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305 sbc flexplate problem

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by poboyross, Feb 12, 2011.

  1. poboyross
    Joined: Apr 29, 2009
    Posts: 2,139

    poboyross
    Member

    Hey guys,

    I'm trying to mount a powerglide to my 305, but it won't fit due to this crankshaft extension going thru the center of the flexplate. It appears pressed on, but what's the best way to get it off? I've tried wedging a wonder bar in the grove around its perimeter, tapping around to see if I could inch it out, but not much luck.
     
  2. i'm not follow that....are you trying to get the flexplate on or off? what year 305? do you have the correct flexplate? any pictures?
     
  3. poboyross
    Joined: Apr 29, 2009
    Posts: 2,139

    poboyross
    Member


    It's the stock flexplate. I want to keep it on there but remove this hub in the center that's a separate piece, pressed into the crankshaft. I need to remove this space so my powerglide can mate up to it. Never saw this before.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2011
  4. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 28,142

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Ok, what model of powerglide are you trying to bolt up?

    Are the raised spots for the converter to bolt to towards the converter like they should be? I don't think you can actually flip the flexplate and bolt it up but am not positive about that.

    If the engine had a stick behind it before you may need to remove the pilot bushing from the end of the trans to clear the front of the snout on the converter if it sticks back too far.
     

  5. poboyross
    Joined: Apr 29, 2009
    Posts: 2,139

    poboyross
    Member

    The pic I tried to post earlier from my cell didn't work, I just fixed it. I does fit the description of the pilot bushing you mentioned. The PG is from a 69 Camaro that came off the back of a 250 inline. I have the flexplate original to the 250, but figured I'd stick with the one native to the 305, as it looks to be in good condition. Not sure what type of trans was originally on the back of the 305.

    [​IMG]

    If you look closely, you can see the circumferential groove around the bushing, in front of the flexplate. It definitely moves, I can move it in and out maybe 1/32" with a lot of push/pull, but no more.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2011
  6. jim powers
    Joined: May 12, 2010
    Posts: 50

    jim powers
    Member
    from new jersey

    just order a new flexplate from jegs or summit their are friggin cheap!!!
     
  7. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 28,142

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Not a clue as to what that is. pull the flex plate off and that thing along with it and put the one off the 250 on it and go on about your business. That thing is the strangest thing I've seen lately.
     
  8. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 28,142

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That engine wasn't in an industrial application like a speed sprayer or pump was it?
     
  9. poboyross
    Joined: Apr 29, 2009
    Posts: 2,139

    poboyross
    Member

    Nah, it came straight out of a Wagoneer the guy had it in before he did a mild rebuild. Numbers on it come up as 87-91 GM...obviously not stock in the Jeep. Removing the flexplate has no effect on this bushing. It comes right off the end like usual. I have to figure out a way to get this bushing off...Murphy strikes again!
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2011
  10. davidbistolas
    Joined: May 21, 2010
    Posts: 962

    davidbistolas
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    :confused:Are you saying this bushing thing is attached to the crank? If you pull the flywheel off does the bushing come off attached to it/with it?
     
  11. poboyross
    Joined: Apr 29, 2009
    Posts: 2,139

    poboyross
    Member


    Yep, it's pressed into the back of the crank...removing the flywheel doesn't affect it at all. It slides right off the crank and the bushing. I can get a little gap going in there, but not more than 1/32". Tried working my way around it, to no avail. There's no bolt or anything in the center of the crank holding it on. So my assumption is pressure fit.
     
  12. brewster55
    Joined: Sep 2, 2010
    Posts: 149

    brewster55
    Member

    pipe wrench and twist it out?
     
  13. onlychevrolets
    Joined: Jan 23, 2006
    Posts: 2,307

    onlychevrolets
    Member


    I'm with you ....
     
  14. brewster55
    Joined: Sep 2, 2010
    Posts: 149

    brewster55
    Member


    what good is that gonna do? he stated several times that thing is pressed into the crank and has nothing to do with the flexplate.
     
  15. Rudebaker
    Joined: Sep 14, 2007
    Posts: 1,598

    Rudebaker
    Member
    from Illinois

    Especially since he has a 1 Pc. rear main 305, the flexplate from the 250 won't work.

