Dude, nice engine choice. I have a 283 for my 31 Chevy sedan with a 3 speed over drive. Should be plenty of power for what you are doing. I would follow the marvel oil suggestion by Mike and try to run it as is. Nice score!
oh, and the rectangle with the triangle in the middle casting mark identify those are power pack heads.
Yes I’m stoked on the look of these heads but also wanting this to be a snappy little power plant with good throttle response. I plan on running a Muncie behind it and low gears. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Managed to get a shot of the progress of the wood removal and all the temporary bracing going in. You can see the new floor sills starting to take shape tho. Have at me. I feel like I’m starting to get on the right track. From the new sub rails I’ll go straight up and work from there is what I’m thinking. This is certainly a head scratcher! The car will be channeled 5-7” Ps anyone else have/solve the problem of only being able to post one pic on the app? Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I built subrails that mounted to the frame first then built out to body subrails mounting the cowl rockers and quarters then filled the center of the floor last, I wouldn’t go more than 5” channel , make the rest of your ride height with suspension mods
Just settled in my new home in Mesa, Arizona. How's your build coming along? I should be hanging with 'ya soon enough, sharing the street with identical hot rods done in different styles...
Oh cool Mike. Been chugging along. Got my kick up done for the 4 link in the rear Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I ended up really liking the shape the rails took. Wasn’t sure at first, but it’s growing on me. Any thoughts? Parallel bars are pre mades from eBay but should suit my build proper. I intend on driving this car hard. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Looks like you channeled that body a lot. I remember you saying earlier in the thread you want it low. Did the body and cowl fit over the frame? I am going to channel my sedan 2"-3" but have not checked to see if the cowl will drop over the frame. My two cents...I would add a plate at the top weld in the inside and outside of the frame rail. I will also add a gusset at the bot horiz to vert joint. I assume you are using coil overs attaching to a cross member at the upper part of the frame. If so, you will have bending forces at the vert to hoirz joint so beef that up a little. I added a sketch to go with my comments. Over all looks like you are building what you want which is great.
Very nice work Eddie! I agree with Matt on the additional bracing, although the frame looks very stout, it can't hurt to look into it. Mine is resting in a very tight 10x15 space at Public Storage because there was NOT an available garage at my new community. But, they just called me yesterday and told me they HAVE a garage directly in front of my apartment, looking like a 10x20. The wheels broke on one side of my hemi engine dollie with the move, so I need to fix this ASAP before the end of this month, moving my hot rod and equipment on the 26th of this month!
Yes it’s definitely giving me the freedom to go as low as I’d like. Although it keeps getting a little higher and higher as time goes by in my head. Who knows. Once I get some rubber and wheels I’ll play with the ride Height a bit. Yeah it did fit right over. Some slight manipulation, but it makes it over the rails very snugly and nice. As far as the joints I 100% agree. I had originally thought to put in a cross member there at the top inner horz to vert joint but now I’m thinking plates. The outers already have plates and the joint (can’t see in pic) Great sketch by the way! That makes it too easy ... I Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Ended up with a one piece setup that I’ll later cut and weld in a driveline hoop once motor and trans is set. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
My next hurdles are panhard placement and coil over angles. Feeling like I’m just going to Widdle a bracket coming off the top of the housing. How much clearance am I looking for at the pumpkin to bottom of panhard bar? Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Very nice work Eddie! I agree with Matt on the additional bracing, although the frame looks very stout, it can't hurt to look into it. id go with a z snaped reinforcement inside the frame,with a few 1 1/2" holes weld the perimeter and around the holes
It's funny how things evolve along the way. For ride hieght, I did not buy tires yet as I want to buy them a little closer to when I will drive it. At this point, I do not see the need to spend $750 to have tires sit for two years. I do know the tire size I am running. So I took the measurements from the bottom of rim to bottom of tires and used 2x4's as blocks to set the rims on so I can get an idea for how everything would layout. So far this has worked out pretty good. I have the rear suspension figured out and all the fab work done. I am just starting the front suspension but have it all figured out. After I get the front end done, I will drop the body on and rebuild all the structure inside the body. You are making good progress and it looks like its coming together.
Thanks! I agree as well with the bracing, as I mentioned, I originally intended on placing a cross member there, but now It'll get some reinforcing..I like the hole idea!
Thank you Matt..as far as the rubber I have a couple tires that will get me close so I can get my eyeballs on it sooner than later. I need literally everything up front other than my 32 crossmember.
Got a little more done! Rear end is as close as it’s gonna get. Checked pinion angle and square about a hundred times. Re adjusted and fit till the cows came home. I think it’s solid back there. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Tacked in the first draft of motor mounts. I’m thinking they need a little more beef. I was going for simple, still need to round the edges on the plate. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
The Jalopy Journal
