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3 2GC's a weepin'

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Marshall Metal Shaping, Jul 1, 2011.

  1. A stock pump is typically set at between 4 and 6 lbs. 11 lbs is out of any factory set up. Sounds like a pump problem. Remember, no tri power factory cars used regulators..
     
  2. Piewagn
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,492

    Piewagn
    Member

    Ya know, that's what always puzzled me about mine. I have since replaced the AC fuel pump ( 11 psi ) simply because of the age factor, but still needed the regulator. That's why I went to the literature after the initial install. Well that's all irrelevant now, since my cam is going flat!! Haven't moved the truck in almost a year........
     
  3. cooger
    Joined: Nov 5, 2008
    Posts: 233

    cooger
    Member

    Wippet and I agree, no factory trips ever used a fuel regulator. BTW, Charlie Price recommends the regulator since he MODIFYS the 2GC's on his systems. IF this is a homebrew then the stock 2GC should be peachy with a stock pump. The ends should never even know about pressure if the float level is right ---set them a little lower than called for in the rebuild sheet.
    Now, go drive.
    cooger
     
  4. Hi Rabid

    I agree with you re: pressure regulation...should be no need. I am seeing weaping at the boss that seperates the throttle bores, originating at the venturi cluster.Are you saying that even the smallest throttle shaft or plate leak will cause fuel to be drawn? I have lowered fuel level with no real effect. You should be able to bring in the secondaries earlier than 3/4 throttle....no? As long as the secondaries are not engaged in cruise or just off idle position. Currently they come in at half throttle and work great.
    Like I said before only problem is load-up at a light and occasional surging at cruise position. I should add that I have no idle issues common to a vaccum leak, the primary carb is very sensitive to idle air adjustments.

    Thanks Guys!
    P.S. If you grab the secondaries(on their own) and engage the accelorator pumps...ZOOM..ZOOM
     
  5. Hey Guys
    For those interested I finally got around to putting a gauge on the stock NAPA mechanical replacement pump.....9 to 11 pounds!!!
    If you or anyone is having problems don't assume the pump is correct ...test it!
    I have a gauge and a regulator coming.
    Thanks
     
  6. gonzo
    Joined: Dec 24, 2003
    Posts: 1,876

    gonzo
    Member

    Thanks for the udate!!
     
  7. I'm with piewagon on this one. I had all of the above problems with mine and ordered a pair of Charlie's end bases and installed a regulator and set it at 4 psi and it now runs like a dream. My biggest problem was air leaking at the old base plates and that was drawing fuel in, not much but enough to cause it to load up and foul plugs. The biggest single factor for a bad running tri-power set up is the end base plates leaking air. get that fixed and the rest is just tweaking them in. At least that's what worked for me.
     

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  8. Pontiactripower.com
    Joined: Jul 15, 2010
    Posts: 4

    Pontiactripower.com
    Member

    It is true that "back in the day," stock fuel pumps would not overwhelm the floats on a tripower setup. However, quality control being what it is today, stock fuel pumps often supply too much fuel pressure for a tripower. Think about where these fuel pumps are made...

    I restore many tripowers each year, primarily Pontiacs. It is very common to have a customer insist he cannot have too much fuel pressure because he is running a stock mechanical pump. After trying everything else, he is eventually forced to check the fuel pressure. Not unusual to get 6-10# with a new pump.

    Mike Wasson
    www.pontiactripower.com
     
  9. It's about time you chimed in Mike. I let everyone know that you are the one to get Dag 213 to seal the front and rear base plates as close to 100% as you can get. Also Mike has the ball seats for the needle and seat repacement. the ball seat will never deteriorate from the additives that are in todays gas. I have been using them for 7 years now and they have never stuck or leaked!! Thanks again Mike!!!
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    Last edited: Aug 16, 2011
  10. What a small world! I happened across Mike on the net and will "see" him for the Dag 213 and the ball seats when the season is over. For now the car is running pretty good. I am going like a bastard doing the interior!

    Thanks guys!
     
  11. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,404

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    This is what I was taught too..

    Im not running anything but a stock SBC pump for my 3x2 2 jet Rochesters...I dont think they were ever regulated from the factory.
     
  12. oldskooljc
    Joined: Aug 4, 2009
    Posts: 812

    oldskooljc
    Member
    from Fresno CA.

    I know there are guys with much more experance than myself on this issue. But here is my 2 cents. Number one evey one is right abought secondary air leaks. you just can't have them period get rid of them. Now for the problem at hand. Dirt rust rubber from fuel hose. slivers of meteal from fittings fuel pumps or any foreign materal is a fuel systems number one enemey. Hell Ive even seen fule pumps come a part. A stock needel and seat have viton rubber tip very easy for something to get embeded. I use eather the grose needel and seat or the ball type. Also secondery floats I use the neoprell of fiber type as the weight is less and is more boyant. Fuel pumps stock like 62 chevy puckup or 1955 chevy not stock like corvette, camaro, SS, RS, HO, get my drift. My 62 Chevt PU pump has 5 lbs and works fine. thanks jim
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2011

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