    Since when did 1 Pc. rear main 305 Chebbies come in Wagoneers? It must have been a swap and could explain the "bushing". It may be part of an adapter kit to mate the engine up to a non-GM trans. Soak it with penetrating oil like MMO. You might be able to get a strap wrench or pipe wrench on it and start twisting it back and forth until it comes loose OR drill a hole through it from side to side and put a bar through the hole then use a slide hammer with a hook around the bar to start working it out. Don't get to crazy with the slide hammer though, there is a remote chance you could damage the thrust bearing if you got too violent with it.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2011
  16. fatstax
    Joined: Sep 15, 2010
    Posts: 52

    fatstax
    Member
    from cobourg

    if its a standard crank in a sbc, that thing whatever it is should be pressed in and should simply come out, i agree i have never seen anyting like that in the back of a sbc crank before. could you take a picture of it facing the back of the crank?
     
  17. onlychevrolets
    Joined: Jan 23, 2006
    Posts: 2,307

    onlychevrolets
    Member


    so what? I still agree that is a stange looking part just like he said...is that ok with you Mr 33 post?
     
  18. poboyross
    Joined: Apr 29, 2009
    Posts: 2,139

    poboyross
    Member


    Yeah, it was a swap into the Wagoneer. The MMO sounds like a plan, either that or some PBlaster. The others sound like good ideas, too. I didn't go after it like gangbusters on the thwacking...got a cold chisel and gave it a little motivation around the groove to try and nudge the gap open a bit, added a little English, but no banana. Figured I'd stop before I busted it's bawls.

    I was hoping that someone else had dealt with this firsthand....perhaps I'll be Patient Zero.
     
  19. poboyross
    Joined: Apr 29, 2009
    Posts: 2,139

    poboyross
    Member

    I just found this, that bushing in the center looks kinda like a version of what got pounded into the ass end of mine. I also thought I might take a little heat to it before the MMO and see if it might help in popping loose any rust that might have formed.

    [​IMG]


    EDIT....check this shiz out:

    http://www.atlas-tc.com/pdf/712/716133.pdf

    Yep...that's it...pressed into the rear of the crank. *sigh*
     
  20. brewster55
    Joined: Sep 2, 2010
    Posts: 149

    brewster55
    Member


    quality over quantity...
     
  21. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,219

    F&J
    Member


    there's my chuckle for the day:D:cool:




    ...oh, and about that bushing; if you said it moves a bit, and if you don't need it....smack the 'ell out of it sideways. If it's thinwalled, it should pop right out with a few smacks from both sides.
     
  22. onlychevrolets
    Joined: Jan 23, 2006
    Posts: 2,307

    onlychevrolets
    Member


    sure .....
     
  23. davidbistolas
    Joined: May 21, 2010
    Posts: 962

    davidbistolas
    Member

    and watch that rear main... don't whack the SNOT out of it, just tap it enough to unseat it.
    I went digging for an adaptor - sbc -> amc, but I found nothing. Some of them wagoneers seem to have come with TH400s - which makes your setup even more confusing.
     
  24. woodienut
    Joined: Feb 17, 2009
    Posts: 349

    woodienut
    Member
    from So.Cal.

    It is thin walled, just use some heat!
     
  25. blue 49
    Joined: Dec 24, 2006
    Posts: 1,324

    blue 49
    Member
    from Iowa

    Tack weld something with a threaded hole in it across the end of it and use a bolt or piece of threaded rod to jack it out.
     
  26. newsomtravis
    Joined: Jun 1, 2009
    Posts: 562

    newsomtravis
    Member
    from pville, ca

    wtf is that thing, i know ya don`t need it, just never seen that before, get that crap outta there! weird.......
     
  27. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 28,142

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Ok, I didn't realize that it was a one piece seal block. And yes it should loosen up by tapping it on the sides with a hammer.

    From first appearances it looked like it was fastened to the flexplate rather than pressed in the end of the crank. Time for new glasses for me.

    Did you get it out?
     
  28. Novadude55
    Joined: Nov 10, 2009
    Posts: 2,352

    Novadude55
    Member
    from CA

    Thats a new one on me too, never seen that before,
    but its from a Jeep, so I guess thats what it had to have,
    Let us know how you get it out,,
     
  29. some heat and a hammer should remove it.
     
  30. brad chevy
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,627

    brad chevy
    Member

    Never saw a torque convertor that would accept something like that,you sure this thing is a Chevy,looks like some shit American Motors would have come up with.
     

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