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Technical 302 block dipstick dimensions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Chucky, Apr 13, 2020.

  1. So folks, I need some help. I’m building a 1966 Correct Craft inboard ski boat. Like a dummy, I didn’t figure out this crap before I installed the engine in the boat. Now, I’m up a creek without a paddle. What I’m hoping you all could help with is this... When using the threaded hole in the block on a 302 Ford...and only being able to measure from the outside of the block... How far does the dipstick tube go into the block? And... How far does the dipstick go in? Because this is a boat, and the engine is at a angle, the “level” is going to be “custom”. But, at least, I would like to know the factory dimensions and I will make adjustments to the marks as needed. My engine has a rear sump pan on it, if that matters??? Thank you!!! FWIW...I’m going to add a “known” volume of oil, and then mark my dipstick. I just don’t know how far to install the tube and how far beyond the tube does the actual stick extend???
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  2. fastcar1953
    Joined: Oct 23, 2009
    Posts: 3,567

    fastcar1953
    Member

    Cut off both the same length. Should still measure the same. mark new full level and done.
     
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  3. gnichols
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 11,345

    gnichols
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

    You have the right idea. Fill the pan with the correct amount of oil. Put in your dip stick. When you pull it out it will automatically be marked for full. Scribe a line just above the oily part. A small angle to the engine shouldn't matter much.
     
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  4. fastcar1953
    Joined: Oct 23, 2009
    Posts: 3,567

    fastcar1953
    Member

    guess i misread the question. my bad.
     
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  5. If you have the correct amount of oil in the pan, and the dipstick tube is adjustable, then just push it in until in reads full and stop.

    Now post a picture of the boat.
     
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  6. That makes sense. I like that idea.

    CD909D90-7D72-468F-84B1-18AD49724802.jpeg
     
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  7. gnichols
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 11,345

    gnichols
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

    I see.... First off, when this is all worked out in the end, how are you going to secure the exposed portion of the dipstick tube to the engine if it doesn't have a bead / O ring on it to prevent you from accidentally pushing it in the hole? Or pulling it out? If it doesn't stay in place then your readings could be false in the future no matter how careful you are now. Needs to seal well, too.

    You may have to consider getting a proper one first. They aren't that expensive. Some tubes have an additional brace on them that bolts to the block in another location, making the whole deal very stable.

    Regarding the length of tube above the block / pan, make sure that it is long enough so that when you want to grab the handle on the dipstick to check your oil that you don't burn your hands on the headers! You might have to do this some day out on the water and won't have the luxury of waiting until the motor cools down if you have a really short / low mounted handle that you can't reach easily.

    Guessing here, I don't think it has to go inside the pan very far, just enough to be stable.

    Calibrating it should be easy. In one instance, instead of cutting off the end because it was too long, we cut / rewelded the upper dipstick at the handle end. That way we retained the fancy high / low stampings on the working end.
     
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  8. gnichols
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 11,345

    gnichols
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

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  9. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,795

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I didn’t have a dip stick for a GMC 6 I was building. With the pan level sitting on the bench I filled it with 6 qts of water to see how much above the oil pump pick up it was. Easy to see on the engine with no pan.
    I found that Danchuk 57 Chev V8 dip stick had a seal gasket top and a sliced part near the top to keep it in. Of course it was way too long.
    After assembly I cut it so it did not hit the bottom, put 5 qts in and made a mark, then added one more qt and a file mark. After a 20 minute break in found it about 1/2 qt low after filling internal engine parts.
    Won’t help here but it’s a way to find something that will work.
     
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  10. Good info / Thanks all! That’s the other thing, I shouldn’t really “mark the stick” until after the initial run, drain and re-fill. I’m thinking I should add a valve to the drain port too.
     
  11. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,588

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

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  12. ^^^^^Ummmm......YES! That is great!^^^^^ I appreciate ALL the input. Where would we be without the HAMB?

    And...(clearing throat noises & a little bit of coughing:rolleyes:)...
    @Johnboy34 / your dipstick is hanging out. Like, nearly 6” dude.:D
     
  13. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,588

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

    It is what it is, just what you asked for.
    It's all the way in at the top. 89 5.0 GT.

    Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2020
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  14. For a later model block that you have what Johnboy34 showed you is the correct dipstick tube. With an aftermarket tube you can safely insert it the full 2 1?4 Inches. The hole is not threaded on an automobile block unless you tapped it or had it tapped, Marine blocks may be tapped IDK. That being said you should still add the 5 full quarts and remark your dipstick when you have the engine installed at the angle. The pick up will be in the rear sump and submerged. I would not overfill it as it could potentially cause rear main seal leakage and that in the water is not good. $15,000 fine in some States along with jail time and cost of clean up that you do not want.
     
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