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Projects '32 chassis build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by the pinstriper, Jan 7, 2020.

  1. the pinstriper
    Joined: Jun 2, 2011
    Posts: 248

    the pinstriper
    Member
    from duxford UK

    I have been pretty busy recently making a fixture to reproduce stock '32 chassis for a customer, the plan is to run 3 chassis off to get the ball rolling. We started out with a nice original chassis which we had 3D scanned, to serve a couple of purposes 1- to ensure the chassis we start with is as good as we thought it was, and 2- to use the data to develop some additional parts the customer asked for. I shall add photos of this aspect of the build once we have our prototype dialled in.

    With the fixture finished, over the tail end of 2019 I got the first set of rails repaired in order to start the first build and learn my way around the job a little better. Everything on this job was a first for me, from building a fixture, to not knowing my way around the chassis to setting rivets.


    The first job was getting the rails looking decent before putting the chassis together with the nice original cross members. Its fair to say the original owner of these should step away from the grinder, drill and welder as they had made a right hash of modifying these to suit what ever they was building. Holes in the wrong places multiple times, hashing lumps out of the rear of the rails and managing to slightly cave the front sides of the rails in I guess when prying out the spring cut outs.

    [​IMG]1 by joe curtis, on Flickr


    [​IMG]3
    by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]2 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]6 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]7 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]9 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]23 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]4 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]10 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]11 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]12 by joe curtis, on Flickr


    Once the rear flat sections were welded and blended, I took a template off of the stock chassis we have to get a condor of the arc in the rear of the rails. Both to mark the cut out and to roll and from the bottom section of the rail with out having to develop a blank size and room to suit. This way I can form the tape I need and cut down to suit each rail.

    [​IMG]14 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]13 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]16 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]15 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]17 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    I left a good size gap to fill here, so I can clean the weld back opposed to grinding the new material back to form the radius to mimic the stock shape. I put a fillet in the rear of the rails to blend out there also.

    [​IMG]18 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]19 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]20 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]21 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]24 by joe curtis, on Flickr
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2020
  2. the pinstriper
    Joined: Jun 2, 2011
    Posts: 248

    the pinstriper
    Member
    from duxford UK

    Onto the cross members, the stock rivet holes were welded and blended off, pilot drilled and ready to go into the fixture. I was a little back and forth to start with regarding the holes up which werent out of shape, in the end pretty much most stock holes got welded back up, I did how ever miss a couple in the K member which I had to measure out and drill from the rails into the member. Nothing to complex but just slows the process down if your having to try measure stuff out all the time. I shall ry and photograph these a little better next time.

    [​IMG]1-2 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]2-2 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]5 by joe curtis, on Flickr
     
  3. the pinstriper
    Joined: Jun 2, 2011
    Posts: 248

    the pinstriper
    Member
    from duxford UK

    Loading the members into there machined sections on the fixture- everything is located on counter sunk bolts for repeatability and the best locations to start with. i stupidly didn't take many photos of the making of the idividual parts of the fixture so I shall grab some once the table is empty if anyones interetsed.

    [​IMG]1 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]9 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]10 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]4 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]5 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    Setting the rivets with a X4 gun, and a simple jack assembly in the rear. Theres a real art to setting these, I was shocked how much the rivet can move when you start driving them in, plus how much material is needed on the stick out to form. When I do the next chassis I shall try and get a video of setting these now im a little more dialled in. The alloy block was swapped over to a steel lump, as the jack just gets pushed into the alloy, you have to get pretty inventive with chocking bits up in some places, and taking time to really nip these jacks out super tight. When you drive the rivet in the first time and the jack falls out its pretty soul destroying to set it all back up once the jack has cooled back down again.

    [​IMG]7 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]8 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]9 by joe curtis, on Flickr
     
    bct, alfin32, CobraJoe and 13 others like this.
  4. the pinstriper
    Joined: Jun 2, 2011
    Posts: 248

    the pinstriper
    Member
    from duxford UK

    WIth the "easy" rivets set in the rear, I had to get a little inventive with tooling to drive the rivets that sit on the outside of the rails. The tooling can be used for all 3 positions and from side to side buy swapping the rivet seating bolt and the jacking bolts from side to side of the plate, plus the rivet seat bolt from hole to hole. Its a complete fuckery to get all of the blocks in place to jack off of the chassis whilst maintaining a decent seat on the rivet itself.

    [​IMG]11 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]10 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]14 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]20 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]22 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]17 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    Front and K member set with flush rivets, prior to flushing the tops off. The legs on the K to the chassis set with the smaller 1/4" rivets, these are great fun to blast in after seeing the bigger 5/16th rivets. Once set i simple drilled through the K to the rails to get the stock through holes, the customer wanted stock holes added for the front and rear shocks and fender mounts.

    [​IMG]12 by joe curtis, on Flickr


    [​IMG]3 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]23 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]new 1 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    Finally the stock steering box location, taken off of the stock chassis I made the fixture around. Simple pilot drill jig from the plate to the chassis, before being unbolted from the table and drilled out to the correct size.

