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30 Closed cab Model A Pick-up help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Nick O, May 30, 2010.

  1. Nick O
    Joined: Feb 16, 2010
    Posts: 120

    Nick O
    Member
    from Ohio

    Not long ago I posted on this site asking for help on a 30 closed cab Model A pick up that I have owned for 46 years and at one time drove to high school for 3 years. The help was overwhelming for which I am greatly appreciative. Due to the HAMB I have found a gentleman to repair the cab and help me along with the project, my wish is to just drive this truck again as I think it would be really neat to drive a truck I once drove to high school that never left my ownership, I actually bought it when I was 13 years old. My questions are many and I just wanted to run ideas by you guys to see what you think and perhaps you could ofer some suggestions and better ideas. Here are my thoughts for this truck, I want to keep it simple and basically wind up with a roadworthy driver in primer. Full fendered, small block chevy, 350 turbo, 4" drop I-beam, triangulated 4 bar rear with coil overs,9" Ford rear, 2 " chop filled roof, saddle gas tank,block hugger headers,32 grill shell, 17" steelies rear 15" front steelies. I know I have left much out, but what are your thoughts am I on the right track, ideas??? What width rear housing and out of what car do i need to make sure the rear whells fit within the fender wells?? Standard width pu box with full rear fenders. Sorry to ramble on but I just thought with the wealth of knowledge here perhaps you guys could help prevent and issue before I make a mistake and wish afterwards that i would have done something diferent.
     
  2. First off, in my opinion you need to ditch the 17's and go with all 15's. And go with a '70's Ford Maverick Rear End. I have played the rear end game and found that the Maverick works best when running fenders. It measures 49" from backing plate to backing plate. Not to be confused with a Mustang Rear End because it measures 51" from backing plate to backing plate which will put your wheels out too far. A maverick Rear End will put your wheels right in the center of your rear fenders. Thus endeth the lesson. But seriously, ditch the 17's. That will look F'ing stupid.
     
  3. ***Area-51***
    Joined: Mar 25, 2005
    Posts: 716

    ***Area-51***
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Ohio

    pic out the tire / wheels you want, set them in the fenders where you want them and measure the distance between them.....

    take youre time.... measure , take notes, and measure again
     
  4. Dago 88
    Joined: Mar 4, 2006
    Posts: 2,136

    Dago 88
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Sounds good Nick, it might end up looking similar to mine, but mine has a 3" inch chop. Good luck with your project.
    Cheers Dago.
     

    Attached Files:


  5. Nick O
    Joined: Feb 16, 2010
    Posts: 120

    Nick O
    Member
    from Ohio

    Thanks a million, I will take your advice on the Maverick rearend. I will begin looking immediately. Thanks again, I was hoping for a few more responses and ideas but thanks a million .
     
  6. redo32
    Joined: Jul 16, 2008
    Posts: 1,870

    redo32
    Member

    Hey Nick, Kuddos for hanging on to that truck for 46 years. I got my sedan in '71 and still trying to find time to finish. You didn't say how much hands on you want to be involved in on the build. Do you have a shop & tools? If you don't have the fab tools & skills, might I suggest that you look into purchasing a ready built frame and chassis. There's some good nationally recognized shops in Ohio that could fix you up, Lobecks, Springfield, The Roadster Shop & Brookville to name a few. Now these "traditionalist" on here might give you their opinions on "pride of doing it all yourself", but lets face it, you've waited 40 years to drive it again & we ain't getting younger. Cash in some 401k and get this truck rolling. If you get busy ordering the crate motor, trans,radiator, steering col,wiring, gauges, gas tank and don't forget the wheels (17" if you like), you could have it running this fall & drive it with the patina'd body. How cool would that be? Then let the body man have it next winter while you paint & detail the chassis. I know big talk coming from the "champion procrastinator", but I broke down & bought a running car last year.
     
  7. 067chevy
    Joined: Sep 18, 2005
    Posts: 2,073

    067chevy
    Member

    I used the rear out of 67 mustang on the one I built last year.
     
  8. Nick O
    Joined: Feb 16, 2010
    Posts: 120

    Nick O
    Member
    from Ohio

    Thanks guys for all your help. I am new to the forum and maybe asking the type of questions I did was wrong, I dont know all the proper do's and dont's on a forum like this, but I was hoping for a few more responses than what I got. I see almost 200 views but only 6 responses. Just waited so long to do this old hotrod that I did not want to make a very obvious mistake that all the established hot rodders on here could easily see. Most likely will be the one and only hotrod I will ever build and just want it more right than wrong. I apologize if I was wrong in asking for some ideas, but like I said I am new to this stuff (computers and all) and I am not sure what is proper. Thanks Nick
     
  9. Nick O
    Joined: Feb 16, 2010
    Posts: 120

    Nick O
    Member
    from Ohio

    This is a picture of me with my 30 Model A taken 44 years ago.
     

    Attached Files:

  10. Doug B
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 478

    Doug B
    Member

    Nick, the trucks looks like it was pretty cool back in the day.Tell us about how it was set up back then,drivetrain etc.
     
  11. nutajunka
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 1,466

    nutajunka

    If it was a driver before, just freshen it up a bit and make sure the brakes are good. It would take you back in time, which with the ways things are going on now in the world, would be relaxing.
     

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