I sell Jeep parts for a living. That sure looks like an adapter from Advanced Adapters to mate the AMC 400 (chevy guts in a special case to fit the AMC 304,360,401 bell housing) it uses a weird AMC style TC. It. Anyway it WILL come out as it was a close tolerance slip fit. If you real worried about damaging the crank, pull it and run it down to the local machine shop. Or pick up a re-man crank from them. Keith
there is a tool that might work for this. ts call a blind bearing puller. used with a slide hammer. should take it out. or you said it moves a little. can you wiggle it out with a pair of channel locks on the end.
Well, I got it out this morning, about 5 min ago, actually. Sprayed some PBlaster around it, gave it some physical motivation with the 2lb hammer, then got to spinning it with a pipe wrench. Spun the crank clockwise till it stopped, then the adapter started spinning on its own. Got it spinning pretty easily, then started putting a little pull on the spin, came right out. Thanks for all the advice...definitely a strange thing. Now to get out the only rusted bolt holding on the flywheel...non-hardened steel...yay.
Part number 7160323 ? Might be nice to preserve to make the removed kit $ellable. The GM to big AMC turbo 400 sounds like a nice combo. Depending how much one costs from Advance Adapters I'd try a hook on a slide hammer, or a small 2 jaw gear puller with the jaws reversed. The cutaway view on the last page of the atlas pdf suggest it should be possible to "hydraulic" it off/out. I'd locate or make a snug fitting (~0.002 inch clearance) bar/pin. Pack the cavity with grease, and drive the pin in. Messy, but powerful. if it failed, I'd use a carbide burr to cut one or 2 shallow grooves down the side. In case it was installed with Loctite I might heat if HOT (400 F plus) with Mapp gas or oxyacetylene first
told ya pipe wrench!! on the ot cars i work on, i have to remove a bushing like this from the crank when i do an automatic to manual trans conversion.
Ha! You can see the results of the "motivation" I gave it around the thin part of the bushing. It's not salvagable, and I don't have the rest of the kit, anyway. Just as well, sometimes it's satisfaction to destroy a useless part that's giving you hell That other bolt wouldn't let go, heat, PBlaster, breaker bar, or otherwise....it started to round off on me...I put the rest of the bolts back in and mounted the trans.....good to go!
I would get that bolt out and replace it. One day you are going to need a new ring gear, and that bolt will come back to bite your ass! Lots easier to get it out now than when lying on your back and cursing.
Good to hear you got the bushing out OK. As for the problem flexplate bolt ... I have had success cleaning up the flat surface of the problem bolt head with a sanding disc, and then Mig welding a larger diameter bolt to it (I do understand that not everyone has a Mig handy), let cool a bit and then ... out she comes (I do realize you have just decided to leave it in though). The one time I did round off a flexplate bolt was actually because I used an impact on it ... now I just use hand tools and have not had a problem since.
Yeah, I gotta get a MIG. I rounded it off using hand strength and a breaker bar. Smacking folks for using bad materials like this is just too good for em'!
The first two pics you posted looked like a lot of rust was involved. The last and final pic tells a better story. You should be able to use your current flexplate with the Glide, if the torque converter mounting holes don't match up, redrill 3 more; the TC centers in the crank as I'm sure you know, at least by now. And as already posted, time to weld a GOOD nut on the buggered up bolt head, and it should come right out. You sure had a bunch of us scratching our heads trying to figure out what the story here was. So, after all this, what's the engine/trans going in? Butch/56sedandelivery.
It might be the torque converter support that is part of the Jeep adapter kit. The shoulder that it is pressed onto is not terribly big, so there should not be too much holding it on. Grab a big hammer and whack away. It should knock right off.
I didn't get to bolt up the TC today, but I measured all the hole distances, center to center, and it looks like it'll line up fine. It's high time I get my own MIG, especially with this build. I got away without it for my 50...but not this time. I'm looking for a good used one locally. Yeah, I scratched my head so much that I'm wearing a cap to cover the bald spot! the motor is going in my A Coupester budget build. The big budget item for it will be the 32 rail frame I get from blackboard or JW Rod Garage. With all the rest of my rides getting mediocre MPG, I'd like to recoup some of that cost and have some fun at the same time ;P I'll probably slowly gather stuff for a 327 on down the line. Here's the build thread....not far along by ANY extent. But at least you can see my discombobulated thought process, its fun at least. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=525194
Hey Gimpy! Thanks for the PM reply....I got it "whacked off" hubba hubba! lol pics on the previous page EDIT....and what's the deal with someone even bothering to post ONE STAR? Lame.
I love me some big hammer! I only saw the end of the thread and wanted to get an answer out as quickly as I could, in case you were tearing out your hair.
And if you do weld anything to the stubborn bolt in your attempts to remove it, make darn sure you hook your ground clamp to the flex plate or to the crank snout (flex palte preferred), rather than to the engine block. If you hook it to the block, then weld on the bolt, the ground path is through your crankshaft bearings. That would be considered an undesirable path for high quantities of electrons to flow through.
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