300 cu. inch big six in a 1953 ford pickup

looking good man! Don't worry about the stock front axle. Independent suspension may be nice but beam axles have been around a LOOOOONG time! Just make sure your kingpins & other suspension pieces are good with a good brake rebuild & you'll have a low maitenance front end for years.

 

I swapped in a 300 six/M5R2 in my '61 Unibody. I'm using an elec fan so I was able to nudge a bit closer to the radiator. I'm running a Holley 390, Offenhauser manifold, later factory split exhaust manifold, 3:70 gears, and am getting a consistent 18mpg. I REALLY like this combo. It's perfect for the way I drive (gramps) but is plenty fast when I need it.


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

I put a 79 300 inline 6 in my 56 ford pickup, I used a 95 f150 5spd trans, made my motor to frame mounts, also used 76-79 radiator from f 150, with 3.92 rear I have power and with overdrive I can drive on major highway easily

 

What material did u use to make ur mounts and how did you attach them to the frame?



Brute strength and ignorance can overcome any mechanical problem. (not)

 

i believe that mounts would not have to be made for this swap, it all could be done with junkyard parts. follow me here...

all "P" series step-vans from 1953-1977 were based on the same frame and retained the 3-point mounting.

"P" vans started using 240 and 300 engines in 1965. the parts book illustrations show a front mount under the balancer and 2 mounts at the bellhousing.

go find a 6-cylinder 65-77 P100 - P350 and get the bellhousing and the front mount. pulleys would probably be in the right place too.

your 3+1 trans would bolt up to that bellhousing


bellhousing shown in this illustration...

 

I'm pretty sure the offenhauser intake will fit the fi head. But if you can find a head from the 60s they have adjustable valve train and bigger valves. A 240 head will have a smaller combustion chamber too.

 

Okay. Ford gods I hope your listening. My truck is headed to the powder coating company tomorrow and I have a dilemma. The knobs on the dash panel that control the lights and wipers won't come out! How do I take these out? Any info is appreciated.


Brute strength and ignorance can overcome any mechanical problem. (not)

 

There should be a small button on the light switch that you can push in and it will allow you to pull the switch knob and shaft out. Then the bezel will unscrew. The wipers should be on a cable, there should be a nut on the back side holding the cable to the dash. The knob may also unscrew from the cable, but I don't remember exactly.

 

Thanks for the info. Truly appreciated. Truck is now at the powder coating company being sand blasted and primered. Will be done by next Monday. Also I picked up the 9/16 bolts to plug the emissions holes in the head today and loosely fitted them. Thank you fastenal!


Brute strength and ignorance can overcome any mechanical problem. (not)

 

Have you tried The Ford Truck Enthusiasts - FTE- web site. They have a section devoted to the older trucks. And the 300 swap is common enough....

 

FYI, Chebby 250 six banger rockers bolt right on & yield a little extra rocker ratio. Stock rockers would be fine if using a performance cam.

 

New zf five speed trans for me!


Brute strength and ignorance can overcome any mechanical problem. (not)

 

Right on man! Keep on truckin'!

 

Ok sorry for not having much updates lately. Thought u might like to see where the truck is at progress wise. After all the purchases made lately for this truck I haven't been able to get parts and accessories to fit the engine and trans in the truck yet for test fitting however.


Brute strength and ignorance can overcome any mechanical problem. (not)

 

I've got the exact same motor and trans combo in my 55 F250. I don't know why people say its too long or that you'll have to move the radiator. Fits just fine.

Drives great. I love the ZF too. Overdrive helps but still not great on the highway with the stock 4.86 rear. That'll change soon hopefully.

 

Looks great Gary! Hopefully I'll get my ducks in a row here soon and get my engine and transmission mounted.


Brute strength and ignorance can overcome any mechanical problem. (not)

 

You could use the motor mounts and towers out of a 66-79 and use a piece of box tubing to catch the lower ends of the towers. Also the towers are the same for the FE motors but (if I remember correctly) the driver side one is moved forward. I have a 300 in my 66 crew cab with a 425 cfm Holley carb and headers with dual exhaust. Talk about livening a motor up!

