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Technical 302 Mr. Gasket 213 Intake Gasket install, Low Vacuum, Bolt Torque..

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by tlmartin84, Jun 8, 2021.

  1. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 956

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    Have any of you guys used these gaskets? I specifically bought them because they come with the metal plates for the EGR block offs.

    After installation I have been suffering from low vacuum (5 inHG at idle). I have checked everything. One thing that has been weird to me, and everyone overlooks is that I have vacuum in the crankcase. With the PCV unhooked, I still have vacuum, at both breathers, and at the dipstick.

    I am thinking an internal intake leak. So, I was looking at my gasket pictures, and found these:

    20210428_174927_HDR.jpg

    These have tabs that hook them to the head gasket. Look at how low the gasket sits on the port. Is there enough there to seal? Is this a problem anyone else has ran into?

    The other issue is torque. My stainless bolts say to torque to 18 ft-lbs with antiseize. This seems low. After torquing, they have now loosened up to around 8 ftlbs. I need to retorque them, but do you think I am wasting my time with those gaskets that low?
     
  2. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 4,193

    Fordors
    Member

    F6C63B0B-7787-43F1-9E12-55B8039D39FC.jpeg Looking at the ports your gaskets are too low as pictured and the intake ports will not be sealed at the bottom, that is your vacuum leak.
    Get some Gaskacinch, or something similar and apply it to the heads to hold the gaskets in place where they will seal all around the ports.
    There is no need to glue the whole gasket, maybe just do the area around the water ports and then if you have a gap between the gaskets and the cork end seals use some RTV to get a good seal there. Be careful when torquing the intake, those bolts going straight down create a wedging action and you could crack the manifold if you get gorilla with the bolts.
     
    Desoto291Hemi likes this.
  3. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 9,831

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    I'm not a Ford person but those gaskets look wrong for your intake port size.
     
  4. Marty Vanin
    Joined: Feb 22, 2017
    Posts: 74

    Marty Vanin
    Member

    Those gaskets do look wrong. Measure your ports and order new gaskets with the right size openings.
     

  5. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 4,193

    Fordors
    Member

    Look at the position of the gaskets, they have slid down onto the studs the OP has put in the heads and are obstructing the top of the ports. If they are raised up and cemented in place they will fit fine.
     
    Desoto291Hemi likes this.
  6. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 956

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    Not disagreeing, but the picture is a bit tricky. The gasket itself is gray, so it blends in with the metal. If they are raised up, the bottom portion will overlap the water passage.
     
  7. RmK57
    Joined: Dec 31, 2008
    Posts: 2,137

    RmK57
    Member

    Try swapping them around end for end or from side to side? If that don't work go to another gasket manufacturer. Torque on 3/8 coarse bolt should be around 25 lbs.
     
    Bob Lowry likes this.
  8. junkyardjeff
    Joined: Jul 23, 2005
    Posts: 8,233

    junkyardjeff
    Member

    I used them on a 302 and had problems with them sitting too low and sucking oil out of the lifter area and causing the engine to run lean eventually causing a burnt valve,used Felpro OEM style that hooks to the head gaskets and much better.
     
    gary macdonald and Bob Lowry like this.
  9. junkyardjeff
    Joined: Jul 23, 2005
    Posts: 8,233

    junkyardjeff
    Member

    And do not use their intake bolts,they are junk and a couple broke torwuong them to specified torque.
     
  10. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 9,831

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    I'm looking at how well coolant ports to gasket line up very well as compared to intake ports.
     
  11. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 4,193

    Fordors
    Member

    I would rather make sure there was no vacuum leak at the ports, that slight overlap at the water ports will be of no consequence. Raise them enough to get a decent seal at the bottom of the intake ports, trim the bottom of the water port opening if it bothers you.
     
  12. yellow dog
    Joined: Oct 15, 2011
    Posts: 494

    yellow dog
    Member
    from san diego

    Mr Gasket offers a half dozen different part Nos for the Windsor w/ different size port cutouts.
    Felpro does the same, so you probably need about a 2.10 x 1.20 to get a bit more seal area.
    Make sure your exhaust crossover metal is seated well in the gasket and I wouldn't even mess w/
    the cork valley gaskets, just lay a silicone bead
     
    Johnny Gee likes this.
  13. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 956

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    I should not be seeing internal vacuum in the crankcase, correct?

    Even if something stupid happened like a timing chain slipped a tooth?

    If anything it should be pressurized....right?
     
  14. yellow dog
    Joined: Oct 15, 2011
    Posts: 494

    yellow dog
    Member
    from san diego

    I think your low manifold vacuum confirms that you have a manifold leak. I've only seen external
    leaks, where these are easily confirmed by bleeding propane along the edge of the manifold and
    observing for an RPM rise. Gaskacinch as noted above is excellent especially in the "procedure"
    that provides a level of assurance.
     

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