Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects 31 Chevy 5 Window Coupe

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Fast Eddie 27, Nov 5, 2018.

  1. Fast Eddie 27
    Joined: Oct 30, 2018
    Posts: 122

    Fast Eddie 27
    Member

    31chevymike likes this.
  2. Fast Eddie 27
    Joined: Oct 30, 2018
    Posts: 122

    Fast Eddie 27
    Member

    Alright well. I’ve decided to start with sending my front axle off to Sid to get another 3” drop out of it and bringing my existing leaf packs to a local spring shop to have them de arched 1-2” if possible ? That coupled with a semi slick leaf perch install should get me down in the front where I want to be. From there clean up the frame ends firewall forward, add boxing and fill unnecessary holes and grind clean while waiting for my parts to come home. Sound like a plan? Feel free to chime in if I’m out of my mind !


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    31chevymike likes this.
  3. DLRIDES
    Joined: Sep 29, 2014
    Posts: 127

    DLRIDES
    Member
    from Newton NC

    The wood may appear in great shape, but it’s not. These cars were designed to flex due to roads at the time, every joint is worn. The doors will sag, door hinges will loosen, etc. There are two main wooden sills that sits on the frame that the inner body structure is connected to. To channel the body, these will have to be removed and the connected structure re-attached to them, ................. daunting task !

    IMO, remove the suspension components, square the frame on stands or a lift, build a steel inner structure, then remove the body, and address the chassis. Forget axles, springs, shackle design, and etc, concentrate on getting the body sorted first. I’m not attempting to sound negative, but building an early Chevrolet is quite a UNIQUE process, but done properly, you Will have a unique car !
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2018
    31chevymike, r2c1 and rtomss like this.
  4. rtomss
    Joined: Jan 9, 2009
    Posts: 240

    rtomss
    Member

    No offense intended. Unfortunatly there isn't much of a road map when it comes to Chevy's. Sure would be nice if there was a Tardel Book to get guys started. It can be done but using all stock parts will have some limitations. You will need to shorten and dearch the rear springs if you keep them original to get the car down. I'd hold off on dearching the fronts. You may only need to remove a couple of leafs once you get it set up and on the ground. Getting started on the body and making it solid first probably makes the most sense. What's you thoughts on Steering? Brakes?
    Rear End? I just finished building a 31' Roadster with Steve. The one with the Sierra Gold Coupe. It's not ultra traditional but most everything is mid 50's. It's shitty out here but here's a garage pic.


    20181019_183321.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2018
  5. paul55
    Joined: Dec 1, 2010
    Posts: 3,156

    paul55
    Member
    from michigan

    Lets see some more pics!^^^ Interior, engine, lower angle, etc.
     
    31chevymike likes this.
  6. Fast Eddie 27
    Joined: Oct 30, 2018
    Posts: 122

    Fast Eddie 27
    Member

    So I've gone a little backwards maybe as I've built a temporary bracing system inside the car to make sure it survives the removal process. Was going to attend to the frame, suspension, ride height etc....after that set the body on a jig complete the bracing, and start lowering it onto my completed frame to achieve the right channel height etc...

    As to your no wood at all comment....I suppose you are right. I was referring only to the upper portion around the quarters in a possibility of saving, but realize now when that time comes, I probably will end up ditching all the wood anyway.

    am I not correct in this thinking?
     
    31chevymike likes this.
  7. nochop
    Joined: Nov 13, 2005
    Posts: 1,551

    nochop
    Member
    from norcal

    That’s nice
     
    31chevymike likes this.
  8. Fast Eddie 27
    Joined: Oct 30, 2018
    Posts: 122

    Fast Eddie 27
    Member

    I have no feelings...ha ha don't worry about offending me, that's why I'm here! Steering I was thinking of a reverse corvair box with discs up front, master under the floor, discs out back on a narrowed chevy 10 bolt or ford 9"
     
    31chevymike likes this.
  9. DLRIDES
    Joined: Sep 29, 2014
    Posts: 127

    DLRIDES
    Member
    from Newton NC


    Square/level frame, complete inner body structure, set body off frame, then address chassis. Follow the build photos I sent and you will be golden !

    :)
     
    31chevymike and Fast Eddie 27 like this.
  10. Fast Eddie 27
    Joined: Oct 30, 2018
    Posts: 122

    Fast Eddie 27
    Member

    Gotcha. But wouldn’t it Make sense to have the body off the frame to correctly measure level and square the frame?
     
    31chevymike likes this.
  11. DLRIDES
    Joined: Sep 29, 2014
    Posts: 127

    DLRIDES
    Member
    from Newton NC

    Frame leveled/squared as is. If you remove body from frame without the proper inner structure, potential disaster. I started a thread asking the same, and received some great advice from someone who had built a Chevy .................... damn glad I followed it !

    Fabricate new sills, then connect sills with cross braces, continue upward, A-pillars, then connect with cowl support and top support (across top of windshield). At this point you start establishing some rigidity. B-pillars next, then top runners from top of A-pillars over B-pillars to rear of car. Rear corners next upward to top runners. Now you can start connecting the rear corners to B-pillars, and corners to each other in rear, for side support/rigidity.

    Doors LAST, after you finish the chassis and set back on. You will have to build complete door frames ! Sills and door frames will be the most difficult part of the build.
     
    31chevymike likes this.
  12. hemiboy
    Joined: Apr 21, 2005
    Posts: 249

    hemiboy
    Member

    Good plan on the wood, DL. I guess I'm assuming that the OP will be replacing all the wood
    with steel. Or am I incorrect?
     
