Hello all, I got a 1931 5window coupe a few months back and just recently picked up a set of axles from a 1946 ford 2 door convertible. I want to put juice brakes on the model a and make it stop a little safer. The 46 brakes are all rebuilt with all new stuff. Now my question is should I just do full axle swap front and rear or should I just remove the brakes and swap them out? If I just swapped the brakes out is there anything special I need to do? I know swapping axles would be a lot of work and dont think the torque tube would match up? Im running the original flat 4 and trans. thanks josh
I'd just swap the brakes. There's a spacer kit to adapt the backing plates and hubs to the spindles, the rears will need the backing plates clocked a bit to clear the spring perches. Then you need to figure out a master cylinder/pedal arrangement.
adapters? no. In the front change the spindles backing plates hubs and drums then use the tie rod from the 46. It worked for me. then get a front stearing hoop that attaches to the spindle and a taper to ball adapter. In the back you must rotate the backing plates from a 12 o clock position to about 10 o clock, then redrill the holes.then take your 46 rear hubs to a place that machines drums and they can grind off the inner lip of the drum wear itll rub the backing plate, or grind the backing plate. its about an eighth to quater. then install. then i put my master cylinder on the other side and built a mount and rod off the mechanical equalizer. Do a search this has been covered a million times.
I just did this swap last summer. Swapping the spindles is easier than using the adaptor kit,and redrilling the mounting holes(they should be filled first). On the rear drums you may need to cut the lip on the backing plate as well as the drum for clearence. I did both and still had contact between the two. There is also a shim avalable for the axle taper thats helps this clearence problem as well. The 46 parking brake cable will hook right up to the model A cross shaft,with just a fabricated "U" clip. Detailed plans were found on the internet with a Google search.
ok, so the front brakes will all be 46 brakes from the kingpin out, and the rear keeps the model a hubs but gets the 46 backing plates and drums. I did search and saw that the rear holes need to be filled and redrilled.then grind or turn down the clearance on the backingplate n drum lip
No,you use the 46 rear hub/drum assy. Sometimes you need to either grind a bit off the rear spring perch or a small nocth in the backing plate. A trial fit will show you whats needed.
i have '46/'48 on my '31 coupe. the rear bolt right on, with a little notching of the backing plate. and maybe a model a rear axle shim. from any model a supplier. for peanuts. the rear drums will need to be turned in or they will rub the backing plate, about a 1/16". the front i opened up the backing plate holes to fit the model a spindel. then when i bolted them on i used a flat washer on the inside of the b/plate. when tight i tacked the washers in place with a mig welder. so no need to fill the holes and redrill them. the holes are just slightly off from model a to '46/'48 and no changeing of king-pins for the '37/'48 spindel. or paying for them either. i removed the battery and placed it behind my side of the seat. thats were i put the master cyl. i cut the little clevis pin pull off the b/pedal that pulled the mech. brakes, and welded it to the bottom of the b/pedal, to push in the m/cyl. make sure u cut it very short, or your math will be wrong to work the m/cyl. i made that mistake. i have photos of my pedal ass. in mock-up. the weld is only mock-up on the push-rod. JAN.
If I use the spacer kit for the rear do I still need to have the lip ground down on the backing plates and drums? I think it would be cheaper to get the $20 kit then pay a shop to turn them down
I used the 46 rear axle on mine, cutting the rear spring "perches" off the model A axle and welding those to the 46 axle (no rotation of the backing plate required), shortened the torque tube/driveshaft some 18+ inches, used the front spindles and brakes, with the right side cross steering eye cut off (using F1 steering, pedals and crossmember), used the 46 shocks mounted to the model a sockets via bolt on dogbones, '40 front wishbone mated to the model A wishbone ball, with the '46 wishbone socket mounted to the crossmember. Going with '35 16' wheels and the adapters. I'll get some pics tonight... Everything I did was a result of someone else's efforts here on the HAMB I just copied 'em! This is a great place!
you need the ring spacer ring for the front. it goes on the b/plate hole, that goes over the spindle. if your keeping the model a spindels. and u need to have the drums turned in a 1/16". the very back. you'll know if u need an axle shim when u install the drums, and they are very tight to turn.
The front is all getting sawpped right back to the kingpins. I shouldnt need to do anything for the front.
46 Ford brakes are non self energizing and are not self adjusting. On my A I have A axle ans spindles, 1939 Lincoln backing plates, 1964 F250 wheel cylinders, 2" 1976 Chevy shoes and self adjusting parts with 1940 drums and 1935 Ford wire wheels and RAV4 electric car steel belted radials
I know this is an old thread, but my question is related. I am looking to do the same thing. 1946 brakes on a 31 model A. Junk Yard Kid said "then get a front steering hoop that attaches to the spindle and a taper to ball adapter" What is a "front steering hoop that attaches to the spindle" really called? What is "a taper to ball adapter" really called? I know, basic question, but I have searched. Thanks
Speeway sells the bolt on steering arm,and their site will have a picture. Looks like a V with a welded in mounting plate at the narrow end. Mac"s Early Ford parts sells the taper to ball adapter. Looks like the center from a tie rod with a ball on one end. I think the last time I looked it was under 40"s,and later truck steering parts.They had a picture as well.
parts links https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Hoop-Style-Steering-Arm-Ford-Spindle,1167.html https://cgfordparts.com/tie-rod-dra...ckup-bolt-on-1-diameter-1-2-threa-b-3311.html Of course similar parts are available from other dealers too.
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