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Technical 30 Model A Firewall Removal.

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by chev34ute, Dec 8, 2018.

  1. chev34ute
    Joined: Nov 13, 2011
    Posts: 426

    chev34ute
    Member
    from batlow

    Hey Guys !

    Has anyone posted up here before about how to do this ? I need to remove one in the next few days and I am not sure what bit I need to drill out the welds or indeed how many need to be drilled through.
    Any help is appreciated !
     
  2. I wanna say I used a 1/4 bit on the last one I pulled.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  3. 1940Coupe
    Joined: Aug 16, 2017
    Posts: 180

    1940Coupe

    There are about half a dozen or so spot welds Running down the side of each cowl.
    Also some rivets and spot welds on the front lower corners.
    It’s all pretty straightforward if you just take the time to have a look before jumping straight in.
    I’d never done one before and it took me about half an hr to remove mine
     
  4. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 2,307

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    '40 has that right...
    I paint the rivet channel black, then lightly sand... leaves the spot welds black... easy to find when you have the drill in hand..
    there are a couple holes through the A pillar lower support and the subfloor extensions... one is square one had a rivet...
    I would tighten a nut and bolt through them as they help hold stuff where it needs be...
    I should have tacked in a cross brace or 2 as the cowl and toe boards get a little flimsy when the firewall is removed.
    I would measure for square before I tacked them in...
    I removed most of the tank face where they meet...
    a full reverse pulls the firewall way back, removing the outer 1" flange on the firewall was a better fit and still a big help with bellhousing clearance... HIH.
     
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  5. Get a couple spot weld bits from HF,cheap and work pretty good.
     

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