Projects 32 Ford 3 window build finish details

Hi Guys & Gals,

We started working on the 32 steering system on my new car. We pretty much have a clean slate.


First we decided to build a strong support system for the column by starting with some 1x1 square tubing. The car has manual steering with a quick ratio Vega box so we want the column to be sturdy.


We dimpled the tube for bending.


Then heated and bent around a socket.


Then bent to shape.



Then a trial fit. This will sit just behind the dash and not be visable. The column drop will attach to this tubing. We will also have another piece of tubing drop down from the primered metal you see here. This will give us a strong 3 point mounting system. We will finish this later.


Next we moved unto steering wheel placement. We tack welded a stud to inside of firewall to hold a mock up steering column made from 1/2 copper tubing.


We then hung the steering wheel on the copper tubing and adjusted it with an adustable strap hung from the roof until we got it in the best position. In this position we were able to;
1) get in and out of the car
2) be comfortable
3) work the pedals
4) see out the windshield
5) have about 2-3 inches between door and steering wheel.

Soooo .....have we missed any thing about steerting wheel placement??? Have you guys learned anything you can share??? or warn us about such as bad angle, wrong look, anything??
Thanks, Greg

 

It looks like a good methodical approach.
What I see that I would check, is the lower column location going through the firewall area..... are you clear of the header or manifold?

 

Back the camera away on some of these pics. The photographer knows the car in person, we can't get a better wide view, IMO

I did see the same first issue like Fedman said. Mine is a 5w so I lost my "bearings" looking at pedals in first pic and the later pic of pedals. 3w is so different as to cowl kick area.

The column up high is great if you can make it get to the box Ok. Footroom for 3 pedal 32's is a premium.

The steering wheel pic is also too close, and having it droop at an angle on skinny pipe can throw us off.

I must say I look forward to your car build on here...hint, hint.. Love the wheel! and it makes me know more good stuff will show up

 

Hi Guys,
Thanks for feedback !!
So far it looks like I have good clearance for some universals where the lower end comes out the firewall. I am probably going to need 3 universals. (Copper tube is just for mock up)


Here are some better photos of steering wheel placment...not much better.... but at least farther back .


This is how it will look through the windshield.


Another side view. And the greatest 32 Ford mouse chaser, Audi, always on duty to make sure I never see mice poop in my new car.


A view from back window.


One final picture. My 3 sons are between 6 feet and 6' 4". I am 5' 11". This seems to be the best placement. Have I missed anything before I cut the fire wall?? F & J you are right pedal real estate is small on these babies!
Thanks for your ideas! Greg

 

At this point in the build I sit in the car with a couple of beers, when I smoked I took them too, if you can sit there for the 30 - 45 minutes it takes to drink two without squirming around better the even odds the driving position is good. That includes gas, clutch, and brake pedal operation as well.

 

Much better pics to see why I was disorientated. I nowbelieve it is your flat firewall, and the slight curved angle floor piece that made me think it was a lot higher where you want to cut the hole. I'd bet it's close to mine, my exit hole seems lower only becauseI still have the lower stock 32 wall that bumps forward where the column hole is


Ford blue blood is so right. Sit there with no family distractions at all. The door closed is needed with the big wheel. The door window opening also helps in mockup. It give a sense of your orientation in the car. You don't want the wheel too close to door , and it's handles.


What he said about not rushing the seat sitting/thinking is so critical,

You are fortunate in that your choice of bellhousing, trans size and it's height will really help in heel room for gas pedal. Heel room and angle of ankle in both directions is very important

Looks great so far ...chop and wheel type...winner

 

I assume that is the size steering wheel you are going to use. 2 or 3" between the door and wheel may be tight with upohlstery when you turn with your left sandwich clamp.

 

FWIW. I think it is too low and to far to the rear. You may have trouble getting in it.

 

Yes I saw that but looking at this one pic....I would not want my wheel rim right in the middle of the windshield "height", by raising it from where he has it.

And, if you look at his copper pipe, the wheel fits loose, so it droops the angle of the wheel rim. I think when the droop is fixed, the gap between seat bottom, and bottom of wheel rim will be much better?


Pics are so deceiving to me, one pic can look OK, then another view looks so different on many builds here.


.

 

I used a lime works drop on my sedan with no brace, just the dash. To be honest I cant remember what length it was. It pretty comfy to drive.

 

Not much better of a photo. It might be a 3" drop.

 

Hi Guys,

My wife is working on her engineering degree and pretty much has the computer tied up most of the time but finally I got back on.

Thanks for all the input!! This is exactly what I really like about the HAMB! Also thanks for nice words about the car.

