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Projects 31 Chevy 5 Window Coupe

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Fast Eddie 27, Nov 5, 2018.

  1. Fast Eddie 27
    Joined: Oct 30, 2018
    Posts: 122

    Fast Eddie 27
    Member

    Dick, please explain what you mean? Inside the rails? I see the positive. And I still could widdle something like that to work. But are you meaning on the outside of the recessed or flush rails?


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  2. DLRIDES
    Joined: Sep 29, 2014
    Posts: 127

    DLRIDES
    Member
    from Newton NC

    Do you plan on welding crossmembers to the boxing plate ?
     
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  3. Fast Eddie 27
    Joined: Oct 30, 2018
    Posts: 122

    Fast Eddie 27
    Member

    Yes. That was my plan. I have the rear section recessed too.


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  4. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 2,492

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    Adding conduit inside the boxing will give you a better way to run the needed wiring in and it will be easier to pull the wiring thru than trying to just inside the boxing plates.
     
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  5. 31chevymike
    Joined: Feb 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,152

    31chevymike
    Member

    Just what you need to do Eddie - keep up your progress! Any ideas for an x-member? Bought mine from Speedway Motors as it has the right traditional look with square tubing than the common round tubular style.
     
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  6. mlagusis
    Joined: Oct 11, 2009
    Posts: 930

    mlagusis
    Member

    I like the conduit idea better. Just a suggestion, the part of the conduit bends, point it downward as it exits the frame. That way water will need to travel uphill to enter the conduit. Maybe even a grommet to keep things out.

    Are you boxing the whole frame? I am boxing the front, adding a x member in the middle area and I already boxed some of the rear.
     
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  7. Jeff Hammers
    Joined: Jan 15, 2019
    Posts: 10

    Jeff Hammers

    A friend of mine restored a 31 coach and the amount of wood framing is amazing. Really looked impressive before the interior went in. Hot rodding a body built this way sure would require extra stiffening....perhaps by replacing said wood with metal framing welded in it's place. That, indeed is the reason why Fords, with just a bit of wood here and there were the choice of most back when.
     
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  8. Fast Eddie 27
    Joined: Oct 30, 2018
    Posts: 122

    Fast Eddie 27
    Member

    Jeff,

    My new plan since the wood in this car is truly in great condition from the floors up is to build a bracing system that leaves the body wood intact just further supports it.

    A cross section rear roll bar type setup that will be totally visible and worked into the interior made with some 2” or so round tubing. A hoop under the roof and drops at the A pillars to the new floor (channeled) is the plan. I’m sure to get some feedback on that one! Lol I’m pretty sure it’ll be just fine support wise and look really cool.
     
  9. DLRIDES
    Joined: Sep 29, 2014
    Posts: 127

    DLRIDES
    Member
    from Newton NC

    When you chop or channel, either or both, ALL structural integrity of the body is lost. The added “bracing system” will be all there is.

    Make sure to give an update in a few years ........................
     
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  10. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 14,630

    tb33anda3rd
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Connecticut HAMB'ers

    when I chopped a 33 chevy 4dr sedan I drilled and glued dowels to connect the cut. 25 years ago and many miles. fyi.
    seems every bodies first reaction is "get rid of the wood". good wood wrapped in sheet metal is a much better structure than just a steel tube. it absorbs sound and vibration. has the ability to absorb impact. they use/used it in boats to with stand the battering of the waves. wood and all joints do need to be good, rot is not good structure, do not confuse the two.
    on my car I ran a piece of 10 gage cut to the contour of the posts, and replaced all screws that went into the wood posts .with bolts that went right through the post and the new steel. over kill but it will keep the screws from coming loose. this all takes time but if you want easy buy a ford.
    for the wood haters I have posted this before: take two lengths of material 2x2 piece of ash and a 2x2 steel tube. find a rock about the size of a softball and have someone pitch it to you using one then the other.............hint start with the wood......
     
  11. 31chevymike
    Joined: Feb 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,152

    31chevymike
    Member

    Eddie, just continue with your progress - you're doing fine... Glad you're going fender less! Show some pics of your new parts when you get the chance.
     
