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Projects 30 Model A pickup Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by SJR, Jan 14, 2013.

  1. SJR
    Joined: Feb 17, 2011
    Posts: 126

    SJR
    Member

    So this is my truck Ive had since I was 13 its something my brother had had and my dad had gotten back in the 50s, it was originally a Phathen, 4 door touring car,


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    this was back in 99, since then its been tore all apart,

    and Im now starting a new build

    heres the parts

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    goin with a Datsun engine and tranny and Toyota rearend, doesnt look like much, want to build or find a closed cab and Ill use the best front fenders I have, the frame and fenders are from a coupe I had yearsa ago that I sold,been lookinat alll the ways to lower this thing, I have stock 40 ford axles and wheels, lookin at how to mount up the front and rear suspension to lower it,
     

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  2. SJR
    Joined: Feb 17, 2011
    Posts: 126

    SJR
    Member

    plan is to have a all weather small truck thats reliable and gets good gas mileage, thats why the 4 banger engine L20B which in stock form produced 110 HP , better then the stock A or first flathead V-8, Ill probably make my own box for the rear
     
  3. SJR
    Joined: Feb 17, 2011
    Posts: 126

    SJR
    Member

    made progress today


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  4. Okie Pete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2008
    Posts: 3,383

    Okie Pete
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Good start on your project.
     

  5. SJR
    Joined: Feb 17, 2011
    Posts: 126

    SJR
    Member

    figure Ill clamp the fenders to the frame and mounts, not sure best way to fix them, thought I would put a piece in behind and mig weld them up, any thoughts?

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  6. SJR
    Joined: Feb 17, 2011
    Posts: 126

    SJR
    Member

  7. SJR
    Joined: Feb 17, 2011
    Posts: 126

    SJR
    Member

    mo images

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  8. I prefer O/A welding in a patch.
     
  9. SJR
    Joined: Feb 17, 2011
    Posts: 126

    SJR
    Member

    at first i was going to box the stock frame to make it stronger, im going to run fenders and running boards and got lookin at it and decided to build a sub frame and bolt it to the frame and weld all the mounts to it, engine mounts, rear toyota spring yes both of them, and it would b hidden anyway and be quick and easy, and at a later day I could remove the stock frame and just run the sub frame for a 4" lower look, goal is to get it road worthy as quick as possible start using it and make improvements as I go along, if this project doesnt go quickly Ill probably set it aside , so goal is to get it on the road and use it
     
  10. VoodooTwin
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 3,455

    VoodooTwin
    Member
    from Noo Yawk

    Cut out the damaged section and butt-weld a patch in.
     
  11. redstraw
    Joined: Apr 8, 2011
    Posts: 53

    redstraw
    Member
    from tn

    should be a cool little truck some of the best builds start out as just a bunch of old parts. good luck ill be watching.
     
  12. OoltewahSpeedShop
    Joined: Oct 18, 2007
    Posts: 3,103

    OoltewahSpeedShop
    Member

    I'm SURE someone would trade you a nice closed cab and probably a bed for that Phaeton stuff.
     
  13. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    I think the Datsun drivetrain is a good idea, especially in something you want to drive a lot with todays up and down gas prices.

    Don
     
  14. flatout51
    Joined: Jul 26, 2006
    Posts: 1,006

    flatout51
    Member

    If you plan on running your spindles backwards like that you'll need to heat and bend your steering arms out for correct Ackerman... Looks cool can't wait to see it come together!
     
  15. Shaun1162
    Joined: Feb 22, 2010
    Posts: 819

    Shaun1162
    Member

    Looks like its going to be a neat project... Always thought one of those little Yota rearends would work good in a project like this (even though it is Japanese)... Probably has pretty good highway gears in it too. What're you doing for rear suspension? Buggy spring set-up?
     
  16. Beau
    Joined: Jul 2, 2009
    Posts: 1,883

    Beau
    Member

    I figured he just put the axle backwards for mock up.

    Looks good.
     
  17. SJR
    Joined: Feb 17, 2011
    Posts: 126

    SJR
    Member

    only thing I got is the cowl and the between doors door jam things

    I wondered about that,so they are not semetrical
     
  18. Beau
    Joined: Jul 2, 2009
    Posts: 1,883

    Beau
    Member

    Wait, you are running the steering arms facing forward? That's just goofy.
     
  19. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,615

    55willys
    Member

    Ackerman is how your inside tire will turn sharper than the outside one. To get this correct you make a line from your king pin to the center of the rear end and the steering arm hole where the tie rod end attaches should be on that line. If the tie rod is in front it still has to be on that line projected forward but what usually happens is that the backing plate gets in the way of the steering arm. Hope this explains what the are talking about.
     
  20. SJR
    Joined: Feb 17, 2011
    Posts: 126

    SJR
    Member

    today
    figured out what direction I want to go with the front axle, wasnt sure till I fit all the parts up I want to drop the front low for a fendered rig using stock ford parts I already have, not sure the year on the front axle , its got cross steer and I have a 40' colum and box, I took the stock A spring apart and using my press recurved it with a reversed eye, and took 4 leafs out, I will be bringing the front crossmember back a bit to keep the axle close to stock to look ok in the fender,
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  21. SJR
    Joined: Feb 17, 2011
    Posts: 126

    SJR
    Member

    and the engines all mounted to the sub frame, 2 front mounts and rear tranny mount,
     
  22. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,615

    55willys
    Member

    The axle looks to be 37-40 with round back spindles. If you can find a stock model A axle those spindles can be used on it, the advantage of the A axle is that the perch centers are closer together and this will give you more turning radius without the tire contacting the split wishbone. You can also drop an A axle 4" and use the stock front cross member as it is. If you put the spring behind, it will interfere with the tie rod and if you put the tie rod in front you will have ackerman problems and dangerous steering. If you need more info on this stuff PM me or call (360)-536-1441 Jim Ford (55willys).
     
  23. SJR
    Joined: Feb 17, 2011
    Posts: 126

    SJR
    Member

    [​IMG]
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    Last edited: Feb 8, 2013
  24. voodoo1
    Joined: Jun 27, 2007
    Posts: 452

    voodoo1
    Member

    You had me untill you made it a R%$t rod... Mike
     
  25. SJR
    Joined: Feb 17, 2011
    Posts: 126

    SJR
    Member

    goin with the cowl off my tractor

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  26. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,776

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

    maybe its just me, but all the pics are red x
     
  27. Probably for the better..
     
  28. FORDY 6
    Joined: Oct 8, 2002
    Posts: 1,497

    FORDY 6
    Member

    Progress...'79 Postal Jeep cab...???
     
  29. voodoo1
    Joined: Jun 27, 2007
    Posts: 452

    voodoo1
    Member

    Are you going to use the roller chair in the last pic as your seat? Mike
     
  30. SJR
    Joined: Feb 17, 2011
    Posts: 126

    SJR
    Member

    no way. Im using a bench seat out of a caravan, Guys I have no cab, I wish I did, Im building this thing on a tight budget and using what I already have around the place, then its done my family will think its a model A , but the traditionalist will know theres a few differences thanks, when its done it will just be an old truck with modern conveniances , and it will be driven and used as a truck, it will be no show piece, just a fun old rig that I will trust to drive anywhere, I know this is just another build thread and who cares anyway, but I care because its me and its mine and when its done I will enjoy it Scott
     

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