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Projects 31 ford build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Omarsvette, Dec 1, 2018.

  1. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 16,322

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Check your Safety Certification requirements...You may need a light to accompany that plate...We do up my way...If you do that may affect your location of the plate bracket. There are vintage repop trailer lights that go with that setup and a few others that have the look as well off other vehicles.
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2019
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  2. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 437

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    Found this in the trunk, what is it image.jpg image.jpg
     
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  3. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 437

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    And this gas pedal look odd image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
     
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  4. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 2,123

    31Apickup
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

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  5. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 437

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    Thank, maybe it’ll be wall art for me
     
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  6. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 437

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    I’m working on the door latch system. This was already started when I got the car. But I found out it’s a contradictory system. It’s got bearclaw latches with a handle ment for the original latch. So I fabricated a tight square with a tab. I used the spring latch from a break resivoure cover to attach the door handle to the release latch. The inside handle was already set up. The door looks like carnage, good thing the door panel covers everything. The system works well. I just gotta attach a return spring to the outside door handle. Right now I have to return it by hand. But it doesn’t sag. The car also came with power windows which I’m finishing setting up, that also came with the surprise that it’s one inch short from reaching the top. And that’s with max adjustment. So more fabs. All this while I wait on the gas cap. D9B9EF59-D76D-44BD-B60F-71740B43D018.jpeg FDB0AD54-0B38-47C7-8B44-4D2F2A38F539.jpeg 030ACCE3-C2FF-48BA-8519-3D2C9548FDCB.jpeg 8D3DDFED-76B3-4621-9C43-596B61E5B06D.jpeg
     
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  7. wackdaddy
    Joined: Nov 11, 2015
    Posts: 160

    wackdaddy
    Member

  8. steves29
    Joined: Jan 19, 2010
    Posts: 189

    steves29
    Member

  9. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 437

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

  10. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 437

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    image.jpg image.jpg The glass was an inch away from the top. I had no room for adjustment so I made some extended brackets. Windows work perfect with no gap.
     
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  11. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 437

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    Got some brackets tacked in place to hold the tank level and a bit of the floor. I’ll do the final weld after I verify location of filler. image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
     
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  12. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 437

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    The filler is a little tricky. If I don’t put it in line with the tank neck, I’m going to have some tight bends. But the places were it is in line aren’t flat. I’m hoping the rubber mounting pad will take up some voids between the curve of the body and filler neck. I gotta decide the location of the neck. On top is a hose with no bend or side with a 90deg bend. Nice thing about the side is that it’s flat.
     

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  13. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 437

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

  14. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 4,015

    sloppy jalopies
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I taped off what I did not want to sand...scribed a line with a sharpie...
    with a new flapper disc I put a contour into the base of the filler neck to better match the coupe's quarter...
    .sorry, no bigger pic...
    DSCN3322.JPG
     
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  15. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 4,015

    sloppy jalopies
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Just thought of a 1/4"- 1/2" deep tunnel for the filler...
    Angle won't matter, put it where you want...
    someone did that with a bigger filler in the tulip panel, here on the hamb,
    should have done that on my coupe... errrrr!
     
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  16. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 437

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    At first I thought of modifying the panel, actually leaving up to the painter. But I’m considering what you did to the filler
     
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  17. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 437

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    I tried different hoses but my angle would make a bend/crease that looked ugly. So I found this hose from bob drake that fits 2-2.5 inches opening and doesn’t crease. Saved me from cutting my tank and welding in a 2inch pipe. The opening on the filler is 2” and the tank is 2.5”.
     

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  18. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 437

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    And what’s used for a trunk latch? image.jpg image.jpg
     
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  19. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 437

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    Ok fellas this is my final post on my coupe. I finished some details before it goes to paint may-June. When I get it back I’ll drop the motor in and wire it. I’ll need help getting the hemi started since I’ve only worked on Chevy motors. I think the trunk Latches are a cool feature. I made some door sills to finish the carpet. I added a boot/plate to the break pedal and I scored a 15” bel air steering wheel at the swap meet. image.jpg image.jpg
     
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  20. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 437

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    In the meantime I’m working on converting my gasser to a traditional kustom, starting with replacing the quarter panel. I’ll start a thread in a different category. DA815142-FA18-479B-9488-0E4B5C035C9A.jpeg
     
  21. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 16,322

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Final post till you paint and final assy right?...It would be nice to see it through and then a few with a nice background once out on the road...;)...Good job Omar
     
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  22. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 437

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    yes your right stogy. ill post pics while finally assembly, plus ill need help/advice with putting the final touches on my motor. and much thanks stogy
     
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  23. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 437

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    F9647C8A-4C24-405B-8D73-824854B0A1FA.png 5FD7B6AE-7B2A-4191-961B-0AD99C759320.png 7BBE1D3F-56A1-467C-876B-7F52BF0831D0.png Okay guys here’s some pics of the coupe. My painter says I should have it in the next couple weeks
     
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  24. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 437

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    Got my coupe back today and the first thing I did was drop in the hemi! I’m going to start with a drive line, fuel pump (maybe electric), shifter then tranny lines. B3B759FD-E51A-4443-BABC-35D644DF7F80.jpeg DF04497A-8B59-4046-82A2-875FD812FAF9.jpeg 2BFDB416-A790-4790-8566-EC76E4554966.jpeg EBA0E7C6-9CCE-467D-AA0E-4D4883FFE651.jpeg
     

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  25. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 29,063

    loudbang
    Member

    Nothing like nice new SHINY PAINT. :) And oh Yea a HEMI.
     
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  26. King ford
    Joined: Mar 18, 2013
    Posts: 1,344

    King ford
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from 08302

    Is the roadster in the background another future build?...nice job on the coupe!....( glad to see another build without a rodent engine!
     
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  27. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 437

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    Yes I got it shortly after my coupe went to paint. I’ve been working on cleaning the body and some welding. I added new metal and a Duvall windshield. I plan on a Z’d rear 32 chassis with spring behind axle. And thanks on the coupe comment.
     
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  28. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 437

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    Hey fellas been doing the last 10% of the build. It’s these little details that take patience. I’m installing the door panels. It’s a bit of a challenge because I don’t want to show screws. So I’m using these plastic snaps that I used In my years of building c3corvette. These are factory along with a metal tab that I might use. I’ll be screwing the tabs into the door and panel then they will snap together and stay...in Theory hahaha. I also have to make a hole for the power window button. 63104C8E-A9B1-4B0A-A87F-57421089D428.jpeg 52E971A8-C41A-4B20-815E-BA5EBE4B7971.jpeg 2233BF30-AB4E-42E3-A622-51EA13C4B441.jpeg B827DFED-FFC6-4B0F-B7E9-AF51E515EE66.jpeg B3036C00-38CF-44E0-9356-6F112806D968.jpeg
     
  29. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 437

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    1BFE8D83-E2E8-4162-B3EA-34F492BAEA99.jpeg 4772A89D-2E3D-4F43-9B4B-F2DB7AB4B401.jpeg The clips didn’t work because the push the panel out. So I screwed them in. Looks good I think.
     
  30. Omarsvette
    Joined: Dec 7, 2013
    Posts: 437

    Omarsvette
    Member
    from Arizona

    image.jpg image.jpg I just got my headlights back. Now for the conduit that is exposed from lights to shell. I’m not crazy of the plastic I’m using and I really don’t like the chrome plastic speedway/summit sells. I’m thinking steel braided line? Or cloth but can’t find a size to fit 3 wires in. In have 1/2and 1/4 But it’s too big or too small
     

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