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305 sbc flexplate problem

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by poboyross, Feb 12, 2011.

  1. 383 240z
    Joined: Oct 28, 2007
    Posts: 429

    383 240z
    Member

    I sell Jeep parts for a living. That sure looks like an adapter from Advanced Adapters to mate the AMC 400 (chevy guts in a special case to fit the AMC 304,360,401 bell housing) it uses a weird AMC style TC. It. Anyway it WILL come out as it was a close tolerance slip fit. If you real worried about damaging the crank, pull it and run it down to the local machine shop. Or pick up a re-man crank from them. Keith
     
  2. old lady's mad
    Joined: Mar 18, 2007
    Posts: 173

    old lady's mad
    Member

    there is a tool that might work for this. ts call a blind bearing puller. used with a slide hammer. should take it out. or you said it moves a little. can you wiggle it out with a pair of channel locks on the end.
     
  3. poboyross
    Joined: Apr 29, 2009
    Posts: 2,139

    poboyross
    Member

    Well, I got it out this morning, about 5 min ago, actually. Sprayed some PBlaster around it, gave it some physical motivation with the 2lb hammer, then got to spinning it with a pipe wrench. Spun the crank clockwise till it stopped, then the adapter started spinning on its own. Got it spinning pretty easily, then started putting a little pull on the spin, came right out.

    Thanks for all the advice...definitely a strange thing.

    [​IMG]

    Now to get out the only rusted bolt holding on the flywheel...non-hardened steel...yay.
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2011
  4. BELLM
    Joined: Nov 16, 2002
    Posts: 2,588

    BELLM
    Member

    poboyross link DEFINITELY answered the question as to what this was for
     
  5. Dan Timberlake
    Joined: Apr 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,297

    Dan Timberlake
    Member

    Part number 7160323 ? Might be nice to preserve to make the removed kit $ellable.
    The GM to big AMC turbo 400 sounds like a nice combo.

    Depending how much one costs from Advance Adapters I'd try a hook on a slide hammer, or a small 2 jaw gear puller with the jaws reversed.

    The cutaway view on the last page of the atlas pdf suggest it should be possible to "hydraulic" it off/out. I'd locate or make a snug fitting (~0.002 inch clearance) bar/pin. Pack the cavity with grease, and drive the pin in. Messy, but powerful.

    if it failed, I'd use a carbide burr to cut one or 2 shallow grooves down the side.

    In case it was installed with Loctite I might heat if HOT (400 F plus) with Mapp gas or oxyacetylene first
     
  6. brewster55
    Joined: Sep 2, 2010
    Posts: 149

    brewster55
    Member

    told ya pipe wrench!!

    on the ot cars i work on, i have to remove a bushing like this from the crank when i do an automatic to manual trans conversion.
     
  7. poboyross
    Joined: Apr 29, 2009
    Posts: 2,139

    poboyross
    Member


    Ha! You can see the results of the "motivation" I gave it around the thin part of the bushing.

    It's not salvagable, and I don't have the rest of the kit, anyway. Just as well, sometimes it's satisfaction to destroy a useless part that's giving you hell :cool:

    That other bolt wouldn't let go, heat, PBlaster, breaker bar, or otherwise....it started to round off on me...I put the rest of the bolts back in and mounted the trans.....good to go!
     
  8. R Pope
    Joined: Jan 23, 2006
    Posts: 3,309

    R Pope
    Member

    I would get that bolt out and replace it. One day you are going to need a new ring gear, and that bolt will come back to bite your ass! Lots easier to get it out now than when lying on your back and cursing.
     
  9. Good to hear you got the bushing out OK.

    As for the problem flexplate bolt ... I have had success cleaning up the flat surface of the problem bolt head with a sanding disc, and then Mig welding a larger diameter bolt to it (I do understand that not everyone has a Mig handy), let cool a bit and then ... out she comes (I do realize you have just decided to leave it in though). The one time I did round off a flexplate bolt was actually because I used an impact on it ... now I just use hand tools and have not had a problem since.
     
  10. poboyross
    Joined: Apr 29, 2009
    Posts: 2,139

    poboyross
    Member


    Yeah, I gotta get a MIG. I rounded it off using hand strength and a breaker bar. Smacking folks for using bad materials like this is just too good for em'!
     
  11. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,566

    56sedandelivery
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The first two pics you posted looked like a lot of rust was involved. The last and final pic tells a better story. You should be able to use your current flexplate with the Glide, if the torque converter mounting holes don't match up, redrill 3 more; the TC centers in the crank as I'm sure you know, at least by now. And as already posted, time to weld a GOOD nut on the buggered up bolt head, and it should come right out. You sure had a bunch of us scratching our heads trying to figure out what the story here was. So, after all this, what's the engine/trans going in? Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
  12. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,899

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    It might be the torque converter support that is part of the Jeep adapter kit.

    The shoulder that it is pressed onto is not terribly big, so there should not be too much holding it on.

    Grab a big hammer and whack away. It should knock right off.
     
  13. poboyross
    Joined: Apr 29, 2009
    Posts: 2,139

    poboyross
    Member


    I didn't get to bolt up the TC today, but I measured all the hole distances, center to center, and it looks like it'll line up fine.

    It's high time I get my own MIG, especially with this build. I got away without it for my 50...but not this time. I'm looking for a good used one locally.

    Yeah, I scratched my head so much that I'm wearing a cap to cover the bald spot!

    the motor is going in my A Coupester budget build. The big budget item for it will be the 32 rail frame I get from blackboard or JW Rod Garage. With all the rest of my rides getting mediocre MPG, I'd like to recoup some of that cost and have some fun at the same time ;P I'll probably slowly gather stuff for a 327 on down the line.

    Here's the build thread....not far along by ANY extent. But at least you can see my discombobulated thought process, its fun at least.

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=525194
     
  14. poboyross
    Joined: Apr 29, 2009
    Posts: 2,139

    poboyross
    Member

    Hey Gimpy!

    Thanks for the PM reply....I got it "whacked off" hubba hubba! lol pics on the previous page :)

    EDIT....and what's the deal with someone even bothering to post ONE STAR? Lame.
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2011
  15. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,899

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I love me some big hammer!

    I only saw the end of the thread and wanted to get an answer out as quickly as I could, in case you were tearing out your hair.
     
  16. Rudebaker
    Joined: Sep 14, 2007
    Posts: 1,598

    Rudebaker
    Member
    from Illinois

    You only have 155 posts so that can't possibly work. ;):rolleyes:

    J/K, that's actually a helluva good idea.:cool:
     
  17. Ebbsspeed
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 5,359

    Ebbsspeed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    And if you do weld anything to the stubborn bolt in your attempts to remove it, make darn sure you hook your ground clamp to the flex plate or to the crank snout (flex palte preferred), rather than to the engine block. If you hook it to the block, then weld on the bolt, the ground path is through your crankshaft bearings. That would be considered an undesirable path for high quantities of electrons to flow through.
     

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