 

Thanks for the input but most likely will just get my hands on an aftermarket crossmember designed for an FE for the engine to rest on that way I don't have to do cutting or welding. Just some drilling. As far as the transmission goes however, I have no idea on how to support it. To be honest, haven't put much thought into it yet.


Brute strength and ignorance can overcome any mechanical problem. (not)

 

Here's the crossmember you need.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-4037/overview/

You will also need a pair of motor mounts for a 300 from a 70's Ford truck ( actually 65-79 ) . Doesn't really matter what year. Or just tell the parts guy you need a pair of motor mounts for a 1978 F150 2wd truck with a 300.

And personally I prefer the Offenhauser C-series intake over the DP. The DP has a divided runner set up. Which just restricts the flow. Why spend almost $300 on an intake with restricted runners? The 300 has some large cylinders. It has no problems with the C-series intake.

A lot of people also recommend the Holley 390 cfm 4V carb. I prefer a carb larger then 390 cfm's. A 300 has no problems running a 500-600 cfm carb. How many 302 V8's do you see running a 390 cfm 4V carb?

 

Good info to know. I was led to believe the dual port intake improved mileage at low rpms but I'm not sure. Whatever intake I choose it will be topped with 600 cfm edelbrock 1406 carb. As far as the mount goes, I'm sure the one in ur link would work, but I've had my eyes on one that is designed to directly bolt into my truck from LMC Truck.


Brute strength and ignorance can overcome any mechanical problem. (not)

 

Hey it's your money run whichever intake you want. I've ran them both on the same vehicle and I won't waste my money on the DP.

You realize that LMC crossmember is the same crossmember. You are just going to pay $30.00 more for it. Call LMC and ask them who manufactures their crossmember. I bet you it's a Trans-Dapt crossmember. From the looks of it all their swap mounts are Trans-dapt parts. And the one I linked to is designed to bolt right into a 53-64 Ford truck.

 

Wow had no idea it was the same crossmember. Thanks for letting me know. You got to learn something new everyday to be productive though. Sounds like it doesn't make much of a difference efficiency wise whether I go dual port or not. I guess that means I will buy a c series when I get to that point in the build. When am I going to learn not to be so stubborn and listen to the people who actually know what they are doing. Lol. Hope this 16 year old didn't offend you in any way I realize your just trying to help.


Brute strength and ignorance can overcome any mechanical problem. (not)

 

Update: one step closer to getting the motor running! Here's a pic of the intake manifold I just received:


Brute strength and ignorance can overcome any mechanical problem.

 

Got my carb today! 600cfm edelbrock 1406. Just one step closer to firing it up.


Brute strength and ignorance can overcome any mechanical problem.

 

First mock up of engine


New front disc brake kit


Drilling motor mounts


Transmission crossmember fabricated


Disc/drum master cylinder mocked up


New Dana 60 with 3.55 gears put in place. Also undercoated the frame.


Painted the master cylinder


Engine in its final resting place.


Fabbed up new rear brake hose mount.


Bent some round stock for my shifter handle.


Brute strength and ignorance can overcome any mechanical problem.

 

. Nice truck and clean work. I did run a warmed up 300 with a ZF and loved it. I had a 4.10 gear and the only thing I didn't really like was the torque curve on the Comp 260 cam. It moves the curve up 400 rpm or so and you loose some of that good 300-6 low end grunt.

 

I never cared much for the first gear ratio of the M5OD since its almost a granny gear and most of the time started out in second,I am going to use one in a future project but it have 2.75 or 3.00 gears so it wont act much like a granny gear and just use 5th when going 75 down the highway.

 

Interesting thread. Thanks for the info and pics. Your project it well thought out and well executed. Your master cylinder is mounted to the firewall. (Been there done that on a 55 F100). The firewall is not designed to take the forces generated by applying the brakes. Without bracing, mine flexed quite a bit. Have you addressed bracing on the inside of the cab? Your front rotors are 8 lug. Are you going to upgrade the rears to 8 lug also, or run 2 different bolt patterns? If your project continues forward with the same thinking and attention to detail, you will wind up with a very, very nice ride.

 

16 years old ? Unbelievable. Great truck. Great thread. Love the 300 six and transmission choice. Parts, parts, as far as the eyes can see. You will really like how it runs in that little truck, for sure.

 

Nice work on the 300. Good fitment. Keep going.