Well I sat in the car like Ford blue blood said but when I got there I couldn’t remember how long he said or how much beer he said so to err on the safe side I took a 12 pack and sat there for a long time. Actually I woke up the next morning and went into the house and boy was my wife mad!! I told her I was in the garage all night but I don’t think she believes me. But sitting in that car sure is fun. (just kidding I am really a 1 or 2 beer guy)

F & J- I totally forgot about handle and window crank placement. They are going to be close to steering wheel. I really like the steering wheel for 2 reasons; 1) I like the style and 2) it will be good for a non-power steering car because it is so big. However in looking at several hot rod steering wheels it looks like they are mostly 15 inch or smaller and my 58 Chevy one is 17inch. It is gonna be tight!

Andy -Thanks for honest input!. When I move it forward my knees hit the steering wheel before the clutch is all the way out and when I move it up it interferes with vision out windshield. It is a big wheel but I have seen that very same wheel in 32’s in old Hot Rod magazines.

Rusty rocket – Thanks for posting pictures. In looking at pictures on HAMB it looks like most guys mount the column drop to dash. Where you mount the drop on mine has 6 holes already and possible is a little weak in that area so we decided to do the 1x1 brace rather than beef up the dash. This car was chopped prior to 1952 and probably has had many steering wheels and columns over the years. We were trying to think ahead and the 1x1 tubing will also give us something to mount other stuff like a fuse block, heater etc.

Before I started this thread I searched HAMB on steering wheel placement. One thing I found was the suggestion to install the final seat FIRST then put steering wheel in to match. I really thought that was smart but I am not ready for seating job yet.

Thanks again for input!!

Greg

 

Just so you know you dont need a big steering wheel even without power steering. With my small banjo once the car is rolling I can point it in any direction with one finger. You will be fine with your brace but all 32's upper mount were off the dash. Keep us updated.

 

Hello Again,
Thanks rusty I have only driven one 32 Ford and that was 10 years ago. Right now I have horrible arthritis and I find it hard to drive my GTO with manual steering, but that car weighs 3400lbs. Hopefully I can handle the 32 with manual steering like you said.

I worked on the steering today. First I measured the angle of the mock up copper tubing steering column. Ignore the handle for the cowl vent which is right in the center of the picture. I am not much of a photographer.


Then I cut a piece of 1 3/4 cardboard tubing I found laying around at the same angle. This was one step better than the tubing to visualize the column.


Then I removed the inner firewall sheet metal and marked it for a hole.


Then I took a deep breath and cut into it.


Then a little deburring.


Next I reinstalled the inner firewall sheet metal and used it for a template for the outer firewall. I was able to hold the cutter at an angle so the column should fit nicely. Now I just have to decide on which column to use I like the Old School type but they are for 3 bolt and I haven't found an adapter to go from 3 bolt to 11/16-36 spline. I might have to make one. Now with the hole in the firewall I know how long of a column to order.



Now I have a question. This thread will be slow for awhile until I get my new steering column. I am now going to start on the gas pedal. Should I start a new thread for the gas pedal or add it to this one. If I add it to this one I have to change the title. Can that be done? and if so how?
Thanks for the input guys. Please keep it coming!
Greg

 

I believe you can edit the title.

Go to post #1. Click on the bottom where it says EDIT. Now go to bottom of that or somewhere it says MORE OPTIONS I think. Click that.

I think that's how it works

Back to the column placement. I see your shoes won't be anywhere near the column tube at the floor. Nice. I am running first drives with mine, and with 3 pedal and a lower column that yours, I did get hung up once going from gas to brake with work boots on.

 

Ive been hung up a few times with hiking shoes on. My column is stainless so when I hit the brake I make a mental note to have my shoe touching the column, that way I dont touch brake and gas at the same time. I also wear my Chuck Taylors or my Vans since they are a narrow shoe. Geeesh sounds like a fashion blog now!!!!!!

 

I have to wear smaller shoes when driving my Tudor. I have stock pedals and the column is an F-1 so it exits the firewall slightly lower than stock. Probably a few inches lower than the OP's column mockup.

 

I have a pair of expensive "now-vintage" Wingtips, from my wedding in 1975....would that be good?

Nahhh, I like my clumpy work shoes. I'll adapt, with more test drives. lol

.

 

Thanks guys, I changed the title to include other details besides the steering.


Now I am moving on to the gas pedal. As F &J stated above heel room and angle are very important for comfort so I decided to do a practice gas pedal. I will make a mock up pedal so I can adjust and try out comfort and function. Also, I need to get the ratios just right so pedal is not too sensitive or to lazy. Who am I kidding...I will always have the pedal to the floor so maybe it doesn't matter....


First I measured carb travel. It is 1 3/8 idle to WOT.




Then I found some exhaust pipe to make a spoon for the pedal. I cut it out with a angle grinder.



Then a little grinding the spoon to size.



Then a little heating, bending and welding.



Next I took a piece of aluminum to form a bracket on my trusty anvil. Clearly that anvil has seen better days but it still works.




A little drilling in the bracket and using some self-piercing screws and it is ready to go.





