The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Hamtown Al, Apr 22, 2018.
Just found this thread - what a great read. Thanks for sharing.
The good news is I got the radiator. The bad news is it doesn't fit... too short!
I've sent an email requesting help. We'll see how that goes.
You can see my shoe above the new radiator behind the radiator shell.
Dang! You can find everything on-line they say. I'm getting close to saying something else!
Look at the ad again. It should have the word "chopped" somewhere...and likely is 3" I ran into the many repro differences when searching ebay for 32 radiators.
Realizing the seller can dance with me for weeks before finally resolving the issue, I just requested a refund as it doesn't fit. I ordered another radiator from a different vendor and it should be here next Monday.
I saw the chopped radiators advertisers and was careful to avoid that but they got me when I believed them when they said it fit a 1932 Ford and didn't mention anything else. With the new guys, I carefully checked their ad as well and checked their measurements versus my needs and I hope I got a good match. I'll know next Monday. The old guys might respond by that time. It is interesting that I found a note in the packing for the radiator that indicates that the radiator I got has already been returned at least once... I even got their email address. I sent them an email to see for sure. Radiator looks ok but just doesn't fit.
I'll save y'all the details of the second radiator experience wherein they sent a radiator smaller than advertised and now want me to pay shipping to return it! The third radiator, from the third vendor, should be correct and will arrive this coming week... I hope!
In the meantime I have pulled the engine again and made minor tweaks to the crossmember and started preparing the firewall for cleanup. I also reworked the chain mounts for the backside of the engine and relocated one bolt from back of head to exhaust manifold. I think I got the chains rebalanced such that the engine lifts fairly level.
I also added the provided spacer and indexed the new mini-starter and installed it.
It sure looks small compared to the original.
I also got the dash panel lights wired and prewired as many gauges as possible with short leads that should make installation much easier.
I also managed to find an adaptor that will allow me to use the same manual temperature sending unit used in the 4 banger in the Buick engine as well... I hope! (Line to sending unit might be too short!)
I've got chassis marked correctly I believe for the engine crossmember and might weld that in. I've been holding off to make sure firewall and radiator clearance are okay. I did test the latest location with the old radiator and used the original radiator support rods to make sure we had clearance for the radiator and it looked good. I even set a new radiator in approximate mounting location using same process and still looked on the money.
Well, I've tried three supposedly different vendors on ebay and they all sent me a radiator that did not match the advertised dimensions so did not fit.
Maybe I should look into air cooled?
Damn! That's a real pain in the ass, Al.
Just for giggles they make a different transmission modulater for the 400 trans which I am sure you know. It is a lot smaller than the original. The original I believe is an altitude compensating.
Nice work Al.
Hey Al any transmission/ NAPA/ Amazon has the smaller modulater they are not expensive maybe $20.Its for a turbo 400.
^^^ Now you tell me!!
Y'all know by now that I am a dummy at times!
Please share the info on the much smaller modulator as I will likely replace it anyway.
Thanks greatly for sharing your knowledge.
Now, to the part numbers and source...
Did you try Walker? I've found them to be pretty good, pricey though.
Walker and Griffin are the usual go to guys and I usually buy Griffin for weight savings, etc. and they are pricey.
These ebay guys are couple hundred dollars... figured I'd at least look. They actually look pretty good and I'm going to have my radiator guy test one... if I can ever get the right size!!
I'm afraid I'm wasting my time but I'm in no great rush and have plenty others to drive. With the weather of late; all my toys are staying in the garage!
I took u bolts off to check the frame for any cracks and it looks good. I also realized that the chassis has been painted at least three different colors. It was silver, then red, and lastly black.
Everybody knows what this part number is... right?
Maybe this second picture from another angle will refresh you memory.
One of the u bolts was pretty worn so went looking for replacements.
Found them hanging on the wall at Tractor Supply.. Y'all might want to remember that. $16 and no shipping!
4th radiator attempt is arriving Wednesday... from Jegs!! Hopefully it will be correct.
nice way to spend the evening reading this.loved marts comment (225)got ask about steering wheel colour was it wrapped at one time?strange design looking forward to more
Radiator from Jegs looks good.
Tricky part is going to be locating just where to drill holes to mount to chassis.
I measured my hood side and it is longer at top than at bottom!
No pictures yet but cleaned and painted part of the chassis. Want to get all welding done before working on making pretty.
Finally, what an ordeal just for the right radiator! A little radiator black and you should be good to go or, at least, on to the next task. Almost there, Keep the Faith.
The chassis cleaned up some and you can see the engine crossmember waiting for final location.
Ta-da!! Final location established.. with a welder! There was a lot of discussion and calculations and recalculations in determining exactly where to locate the engine crossmember.
And the engine ended up exactly where I wanted it! You are looking down at the distance between the back of the head on the driver's side and the firewall... about 3/8 of an inch.
I'd rather be lucky than good any day!
Now we're working on the transmission crossmember. Looks like it will be real simple but you know how that goes sometimes. Also continuing work on revamping the radiator support rods... the original 1932 rods are too short with the new radiator. However, it looks like the pair of 1936 radiator support rods I just happened to have laying around; might be just right after trimming the ends a bit. Cross your fingers.
Also close enough now to start figuring what length driveshaft will be needed.