    31chevymike likes this.
  13. My buddy, Bob's 32. He used a 261, T-5 and he re-wooded the body. Bobchaleks32coupeinterior.jpg bobchaleks32chevy.JPG
     
    31chevymike, brEad, Stovebolt and 8 others like this.
  14. r2c1
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 124

    r2c1
    Member

    Eddie .. I noticed you own a body shop. I'm sure you have a great amount of knowledge about body structure. I think you will do just fine in this build. By the way, nice shop. Ron
     
    TFoch, 31chevymike and Fast Eddie 27 like this.
  15. rtomss
    Joined: Jan 9, 2009
    Posts: 240

    rtomss
    Member

    Cool...you might look at a tri five rear. They are basically the perfect width.
     
    31chevymike and Fast Eddie 27 like this.
  16. rtomss
    Joined: Jan 9, 2009
    Posts: 240

    rtomss
    Member

    Don't want to hijack the thread but here's the motor....261 w/a Packard Overdrive

    20181027_155916.jpg
     
  17. Fast Eddie 27
    Joined: Oct 30, 2018
    Posts: 122

    Fast Eddie 27
    Member

    Maybe a little. Lol. Thank you sir ! Your fab skills will be a tough act to follow!

    Eddie


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    31chevymike and r2c1 like this.
  18. Fast Eddie 27
    Joined: Oct 30, 2018
    Posts: 122

    Fast Eddie 27
    Member

    Yes that’s my plan. The logistics and timeline of this adventure is what’s to question here.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    31chevymike likes this.
  19. DLRIDES
    Joined: Sep 29, 2014
    Posts: 127

    DLRIDES
    Member
    from Newton NC

    Timeline ?

    About double the time and skill of what it takes to build a Ford ............ :eek: ;)
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2018
    31chevymike likes this.
  20. Fast Eddie 27
    Joined: Oct 30, 2018
    Posts: 122

    Fast Eddie 27
    Member

    Ha ha! I’m not scared


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    31chevymike likes this.
  21. southcross2631
    Joined: Jan 20, 2013
    Posts: 3,533

    southcross2631
    Member

    When I built my 33 . No mig welder was available to me at the time so I gas welded all of the tubing in the car. Got real good at gas welding though.
    My mom kept saying where are all of the coat hangers going ? This was in the mid 60's.
    Since the front of the frame was cut off before I got the car. I used what was left of the frame as a jig to brace the body before I took it off and put it on a shortened 49 Chevy frame. We channeled it over the frame .
     
  22. mlagusis
    Joined: Oct 11, 2009
    Posts: 961

    mlagusis
    Member

    I have a 31 Chevy 2 door sedan I am building. I had thought about doing the same thing...using a Ford front end so I purchased a complete front end with juice brakes. Then I saw this roadster and the gold coupe and changed my mind.

    Now I am running all Chevy parts. 1952 truck front brakes and front axle dropped 3". Stock 31 front springs. 52 Chevy steering box, column and wheel. 12 bolt truck rear end with 3:40 gears and stock rear springs. 1946 truck level shocks front/rear (they bolt right up to the frame with existing holes) 283 with a 3 speed OD. Going to grab a 62 Chevy truck clutch and brake pedal along with the bell housing so I can use the hydraulic clutch. Late 1940's 16" steel wheels (6 lug) front and back. Firestone 4.50x16 front and 7.5x16 rear tires.

    I am planning to keep it as simple as possible. My body has most of the wood removed already so I will have a heck of a time building the steel structure with the body wiggly like Jello. So I am focusing on my suspension first, then going to build a jig attached to my frame to set the body on. Once I get the body square and secured, I will then start building internal structure with 1" tubing and 1"x2" in specific areas.

    Good luck on your build. Glad to hear you are running 4 springs.


     
    31chevymike, tb33anda3rd and RMR&C like this.
  23. mlagusis
    Joined: Oct 11, 2009
    Posts: 961

    mlagusis
    Member

    The good thing about running parts from a late 40's-early 50's truck is most of the time you can get them for free or almost nothing! Most people building those trucks are doing mustang 2 front ends and have no need for the old stuff.
     
    31chevymike and rtomss like this.
  24. Need more photos of this good looking roadster!
     
    31chevymike likes this.
  25. mlagusis
    Joined: Oct 11, 2009
    Posts: 961

    mlagusis
    Member

    Agreed.
     
    31chevymike likes this.
  26. Fast Eddie 27
    Joined: Oct 30, 2018
    Posts: 122

    Fast Eddie 27
    Member

    oh roger that....Used somewhat basic to find?
     
    31chevymike likes this.
  27. rtomss
    Joined: Jan 9, 2009
    Posts: 240

    rtomss
    Member

    I think so...I've bought 2 through Craigslist. Usually go for around $200-$250 Open Carrier.
     
    31chevymike likes this.
  28. rtomss
    Joined: Jan 9, 2009
    Posts: 240

    rtomss
    Member

    . IMG_20181011_201624_145.jpeg

    Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  29. Fast Eddie 27
    Joined: Oct 30, 2018
    Posts: 122

    Fast Eddie 27
    Member

    Sounds like we’re on a very similar adventure! Let’s see this car?


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    31chevymike likes this.
  30. GuyW
    Joined: Feb 23, 2007
    Posts: 536

    GuyW
    Member

    31chevymike likes this.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.