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Projects 30 Ford coupe build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Fitnessguy, Oct 18, 2015.

  1. Fitnessguy
    Joined: Sep 28, 2015
    Posts: 2,020

    Fitnessguy
    Member

    looking for some more feedback here on the grille insert. the one that came with the car is in great condition but does need a rechrome which i was given a quote today of anywhere from $700-1600 depending on the condition that they determine the steel is in. you can buy a repop for: http://www.est1946.com/and821732fordgrilleinserts.aspx
    from so cal as an example. any feedback on the quality of the repops? again, i would love to use original but this is a pretty hefty price difference. i spend that kinda money getting the original redone then i am going to be paranoid driving the car and worrying about that grille! :eek:
     
  2. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,278

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    Nope.
    Just like marrying a woman for money instead of the good bedroom time.
    Can't beat a manual in a real Hotrod. This will keep your attention span going.
     
  3. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,378

    31Apickup
    Member

    Original inserts are painted and have a stainless surround. I'd clean it up and paint it.
     
    nunattax and whodatsCJ7 like this.
  4. Fitnessguy
    Joined: Sep 28, 2015
    Posts: 2,020

    Fitnessguy
    Member

    painted, really i didnt know that but makes sense. i have the stainless surround too. good to know. i will take a good look at it again then. thanks for that
     
  5. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,378

    31Apickup
    Member

    Hey I just saved you a grand? I'm also building a A coupe on a 32 frame, so look forward to following your progress.
     
  6. Fitnessguy
    Joined: Sep 28, 2015
    Posts: 2,020

    Fitnessguy
    Member

    Yes you did! Thanks from a northern brother! With you being in Washington I am assuming you have been to the Portland swap meet before? I haven't been but a buddy wants to go next year, worth going? You have a build thread going?
     
  7. Fitnessguy
    Joined: Sep 28, 2015
    Posts: 2,020

    Fitnessguy
    Member

    Played with fitting the insert in the shell and the shell is a little tight as you can see by these pics. Took both down to some friends body shop and the opened the ends up a little gently with a porta power today as initially it wouldn't even go in. Still needs to go some ways so we were chatting about what would be the best solution to getting a good fit and nice even gaps all around. We seem to think/agree that cutting in half and adding a section in the middle would be the most effective way to accomplish. Anyone had this same experience and find a good solution? We don't want roll the ends to open it up so we don't lose the main profile if that makes sense. These guys are all veteran car guys with nice rides of their own so I trust their judgment but always nice to get more feedback. I can get another shell cheap for the donor parts so not too much cost there. Thoughts? ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1448074360.293650.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1448074375.166439.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1448074388.637838.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1448074399.626726.jpg
     
    Jeff34 likes this.
  8. GordonC
    Joined: Mar 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,150

    GordonC
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Interesting problem on your grill shell. I have the same issue with my reproduction shell. The grill fits so tight if it was painted it would ruin the paint trying to put the grill in. I had two thoughts on repairing it. The first is the same as you have done with the port a power. I thought maybe I might be able to stretch/tweak it out a bit in the very middle. Sounds like there might not be much give in that direction. The other thing I am considering is taking a zip disc and cutting it horizontally part of the way through approximately half way up either side of the grill shell, looking at it face on. Not all the way in half but part way through. I was then going to see if the port a power would be able to give it a bit of a stretch. I figure if it moves just a bit it would be like making a small pie cut from front to back which I could then weld up. Even if I only get 1/16 of an inch of relief that should be enough to let the grill drop in without forcing it.

    Hope this helps.
     
  9. Fitnessguy
    Joined: Sep 28, 2015
    Posts: 2,020

    Fitnessguy
    Member

    So wondering if anyone has a suggestion on the type of paint to paint the rad. I wanted the performance advantage of aluminum but don't want the look so will be painting black. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1448253789.001246.jpg
     
  10. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,348

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    A couple of options... There is a few threads on the subject and Eastwood makes it for the purpose in flat or gloss.
    http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-radiator-black-paint.html
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/ok-to-paint-an-aluminum-radiator-black.712059/
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/painting-an-aluminum-radiator.990310/
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-aluminum-radiator-cooling-efficiency.151362/
     
    loudbang likes this.
  11. Fitnessguy
    Joined: Sep 28, 2015
    Posts: 2,020

    Fitnessguy
    Member

    Great, thanks stogy!
     
  12. IronTrap
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 510

    IronTrap
    Member

    Our Radiator black was formulated to give the correct "sheen" as found on classic cars especially 30's-40's cars. I use it on all of my builds to hide an aluminum rad! P.S.- We're an alliance member
     
  13. Fitnessguy
    Joined: Sep 28, 2015
    Posts: 2,020

    Fitnessguy
    Member

    Thanks Matt I will get some ordered up
     
  14. Do ya think that if you grinded a little notch in the top of the insert, and folded it in a bit, that it would then slip in the frame?
     
  15. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,378

    31Apickup
    Member

    Only been in the PNW 2 yrs but went to the Portland swap meet both years it is huge. There are two swap meets, onevat the Expo and the other next door at the race track. You need a day for each.
     