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  12. Fast Eddie 27
    Joined: Oct 30, 2018
    Posts: 122

    Fast Eddie 27
    Member

    Yesss!


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  13. Torkwrench
    Joined: Jan 28, 2005
    Posts: 2,334

    Torkwrench
    Member

    I had originally planned to go all steel with my 34 Master. However, when the guy who did the fabrication, (a 100% traditional guy), looked my car over, it was decided to keep most of the wood, and only replace the bad areas with steel. Fortunately, around 80% of the wood in my coupe was still nice and solid. The only bad areas were the very bottom of the doors, the rear of the trunk floor, and where the trunk latch striker mounts. The floor sub-rails, although very solid, were cracked in the rear axle area.

    The wood in the bottom of the doors and the rear of the trunk floor was starting to rot, while the latch striker area was broken. Sometime in the past a crowbar was used to open the trunk lid. This resulted in the wood in that area being broken.

    A complete steel floor and sub-rails was installed, in addition to the bad areas being replaced with steel. Otherwise, all of the original wood was retained.

    L. Interior 1.jpg L. Interior 2.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2019
  14. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 1,727

    nunattax
    Member

    they are not, ! timber work is not a dark art
     
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  15. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 1,727

    nunattax
    Member

    a very good reason not to fuck up another nice stock car
     
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  16. Fast Eddie 27
    Joined: Oct 30, 2018
    Posts: 122

    Fast Eddie 27
    Member

    Well I guess you guys told me. Ya know I had the inner battle about “fucking up” this nice stock car but after realizing that i scooped this car off the property it sat on for the last 30 years 3 months before it sadly burnt to the ground in the Paradise Ca fires and the fact that a restoration of any kind would have out spent my budget 10 fold I came to the conclusion that it was mine to do what I wanted with it. That being said I’m being cautious with how I build it so I can feel good in knowing I gave it a good life worth living. Haha

    As my very first hot rod build I’m very proud of it and will treasure it always. I won’t sell it in this lifetime and my kids will be driving it.


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  17. Tooth
    Joined: Nov 5, 2016
    Posts: 99

    Tooth
    Member
    from Missouri

    Hey Eddie, nice to see your progress! I picked up a 31 Chevy 5 window coupe frame the other day. Still building on the 54 chevy truck as of now, but buying and stashing parts! Lol Also bought a 9.3 pont/olds rearend. Go man go so I wont make any goofs on mine when I get started! I too have the #65 Rodders Journal . Here's a couple of pics of the frame and the rear end. The frames already been boxed. I think someone was putting coil springs on it. I'll use leaf front and rear... Good luck;)
     

    Attached Files:

  18. Fast Eddie 27
    Joined: Oct 30, 2018
    Posts: 122

    Fast Eddie 27
    Member

    Well. In looking for a power plant I came across a 396 out of an El Camino that a friend of mine built. It’s not exactly what I thought I wanted but the price is right and it was built by a buddy of mine a while back and has been just sitting. Clearly this isn’t all that traditional but in the sake of using what’s there and the fact that a buddy built it I think I’ll try and cram it in there for my first go around. I’m wondering about motor mounts, vertical placement, and the strength of my boxes original frame .... thoughts guys?


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  19. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 2,492

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    I think you would be much better off with a SBC, 283 or 327 are both traditional! That 396 is going to take up too much room, you can maybe use that somewhere else where it would fit much better.
     
  20. mlagusis
    Joined: Oct 11, 2009
    Posts: 930

    mlagusis
    Member

    Nothing wrong with a 396. I would run one in a heartbeat.
     
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  21. Tooth
    Joined: Nov 5, 2016
    Posts: 99

    Tooth
    Member
    from Missouri

    These are the ones I use, from speedway welds to the boxed frame. Just an idea. This is a 396 block too...
    If you break these you've done something... lol:confused:
    I got a collection of them sitting on the shelf Mike, lots of parts. Run BBC IN everything I got... I always say RAT ON!
     

