I'm not the sharpest tack in the box but how did you bend the rear of the frame up behind the c notch without modifying the rear floor? Did you have that much gap between the floor and the frame?
The rear frame horns must have sucked down when we c-notched it, as it was too far down. I looked at several original 5 windows when I was at LARS and they were much tighter than how my tank fit to the body. So I just returned it to how it should have been from the factory. Here's a couple of pics of Kennedy Bros 5w for reference. Mine fits very similar to this now And mine after bending the frame horns up
That made me laugh! But see @NealinCA didn't deny it haha Seriously though, it's so good seeing this attention to detail.
I will preface this saying that I am not a gauge collector. Early SW gauges have always been out of my price bracket, but I stumbled upon most of a set one at a time through swapmeets and estate sales. I Just located a pair of the correct era SW mechanical temp gauges. 1956-ish big block logo, curved glass to replace the flat glass electric temp gauges. This will complete the quest for a set of curved glass 2-1/16 gauges, which incidently set the hypothetical build date for this whole car.
As has been a prior topic, those early 32 rails were prone to flexing over the axle, particularly with a full fuel tank, & who knows what junk was in the trunk over the years, then of course the optional rear mount spare tire, luggage rack, rumble seat (with the mother in-law along for a ride) & the roads less traveled of the day I'm sure were all contributing factors for the late year frame reinforcements.
Got the trunk latched, picked up the clear Cerakoted polished aluminum parts for the engine and mixed up a light purple for the engine. Dropped the engine off with a friend who's gonna prime and paint it this week. Also plan to assemble the transmission this week. 99 days until we leave for The Gathering at the Roc. I added in the reinforcing plate for the trunk support arm The lower catch had to be bent some and I re-located the upper bolt hole in the gutter to get the latch to catch With the new deck lid, there was no hole for the handle. I did have an original latch assembly, so I screwed that into the decklid and used that as a guide for a drill bit through the square hole to punch a hole through the outer skin. I then used a step drill to get it to size and filed the notch to index the handle and to keep the base from turning Since all that will end up painted is the block (everything else is polished or plated) I sealed the engine up with and a temporary pan, timing cover, heads and water pump block off plates
Such a cool build! Not sure how you are working in this heat today! I am up in Paso Robles for work and it is a hot one compared to the southern part of the 805.
I love this thread. One guy spending countless hours on details people may or may not see. That's the difference between a real builder and an amateur.
It's going together in bare metal for now, but there will be a few purple pieces to give the vibe. Paint is not in the budget this year, so I hope to work out the kinks and blow it apart next year for paint and upholstery. I don't know about "real builder", but it may be a guy with OCD... When a friend saw the pic of chrome rear mount, he told me, "I said to myself, this man is insane". He might be right.
Why do I think your conversations with your chrome shop might sound like a junkie trying to get his next fix?! The term “All In” is so appropriate! Looks killer!
I follow this thread with so much interest. This has got to be the most well thought out, pro executed, period build I've ever seen. To see the steps in it coming together is a true inspiration. Neal, you are taking the hobby to a whole other level...I applaud you sir. Can't wait for more posts.
I noticed the sealed bearing on the trans output. Do you have experience using these? Does the U joint stay lubed?
We have been using those bearings for quite a few years. We pop out the inside seal so the bearing is lubricated by the transmission. Then use the urethane clam shell seal and pump the u-joint cavity full of cornhead grease. Seems to work fine.
The Jalopy Journal
