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31 Body Ford on 32 Frame - Highboy or channel

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Tudor, Mar 25, 2004.

  1. I am sorry if this is covered elsewhere. I searched and read all I could.

    I just have some basic questions and I haven't got my car yet so I can't look at it.

    I was wondering what has to be done to a 31 body to sit it on a 32 frame as a high boy. I know the top of the A frames are pretty much flat and the 32's aren't. Does the 32 frame need a pinch or do yu cut the bottom of the body to contour the frame? Or is it close - I know SOCAL builds a special pinched 32 chassis for the 28-29 models but they don't mention the 30-31s - I thought that was odd. I am not gonna buy a socal chassis, but it made me wonder what was different.

    And if one decides to channel - does one pretty much just build his own frame that is narrower than the body and then redo and raise the floor supports?

    Any help on the basics be appreciated. I've never had one to fool with so this is all new to me as far as 30's frames and bodies.
     
  2. Rolf
    Joined: Jul 23, 2002
    Posts: 1,835

    Rolf
    Member

  3. Rolf - thank you sir - that is exactly what I was looking for. I need to study that - It looks like you did a jam up job.
     
  4. DrJ
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 9,419

    DrJ
    Member

    paying the premium dollar for a 32 frame and then channeling an A body over it would be like winning the gold medal at the olympics and havin it bronzed.

    If you're going to channel just use an A frame.
     

  5. [ QUOTE ]
    paying the premium dollar for a 32 frame and then channeling an A body over it would be like winning the gold medal at the olympics and havin it bronzed.

    If you're going to channel just use an A frame.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I'm with the Doctor. Why hide a sculpted chassis?
     
  6. Reggie
    Joined: Aug 25, 2003
    Posts: 1,701

    Reggie
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Tudor, I just recently put a '30 coupe on a '32 frame. The frame does not need to be pinched on '30-'31 Model As. They are a bit wider at the cowl than the '28-'29s for which the So-Cal A-V8 frame is designed. However, the rear subframe/floor does need to be removed just in front of the rear wheel house and reconstructed to match the countour of the '32 frame. The 32 Frame will need to be bobbed at the rear to fit inside of the body. There are many ways to reconstruct the rear subrail. I used 1" square tubing and heated it to conform to the '32s kickup. I connected that to the remaining front subrail and spot welded the quarter panels to the new subrail. You should be able to handle it pretty easily. Just remember to x-brace your body prior to removing the floor.
     
  7. CaseyK
    Joined: Jan 27, 2004
    Posts: 386

    CaseyK
    Member

    I've been searching for info on this too lately. The truth is out there! The "miny chop" that Rolf did is the way I'm going to go. It fills the gap nicely, plus it looks factory - way cool! The frame needs to be pinched for this option, so it fits inside the cowl. It's a matter of personl preference - to pinch or not to pinch. They look sweet both ways. My dilema is trying to save the rumble seat on my roadster, should be doable. Good luck! Keep us posted.

     
  8. Rolf
    Joined: Jul 23, 2002
    Posts: 1,835

    Rolf
    Member

  9. 30roadster
    Joined: Aug 19, 2003
    Posts: 1,793

    30roadster
    Member

    I thought this was a nice solution to some of the things you were thinking about. dagel products
     
  10. Hip
    Joined: Jan 3, 2003
    Posts: 848

    Hip
    Member

    Really in any other case this wouldn't bother me one i-oda as to hide a frame under a body, but we are talking about the showcaser of frames. Id display that baby proudly.
     
  11. CaseyK
    Joined: Jan 27, 2004
    Posts: 386

    CaseyK
    Member

    I think brookville also offers a similiar frame like the dagel one.
     
  12. Kevin Lee
    Joined: Nov 12, 2001
    Posts: 7,582

    Kevin Lee
    Super Moderator
    Staff Member

    I think channeling a body over a deuce frame looks damn good. Deeper channel without a wierd flap of bodywork hanging over the bottom of the frame. And as a bonus it's a nice big middle finger to all of the people who think it would be a shame. Funny, yesterday I was thinking about the coupe I'm going to build and decided I might want to forgo a tubing chassis and just use a deuce frame with the body channeled over it. Gold looks ugly sometimes. I think Bronze is a much nicer color overall.
     
  13. Everyone, thanks - I was scared this was a dumb question.
    I agree about channeling over the 32 rails! That was a great way to put it. I really meant bulding a narrow frame as an alternative, not in addition to the 32 rails. I have seen some nice posts where the homemade frames are contoured once they come out from under the body. That looks pretty tough to do. Not impossible, but I think you would have to be good.

    I am certain I want a new frame, home made or not, because I want it to drive nice, be strong, and be done right.

    Rolf the information on the rear was also very valuable. Wow - nice work.

    Are the "subrails" the channels in the floor pan that sit on the frame and support the body?

    To Bob the frame - Would you notch it or flatten the entire top off the hump?

    "The 3/4" pinch in the jig" raises a question? Did you cut the inside box, take out the cross member, and bend it in 3/4" on each side. What did you use for a jig? Do you have a big flat table in your shop?

    That picture of the gap is priceless! That defines the problem right there.

    Dagels super A frame is a cool solution - I guess you could still hang the tank like a 32 out back by extending the frame rails. I'd almost feel like that would be cheating

    I have looked at many of these cars and never even thought about all the work that goes into mounting the body. I am going to the Charlotte auto fair in 2 weekends and I can't wait to study all the frames and bodies I see. I also think some things will come to light when I have the problem sitting in front of me. I am now armed with the basic info and some past solutions on how they normally fit together. That will help ton's
    Again the HAMB rules.
    and Again - thanks for the help.

     
  14. Rolf
    Joined: Jul 23, 2002
    Posts: 1,835

    Rolf
    Member

    [ QUOTE ]
    Are the "subrails" the channels in the floor pan that sit on the frame and support the body?

    To Bob the frame - Would you notch it or flatten the entire top off the hump?

    "The 3/4" pinch in the jig" raises a question? Did you cut the inside box, take out the cross member, and bend it in 3/4" on each side. What did you use for a jig? Do you have a big flat table in your shop?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Yes, subrail are the "frame" of the floor that rests on the frame. They are obviously straight on the model A. Some folks just cut out a part on the inside of the subrail, and lower the body over the 32 frame. In my case, the rear subrails were weak, so that's why I scratch built mine. I suppose you can buy repop 32 rails as well, but hey, metal is cheap!

    I am not sure what you mean about Bob the frame [​IMG]

    Jig: I am lucky enought to have a fried with a 32 frame jig, it just helps to make sure to pinch is uniform. I built the cross member after I piched it.
     
  15. Here's mine....
     

    Attached Files:

  16. Another shot....
     

    Attached Files:

  17. Think long and hard about it before channeling any car, and be damn sure its what you really want. It looks cool but in a smaller vehicle like an A screws up everything in the interior. Relation of seat to pedals, position and angle of steering column and all that kind of stuff. It eliminates a bunch of leg room and if the seat isn't done right, you'll look like Herman Munster driving it.

    I know all the above by experience because I'm the proud owner of a 4" channeled A roadster. Never again

    Of course, the above is just IMHO. If you really like the looks of a channeled car have at it.
     

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