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3 speed shifter for Overdive trans

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by NONAME, Jun 12, 2012.

  1. problem, I have a truck with Grannie geared 4 speed. I also have a rebuilt GM 3 speed overdrive trans.

    to change the two I keep telling myself that I need lower gears in the nine inch. new drive shaft. but the real stickler has been a floor shifter that will work with the O.D.

    I was offered a bunch of parts that may or may not work! I've never been a believer in MAY NOT. so I took the parts and 3-4 hours later I have a working shifter.

    this isn't pretty and I have no idea what a factory or after market shifter looks like. but it didn't take more than a minute to figure out what I needed to do.

    my shop tools consists of a vice and a 28 year old mig welder and a makita 4 inch grinder plus the BFH (big hammer) and a die grinder with a cut off wheel

    this is my head start parts
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jun 12, 2012
  2. a big help was a homemade bracket that didn't fit this transmission but seemed like a good Idea. modifing it was easier than building a newer (cleaner ) version. it was hooked to a cheap shifter with some Hokey Assed shifter that I could have made work. but my friend with the parts threw in a Hurst Dual Gate Shifter with Sycro-Lock. I don't know what that all means but it was the better of the two shifters so I went with it.

    after whittling away all the metal that kept the bracket from fitting and beating it into shape it bolted to the top two bolts on the trans (that is laying on it's side )
     

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  3. is the O.D. activated with a solenoid ?.....it looks like you have it all figgered out....don't worry about how it looks...it's under the floorboards anyway...good job !!
     
  4. the black metal plate in the first photo had two holes that matched the Hurst shifter but nothing else. so I cut the bottom half off. the plan was to weld that plate to the mounting bracket. but it didn't really line up and I didn't want any binding issues. so I added and extra 1/4 inch to the offset. welded the plate to that then bolted the shifter to the plate.
    then I had to scratch my head a bit. the shift arms on the trans need to point up instead of down. seemed simple but upon inspection the pinch bolts at top and serrations at the bottom didn't make sense reversed

    damn time to go to work I'll need to finish this tonight
     

  5. after I finished this whole project I googled the Hurst dual gate shifter and they had photos of one made for O.D.and it not only sits high but it was way forward. It might have just been for the application (Studebaker) the shift rods were only 4-8 inches long.

    My truck is chopped, channeled and I sit way back in the cab so I moved the shift lever way back. I had it sitting higher then changed my mind and put it as low as possible and still clear all the bumps and protrusions on the trans. I installed the trans last night and it touches the power brake booster. so I've learned (for about the 10th time) that it is best to tack and trial fit. after I raise it back up I'll post the final fit.

    here are some more shots on the floor where it worked perfect. the first photo shows how I modified the levers. the rods had to cross each other and that didn't work so now they run straight back without interferrence.

    once again it's been 40+ years since I've messed with a floor shift. feels good.
     

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    Last edited: Jun 13, 2012
  6. this post might be retitled as how not to build a shifter. solve one problem and find another. It now clears the power brake booster and works fine. but I don't like the new location.
    so next I'm putting the body back on the frame, installing the steering column, gas pedal and seat before I alter it anymore. I'll be back this week end with the results. at least I'm moving in the right direction (I think)

    this Hurst dual gate shifter is slick as hell. you put it in 1st gear and the lever centers itself. so it is a straight line from 1st to 2nd. then straight line back to 3rd. elimanates the H pattern. smoth as butter. I'm spoiled already
     
  7. scrap metal 48
    Joined: Sep 6, 2009
    Posts: 6,079

    scrap metal 48
    Member

    Ain't hot rodding fun.. Keep at it....
     
  8. I can't quit while I'm having so much fun. I have my 17 year old grandson working with me. he has never worked on anything. still working on learning righty tighty
     
  9. overspray
    Joined: Jan 14, 2003
    Posts: 1,417

    overspray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Here's some pictures and info on the original Hurst overdrive shifter. A picture is worth.......

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=668159&highlight=hurst+overdrive

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=520963&highlight=hurst+overdrive
     
  10. That bent rod for the 1-R would let it mount lower but my power brake booster forced me up and forward. A search might have got me into more trouble.
     
  11. 5 days and many mistakes, it's done. it works fine. I'm happy
    I started and had it on the floor and working in just a couple hours. the biggest problem I had was clearing the power brake booster. then the foor on a chopped channeled truck. I sit way back and had to be able to reach the shifter. then it was a broken drill bit. you name it. I always say the 6th time is the charm

    in the end I have to give credit to oversprays photo for the final edition. bending the shift rods hadn't entered my head and I didn't have sense enough to check other sources
     

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