Finally installed in the car. Later I will add a return spring. The rod is only 1/4 inch so I can bend and adjust to get it in the best location, angle ect. This is only a mock up pedal the final pedal will be stronger. any suggestions on pedal placement?
Greg

 

Great project!
A 15" Impala style wheel is available. That's likely what I'll be installing on mine.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/15-Inch-Impala-Style-Steering-Wheel,58574.html

 

"This is only a mock up pedal the final pedal will be stronger. any suggestions on pedal placement?"

Glad you said mockup only, because as you know, the horizontal center gas pedal pivot shaft needs to have a nice bushing, and wide enough to prevent later erratic slop.

You really should put dummy pedal pads, even though it sure looks like the brake one won't be close enough anyways.

When I said I had but one "foot hangup" on my fresh build road testing; here is what happened:

My nervous second ride, being rushed to get off busy road and cross traffic to side road, I swung right foot to find brake, my toe end hit the column, so I too quickly moved my foot to the right again, misjudged location and mashed brake WITH the gas. Hasn't happened since, it was a freak event.

Was it poor planning on my part? not really, as the big extended block engine comesa bit into the toe board, which almost eliminates a proper gas pedal placement. I could not move the column higher at floor, as the head would be hitting,


I see your well used,beat up tools.......this will be a fabrication type build that MANY people like

.

 

Chuck Taylors...Wingtips.. when this car is done I hope to be able to afford flip flops....

Do the clutch and brake pedal pads have to be centered on the levers? Or can you offset them without it looking funny? Not sure I will do this but I am considering offsetting them.

I am planning on doing a hump over the trans/bellhousing. I really like to rest my gas pedal foot on something.

Thanks for input!

 

Do whatever makes the car more user friendly. I know I've worked on stock antique cars that did have offset pads..

On mine with a bigger tunnel than yours, and a lower column exit, I ran out of room for 3 pedals.

I wanted a hinged gas pedal. I tried a spoon and it just wouldn't work on mine. That was when I had these pedal pads mounted horizontally. I then found a aftermarket strange shape gas pedal for the mid 1950s VW bug that only had a roller wheel for a gas pedal

Look at the perfect shapes on that; it's notched near the tunnel side, yet has a bump-over on the brake pedal side.

Then I cut the clutch and brake pedal pads off, and welded them on vertically. Made a huge difference on my car.

 

I know it is expensive but look at the so-cal spoon pedal. you can mount the pedal or arm on either side of the firewall bracket. I used an alum. spoon from speedway and its so-so.

 

The spoon these guys have is sturdy, nice bushing, and steel so you can change it and re-chrome if desired.
http://www.controlcables.com/

 

You might want to add in the windshield frame; it will make the opening a bit smaller for your line of sight, and what is manageable right now, may make you tip your head lower once the windshield is in.

 

HD 59 Inpala on my coupe. Looked like a million bucks. But driving was not real good. Easy to steer but because of it size it made oversteer. Going down the road I was looking like a drunk. Weaving side to side. Went to a smaller wheel

 

Thanks for the input guys!!
I spent some time on the phone today and narrowed my search for a steering column down to the ididit column. I called Limeworks but their new Chevy one is too long, the Flaming River is also too long unless I special order, so is the Borgerson too long. The ididit offers a 28 inch length with a 3/4-36 at the bottom and 11/16-36 at the top and 28 inches long. It is 1 3/4 diameter so not too fat. All the "old School" columns have 3 bolt steering wheel mounting or I would have used one of them. So I started thinking about my car. If it is a standard 32 Ford 3 window coupe with a normal chop why I am having so few options for a steering column?? It has really made me think about the seat I have in it. Right now it has the original seat but with worn springs on the drivers side. I started to shop around for a new seat and decided to order a Glide Seat and install the new seat before I go any further with the steering wheel placement. The glide seat will be lower and I am sure a little different than the original seat. So that's my plan!!!

So I moved unto the transmission tunnel. The good news is one of my son's works evenings in a sheet metal shop and is allowed to do side jobs after hours. The bad news is because of this I have accumulated almost no sheet metal tools at home. So I did a mock up using thin aluminum flashing. I spent an hour looking at pre-made trans tunnels but nothing looked like it would work.

First I cut and bend


Then install with tape


Then trim and fit, trim and fit...... and some more trim and fit......


Finally something close. The top piece is missing in this photo. I can now copy these out of sheet metal.
It looks like I will not get anything to rest my foot on while it is on the gas pedal. Oh well!

 

Install a foot pad like Henry did in your coupe from the factory. You can screw it to the trans cover and adjust the height as well to fit your feet. Repros and fancy aluminum ones are available.

I have a stock one in my Tudor and it would be horrible to drive without it.

 

alchemy - can you post a picture? I just looked pedal pads up. I guess I will look stupid now but I thought that was a starter button that you push to activate starter. Or are we talking about 2 different things?
Thanks Greg