The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Marty Strode, Dec 19, 2019.
I will show the modification to the housings tomorrow.
That is a bit of work that would likely go unnoticed by the casual observer.
Looking forward to what you do to finish up welding that “Z” area in the frame. Please show us the detail when you get that far.
As soon as I mount the fenders and box, to confirm the rear axle location, then the rear will get finished. With luck and a little help, maybe tomorrow.
One piece at a time.
Those injector tubes are just so intimidating!
Marty, you don't know how seeing those fenders on your RPU warms my heart. Thank you for respecting that Model A!
Don't know if it's been posted, but thought this was pretty cool!
I am looking for options on a currently available, NHRA legal, bellhousing, to couple a Ford Toploader trans to a Chevy. My plan is to use the McLeod in the car for the street package.
Marty maybe Quicktime? I couldn't find the spec sheets but here is the page. Lippy
Looking forward to updates on this build, my second favorite body style after a 40 deluxe, and the build style is spot on.
Dean's RPU is now in the U.K, and driven/raced a lot.
Lippy, I couldn't find what I thought was correct. I posted on the SEGA thread, maybe something will come up. Thanks
My two favorite pickups are 29 RPU and a 40, I am lucky to have both in the works.
Very nice, Buick engine looks good !
We need more threads like this, carry on.
Looking mean Marty!
What size tire are you going to run on the rear?
From the pictures it looks like the tires fit the rear fenders just right. That QC is nice. Always wanted one, never loosened up my wallet enough.
Dean: your RPU sure evolved from a nice Hot Rod cover car to a Mean Machine over the years! Were you still driving it on the street a lot?
Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Monday following the Winternationals win in '62, I drove it to school. It still got driven on the street some right up to when I parked it in '67. But not as much. I had to switch back and forth between the Hilborn njection and the twin WCFB's for the street. No electronics or computers in the 60's.
Bruce, I know you have seen this done many times, but for those interested, this is a little history as I know it. Back in the late 40's, racers wanting either floating rear axles or a stronger RF hub, along with wheels that are less likely to bend, due to the bolt circle closer to outside perimeter of the wheel, used parts off of a 39-41 Ford 3/4 ton truck. Since those models used the Timken rear axle, the spindle snouts, and hubs were pure gold. The Timken rear had one removable housing (Shown) that was the basis for the Champ Quickchange, that required 2 housings, except for the Frankland unit shown below, that Jim converted into a Quickchange. Later on, Frankland and others machined aftermarket bolt on snouts, that were copies of the Timken parts. To make the snouts bolt on V/8 housings, the (nubs) with external bearing surfaces need to be machined off and bored out to clear the larger axles. I my case, using the Halibrand side-plates to fit the V-8 housings to the Halibrand 301 center section, and wanting to maintain the spring stretch width to use a Model A spring, requires shortening. My old friend Lonnie Gilbertson did a masterful job, shortening the housings, while leaving the original spring hanger in place. As I remember, the amount removed from each housing was 1-9/16", to compensate for the wider center section, and the thickness of the side-plate.
Sam, I am thinking around 10-11"wide and 29-30" tall. What do you think ?
Marty, it's like you measured the slicks on my first RPU. You are right on the money!
Yes, thanx Marty. When you decide to keep the original spring hangers, the project gets a bit more complicated. With the tapered axle housings, the lack of a true axle center line, and that big old forging hanging off the back side, it takes a bunch of measuring and accurate machining to get it right.
Do you know if Lonnie parted the housing ends off in a lathe?
No wonder I can't find bolt on spindles. You've gt them all. As far as I know all the current aftermarket ones use a different bolt pattern (9" Ford). Even those are getting rare.
I would doubt that the ends were parted off in a lathe. He did an extra set for me, but they are already spoken for. If you need a pair of spindles, I can help you out, as I would like a pair of your side plates, maybe we can work out something. BTW if you look at the last picture I posted, we used a common weld on snout from Lefthander, and welded it on a laser cut plate, and machined it. I have a great lathe, 18X60, but I am short on machining skills, that's why I hang around talented people !
Don't have much to post other than a rant about my premium Walker Radiator. When it showed up in a very well padded box, with not a sign of damage, I was pleased. The first thing I encountered was my original grille shell was very tight at the fake filler neck, but I got it to slide on. I ordered chrome radiator and gas caps from Speedway, and the gas cap fit fine. When installing the radiator cap, it didn't want to screw on, I was careful not to force it. After measuring the neck of the radiator, I found it to be .070 thousands out of round, from the soldering process. My first thought was to attempt to squeeze it round with a pair of large channel locks (padded so as not to damage the external threads. As luck would have it, my Brother Tom was here, and suggested rounding it up from the inside with a beveled piece of wood. After a quick search of my remnants, I found a short chunk of brass, that I beveled in the lathe. A few taps from a dead blow hammer, and some anti seize on the threads, the cap fits fine. It's a shame that a $900.00 radiator should require this rework. Rant over, I will be back on this project next week !
dont have to tell you but great work marty!
I will take that compliment from a guy with a "Killer Comp Coupe".
And that is why I use Brassworks radiators.
Dean, over 20 years ago we had Brassworks build 3 radiators for the Track Roadsters, they were great. When I was looking for the 29, I read they had problems with leaking, and went with Walker, maybe a mistake.
Very cool project!
Sent from my SM-J337V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Separate names with a comma.