  16. Fitnessguy
    Joined: Sep 28, 2015
    Posts: 2,020

    Fitnessguy
    Member

    didnt want to touch the insert at all as it is in such good shape besides needed to be repainted. after a lot of looking i think we are going to cut out the bottom and lengthen a little to give the room we need.
     
  17. Fitnessguy
    Joined: Sep 28, 2015
    Posts: 2,020

    Fitnessguy
    Member

    good to know. if our dollar stays soft, not sure if i will attend next year or not. would really like to go but i know if i go i will spend money!
     
  18. racer_dave
    Joined: Nov 16, 2012
    Posts: 206

    racer_dave
    Member

    cool build- will certainly follow along
     
  19. Fitnessguy
    Joined: Sep 28, 2015
    Posts: 2,020

    Fitnessguy
    Member

    Been working on the trunk and designing the floor. After humming around different ideas we decided to build a raised area by welding in the 1x1. We will put in separate pans in front of and behind and the have a piece that lays over top with a bit of a curve. Perhaps a little more complicated than needed to be but wanted to do our own thing. Looked at the "humps" you can buy but not a fan of the look. The front 1x1 will be the landing for the gas tank as well. Looking at it tonight I think I will build out more frame going towards the seat to support the tank better. Also got the hurst motor mount I bought off stogy this week. Sandblasted nice and clean. Not a lot of factory welds on it so thought I would throw a few more on. Needs to be able to handle the 700hp small block that it will be bolted to...... Okay probably more like 450, I don't want to get into too much trouble but still, a few more welds made me feel better AND I like my welder! Ha ha


    ATTACH=full]3066107[/ATTACH] ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1448513124.394058.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1448513153.442806.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1448513167.832557.jpg
     

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  20. Fitnessguy
    Joined: Sep 28, 2015
    Posts: 2,020

    Fitnessguy
    Member

    Progress report! Got the back trunk pan fitted and burned in today and built out more frame where the fuel tank is going to sit. We went with 16 gauge for the floor pans, perhaps a little overkill but with just the two beads we rolled in that pan, it has very little flex. The flat pan that will go on top of the raised frame we built will be removable. Was thinking fastening with heavy machine screws. Anyone have a better suggestion? Best part of the build still continues to be Sunday's doing this work with dad! He is having lots of fun though he wouldn't ever come out and say it. I get a little bit of work done during the week but not much between work and family. Would love to take a couple weeks off and see how much work I could accomplish in that time without interruption. You know you're an addict when you dream of taking time off to work on the car!


    ATTACH=full]3069294[/ATTACH] ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1448851393.310789.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1448851430.512559.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1448851462.445289.jpg
     

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  21. Fitnessguy
    Joined: Sep 28, 2015
    Posts: 2,020

    Fitnessguy
    Member

    Sorry forgot to mention the gas tank I am planning on getting from tanks inc. was going to go with this universal tank. Anyone use one of these or have any feedback on etc? ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1448852428.949053.jpg
     
  22. I'm curious about the gas tank too, I plan on using the same one. Build is looking good man!
     
  23. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,348

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Father and Son team...how cool is that.
     
  24. Like the tank.........might be a good one for me as well. Can't tell, but is your frame notched for the rear end. Mine was not and the way the straight rear cross member with the spring attached made the car set was not in my style. I put an A back in and C'd the frame to get the belt line back down to the top of my rear tires
     
  25. Fitnessguy
    Joined: Sep 28, 2015
    Posts: 2,020

    Fitnessguy
    Member

    yes the frame is notched in the back. We set the height of the 1x1 cross pieces based on the height of the notch so as the rear end travels up it would have to contact the frame at those notches to contact the pan with the elevated height gained by the 1x1. would love to do a Moon tank but cost and not being able to do an in tank pump eliminates that from the list.
     
  26. avmechanic
    Joined: Sep 6, 2010
    Posts: 40

    avmechanic
    Member

    Love model A coupes. Cool you are getting a chance to work with your Dad a bit. Looks like a fun project.
    Greg
     
  27. Fitnessguy
    Joined: Sep 28, 2015
    Posts: 2,020

    Fitnessguy
    Member

    Thanks Greg, yes besides always wanting a coupe, a big reason for the project was to be able to do it with Dad. He isn't getting any younger so want to do this while we still can.
     
  28. Fitnessguy
    Joined: Sep 28, 2015
    Posts: 2,020

    Fitnessguy
    Member

    Now..... I can finally claim I am really cool! ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1449010154.580799.jpg
     
    nunattax, whodatsCJ7, Cusco and 4 others like this.
  29. Now you need a new Tag Topper............just ordered mine this morning.
     
    Denns1989 likes this.
  30. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,378

    31Apickup
    Member

    Follow up from my earlier post, I haven't started a build thread yet, want to get a bit more progress. Currently working on the rear sub-rails. Also for swap meets the Monroe WA one in Oct & May are both really good ones, along with the early bird swap meet in Puyallup WA in February.
    Coupe 8-22-2015.jpg
     

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