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    Last edited: Jan 26, 2019
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  22. Tooth
    Joined: Nov 5, 2016
    Posts: 99

    Tooth
    Member
    from Missouri

    I'm still looking for sedan doors! But I did find a 31 Chevy 5 Window Coupe frame less than 2 hours from my house. Having him try to help me find you some doors too!
     
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  23. mlagusis
    Joined: Oct 11, 2009
    Posts: 930

    mlagusis
    Member

    Glad you found a frame. I saw the pictures and it looks pretty solid. Thanks for being on the look out for me on those doors!
     
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  24. Fast Eddie 27
    Joined: Oct 30, 2018
    Posts: 122

    Fast Eddie 27
    Member

    Being a newbie is getting old! for the life of me I cannot narrow down an axle setup for my car...is anyone interested in assisting me? I want a good solid drop in the front so I was considering a 32 dropped crossmember, and a dropped axle, just not sure on width. The car will be run without fenders and wanting juice discs up front. I would just love some direction as to what to look for. My apologies in advance for my greenery ....
     
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  25. 31chevymike
    Joined: Feb 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,152

    31chevymike
    Member

    Eddie, my axle is 48" wide, calling Speedway Tech like I have will help you with width options you can choose from. They will give you excellent advice. If they ask, you can tell them that my axle that I purchased from them has been mounted in my own, same frame as yours, but NOT boxed as of yet. Your situation and mine are very similar. Both of ours are fenderless hot rod coupes. Just remember to weld in the '32 Ford cross member with the widest area toward the rear. Caster is built in, so your axle will be tilted back about 7 degrees or so, depending on where you purchase the cross member. Don't sweat it, you got this brother!!

    20190111_172712.jpeg

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  26. 31chevymike
    Joined: Feb 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,152

    31chevymike
    Member

    Eddie, any progress - been a bit quite on here...
     
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  27. Fast Eddie 27
    Joined: Oct 30, 2018
    Posts: 122

    Fast Eddie 27
    Member

    Been a while. I’ve been having trouble posting more that one photo at a time on my phone app and the home computer is always so far away! Anyway got my hands on what I think is a great power plant for my build. I would love any input on this but I was told it’s a 283 out of a 1960’s Chevy. Haven’t ran the numbers yet but it was rebuilt 30 years ago from a former engine builder and never ran. As far as I know it has power pack heads and 4 barrel Rochester Intake setup. IMG_1279.JPG


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  28. Fast Eddie 27
    Joined: Oct 30, 2018
    Posts: 122

    Fast Eddie 27
    Member

    Hey mike. Yes! Slow but steady. As I mentioned in my new post I’m having trouble posting from my phone so I need to get my act together and post an album!



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  29. 31chevymike
    Joined: Feb 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,152

    31chevymike
    Member

    You scored BIGTIME on that 'ol 283 Eddie!! You have a period, steel crankshaft mill that most likely is bored .030 over. Those Edelbrock finned valve covers are the cats-meow too!! You may decide on a multi-deuce intake setup to continue the savvy hot rod look that we all crave - your decision of coarse. Does the engine spin freely? Those rings have been sitting for a really long time, you may want to shoot some Marvel Mystery oil in the spark plug openings and turn the crank by hand to get those rings and cylinders lubricated. Also, get an oil pump primer (driven by your drill) while there is no distributor and prime the engine with engine oil to get oil up into the valve train area as well. Do this from time to time so at initial start up, your 283 will be well lubricated and ready. She'll smoke for a few minutes from the Marvel oil, but will clear up and ready to CRUISE!!! Exactly how I did my initial start up of my 283 from almost 20 years of sitting.

    My hot rod originally came with a '61 283 and Turbo 400 from a truck application. Loved that mill, believe me. Any thoughts on a tranny?
     
  30. Dyce
    Joined: Sep 12, 2006
    Posts: 1,761

    Dyce
    Member

    I see the oil gallery plugs are original. I would question any "rebuld" done without removing those plugs to clean the block.
     
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