drop the tie rod eyes down a bit. All cleaned up and loosely bolted back on so it will roll outside and strip it all back down again so I can finish the rivets and welding and strip the frame to bare metal. I can just slip my index finger in between the tie rod and wishbone on each side.

    Dave

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  20. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,724

    dwollam
    Member

    Finally got the frame all done and painted! Also installed and reamed new king pin bushings. Finally going to be able to start assembly of the chassis for the last time.

    Dave

    20220311_114411.jpg 20220311_114422.jpg 20220311_114432.jpg 20220311_114450.jpg 20220311_172736.jpg
     
  21. Jacksmith
    Joined: Sep 24, 2009
    Posts: 864

    Jacksmith
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Man, that frame came out nice!
     
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  22. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,724

    dwollam
    Member

    @Jacksmith , Thanks, it was a lot of long tedious work!

    Dave
     
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  23. Jacksmith
    Joined: Sep 24, 2009
    Posts: 864

    Jacksmith
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I feel your pain... I'm at the other end of the project on mine... IMG_1006.JPG
     
  24. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,724

    dwollam
    Member

    Got a little more done between prepping and painting my sons circle track mini truck.

    Rear end mostly cleaned and painted along with spring. Front axle assembly mostly done. F100 steering box rebuilt and new flange made and installed and mounted. I did a lot of work on the steering arm to thin it up and made a shouldered bolt and notched the arm for the bolt head to lock against and to keep it out of the fender on tight turns.

    Got the pedals dialed in, just need to sandblast the inside of the bracket, then paint.

    Got the frame webbing on.

    Jerry brought me what he thought were new running boards but it is obvious they were mounted before because of the hogged out bolt holes. We were going to put them on his Vicky but I think the ones he has are as good or better than these. These will be fine on my car as it is not near as nice as his. I'm soaking the brackets in molasses to ease the derusting with wire wheel.

    Rear drums and backing plates will need pulled, cleaned, painted and brakes freshened up.

    The 59ab block is what I hope checks out okay. It was a bear getting the pistons and valves and guides out. They were all very stuck!

    Here are a few pics when I rolled it outside so I could tidy up in the shop.

    Dave

    20220323_121524.jpg 20220323_121539.jpg 20220323_121611.jpg 20220323_121623.jpg 20220323_121640.jpg
     
  25. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,724

    dwollam
    Member

    I didn't get pics while doing it but I got the bottom of the body all prepped and painted it with POR-15. I really like using that underneath and also inside on the floors. Nothing hurts that stuff except the sun and it won't see the sun under there. I take most of my cars on the salt at Bonneville as my daily drivers while camped and the salt rinses right off if any sticks at all.

    So, body is bolted back onto the frame and running boards and rear fenders are installed.

    Today I got some nice plywood gifted to me so I cut out the floorboards this afternoon. Still have to do the routering and grinding on the back sides and sand them all down nicely but I think they will work well.

    Earlier today I ordered a new radiator and also a stainless rear spreader bar.

    Here's a few pics tonight.

    Dave

    20220410_201103.jpg 20220410_201224.jpg 20220410_201345.jpg 20220410_201352.jpg
     
  26. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 28,752

    The37Kid
    Member

    Looks great! I sent you a PM.

    Bob
     
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  27. ESGEE
    Joined: Feb 25, 2013
    Posts: 615

    ESGEE
    Member
    from Sweden

    Just found this tread, will foloow your build
     
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  28. oliver westlund
    Joined: Dec 19, 2018
    Posts: 1,342

    oliver westlund
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Oh wow even more progress than when i saw it last! Im so excited for the day when i can dedicate real time to MY rods. Trying to buy a house, trying to get all customers cars out of here and do a little work on followed by getting rid of the rigs i bought to sell. Its a long list for a guy with no time but im tryin! Need a few sunny days in a row! Love this build man!
     
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  29. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 1,303

    Outback
    Member
    from NE Vic

    Thanks for all the details! It's coming together nicely!
     
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  30. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,724

    dwollam
    Member

    Still working on stuff! Redid the toe board as I think the early firewall is a little different maybe at the pedal area. Also the screw holes don't match what the print outs that are available show.

    Got the firewall painted, along with the pitman arm and drag link. Installed the tunnel with gauges and also a throttle pedal.

    Been stripping the paint and rust off the steering column tube and also the tie rod.

    Here are some pics.

    Dave


    20220421_102726.jpg 20220421_102739.jpg 20220421_102836.jpg 20220421_102949.jpg 20220421_115356.jpg
     

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