Transmission crossmember completed and installed. New driveshaft length calculated to be 32 3/8" center to center. The old one was 30" even. Too late for trip to driveshaft fellows. First day in a long while that I have worked on the car and I haven't either installed or removed the engine; or both!
Getting closer day by day.
Beginning to layout my usual homemade wiring panel. One panel will be hot all the time and the other will be energized by the relay triggered by the ignition switch. The horn relay might get relocated as the wire to trigger the horn is at the end of the steering column. Might make more sense to move it closer to that area as there is a 12 volt source in the same area on the starter... opportunities! I need to get hot on getting that firewall squared away.
I hinged this same basic layout on the 36 Fordy so it dropped down for better access but the 32 seems to have a spot where the clutch used to be that looks like a possible location and should be quite accessible.
After working on the firewall indention, I decided to see what I could come up with to attach the radiator cap to the radiator shell as the stock cap will no longer have a radiator neck in that area.
I thought it would look good to have a black rubber spacer between the cap and the top of the radiator shell so I went to the hardware store with intentions of buying a sheet of rubber and making something to approximate my needs.
I couldn't find the sheet rubber but in my looking I saw some gaskets for use with sinks and toilet bowls, etc..
Some measuring and research among the many available resulted in two that might fit the bill.
One clearly would work better than the other.
The used sanding disc will secure the bottom after I revamped the side toward the engine so would fit flat from underneath.
This shows how well the gasket fit the underside of the radiator cap.
The gasket was a bit to large for the opening.
My scissors helped me adjust it to fit. I made it quite tight.
Here is the cap just sitting on the gasket.
This is the original cap. You can't see the thick large washer under the thick rubber.
This is the new plan. The 1.5" 5/16 bolt in the picture had to be replaced with a 1.25" long bolt. Note that I am using the big washer from the original cap... just moved it.
Here it is after I bolted it down. Probably need to go back and add some Loctite.
Works for me. Cost me almost $3 including tax!
Saw another thread on this today.
Seems alchemy is right. Another opportunity.
Fellows... my car is a custom!!
It faced that way when I got it. I'm sure the Buick will easily overcome the added wind resistance!
Can't get nutin by ya!
Planning on using the same type of fuse panels wired the same way you’re going to do it. I am going to keep an eye on how this works out.
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I took the driveshaft to that shop... hope to have it this week.
This is the old floor panel that was in the cabriolet. I thought it was neat that the original builder had used a 1936 Ford battery cover... was he a 1936 Ford guy, too?!
Here is the new floor my main metal fabricator made up for me and I fitted and temporarily installed to ensure it fits. It still will need some additional items to secure the seats and also add a battery cut-off switch. The battery is being relocated to the trunk area so the old 1936 battery cover can be hung on the wall.
As I look at the old floor and the many holes, I can't help but wonder about the many changes to the car that took place over the 54 years the original builder owned and drove the car. I figure he bought the car when he was about 19 years old (May 5, 1942) and still had it when he passed in January of 1996. For a number of reasons, most of us do not get to have that long of an uninterrupted history with the same car. I know that some on this board have that long a history with the same car and more and I commend each of you. My closest parallel is about 33 years thus far with a certain yellow 39 Chevy coupe originally built by Mike Wiley in Roanoke Rapids, NC. All these many years later and I still feel honored to have gotten to take over custody of Mike's car. I've made a few changes to it over the years, but compared to what he did to it; I just tell folks that I wash the car.
I fitted the wiring panel base to the firewall.
Here's the revised layout with the horn relay at the bottom likely getting relocated off the panel.
Here it is on the bench with the components secured to the mounting plate.
Here it is located on the firewall. A washer and nut will secure it and I'll also add another screw to make certain it doesn't move.
.............That's for sure.
Man those boxes make for a nice clean installation.
Minor update on the wiring panel:
It is the same simple panel I have made and used on a number of hot rods.
The main hot lead will come from the starter to the terminal at the top of the bottom panel.
The bottom panel will be hot all the time unless the battery cut-off switch is off.
Power from the power terminal goes to the relay "power in" terminal via the bottom 10 GA wire.
Power goes from the relay on the "power out" terminal via the top 10 GA wire and that wire powers the whole panel at the top. You also see a black "ground" wire for the relay that goes down to the bolt that holds the panel to the firewall and also serves as a ground. Not shown is the fourth wire which will be 14 GA from the ignition switch that will energize the relay and put power to the top panel when the ignition is turned on.
The bottom panel will power things like lights, brake light switch, flashers, horn, etc.
The top panel will power wipers, radio, air conditioner(I wish!), etc.
Pick an outboard terminal and run a wire to whatever needs juice; insert appropriate size blade fuse in the box and you are done. There are 10 outputs from each panel. The ones I used to buy at Advance for about $10 each only had 6 outputs. Advance now wants big $$ for that same panel! I found these on-line for about $12 each and they have optional plastic covers which the Advance panels did not have.
Yesterday I picked up the completed driveshaft and painted it. Didn't think about a picture. Sorry. Y'all know what they look like. One interesting note is that the driveshaft guy said the yoke going into the transmission on the switch pitch transmission was different, he thought, than a standard turbo 400 trans. I don't know.
I also shortened the 1936 Ford radiator support rods to work with the new radiator for the 32 cabriolet.
BTW, I had the driveshaft about halfway installed when I realized I was getting ahead of myself as the engine has to come back out to finish the firewall and crossmember.
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