    [​IMG]16 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]18 by joe curtis, on Flickr

    [​IMG]19 by joe curtis, on Flickr
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2020

  5. the pinstriper
    Joined: Jun 2, 2011
    Posts: 248

    the pinstriper
    Member
    from duxford UK

  6. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 2,269

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    Very nice work!!! You should change your handle to the "jig master". You have a beautiful shop also.
     
    rpm56, Stogy, the pinstriper and 2 others like this.
  7. Looks killer.
    Did the rear of the rails draw in or move when the notch was repaired?
    Just wondering cause I have had em move when adding the notch even in a jig.
    Great work.
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2020
  8. Very nice work.
    Al.
     
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  9. Pete Eastwood
    Joined: Jul 27, 2011
    Posts: 1,324

    Pete Eastwood
    Member
    from california

    Those notch repairs will cause the horns to pull down, It's good to double check .
     
  10. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,454

    oj
    Member

    TopShelf craftsmanship, is that a Trump CN701 I spied in the background? I have one myself, sweet machines.
     
    Stogy, the pinstriper and Just Gary like this.
  11. brady1929
    Joined: Sep 30, 2006
    Posts: 9,253

    brady1929
    Member

    Great job.
     
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  12. Too cool...
     
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  13. scotti32
    Joined: Jul 13, 2009
    Posts: 284

    scotti32
    Member

    beautiful work
     
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  14. Chief 64
    Joined: Dec 10, 2010
    Posts: 249

    Chief 64
    Member

    Your fab skills are outstanding! I wish you lived in Michigan, I will be following your thread, thanks for posting.
     
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  15. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 5,331

    Fortunateson
    Member

    Very good craftsmanship and excellent pics to document.
     
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  16. Dak Rat
    Joined: Mar 8, 2006
    Posts: 547

    Dak Rat
    Member
    from NoDak

    Very impressive work Sir!
     
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  17. hotcoupe
    Joined: Oct 3, 2007
    Posts: 588

    hotcoupe
    Member

    Thanx for posting, first class workmanship! Will you post a detailed procedure of the riveting process.
    Tom
     
  18. Pewsplace
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,795

    Pewsplace
    Member

    Nice work on the rails. The jig is different than most and very sturdy.
     
  19. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,947

    treb11
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

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  20. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,404

    alchemy
    Member

    Are you going to put the cowl band dimple into those repro rails?
     
    Stogy, the pinstriper, X38 and 2 others like this.
  21. Malcolm
    Joined: Feb 9, 2006
    Posts: 8,032

    Malcolm
    Member
    from Nebraska

    Wow, very nice!! I'm looking forward to seeing your work on the next two chassis.
     
  22. 303racer
    Joined: Aug 23, 2006
    Posts: 563

    303racer
    Member

    Top notch work
     
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  23. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 5,372

    Fordors
    Member

    Wow, for a guy whose screen name is @the pinstriper your metal skills are superb too. Nice work!
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2020
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  24. Nova Thug
    Joined: Jun 9, 2012
    Posts: 185

    Nova Thug
    Member
    from SG Vizzle

    Phenomenal..!
     
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  25. rustednutz
    Joined: Nov 20, 2010
    Posts: 1,580

    rustednutz
    Member
    from tulsa, ok

    Wow! Great skills on display!
     
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  26. Great work!
     
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  27. continentaljohn
    Joined: Jul 24, 2002
    Posts: 5,504

    continentaljohn
    Member

    Great to see a true Craftsman awesome job
     
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  28. WB69
    Joined: Dec 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,958

    WB69
    Member
    from Kansas

    Good looking work.
     
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  29. Beanscoot
    Joined: May 14, 2008
    Posts: 3,053

    Beanscoot
    Member

    Nice to see clean, smooth holes, nicely chamfered too.

    [​IMG]
     
  30. the pinstriper
    Joined: Jun 2, 2011
    Posts: 248

    the pinstriper
    Member
    from duxford UK

    Not at the rear no, I general over tack everything I do and move along in small stages. Im unsure if this general helps with a job like this but I take the same approach when making something from scratch too. The rails fitted into the fixture the same both before and after the repairs.


    One did, which I had to cut and move accordingly. I referenced from the fixture the top of the rail to the centre of the bolt holes for the shocks- from the original chassis onto the new rails. Which set my positions to clamp everything up to the fixture before setting the second time.

    good eyes fellow machine pervert! this is how ever a PELS asg-3, basically the same thing though.

    thans for the kind words Tom, I have finished the second chassis and have taken a more detailed approach to my set up, and riveting progress. there shall be a new update in a couple hours once I finish writing it all up. I hope this helps you in your projects. There is a short video to come at some stage in the coming weeks also so please check back.

    the coupe is my own project so that naturally takes a back shelf, will be starting with rust repair before moving onto a roof chop. I shall post a build thread for that once I get there. thanks for the interest.

    not in these chassis no, it is something we are wanting to expand to, to try make the chassis as original as possible.

    I created my user many many years ago when I was heavily into my painting. Metal took over at some stage, I really should message an admin to see if I can have my name changed

    thanks, know one likes a half finished job, or to get cut when installing parts. You clearly have a very good eye for details Sir


    Massive thank you to all that have posted kind messages,

    thanks Joe
     

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