The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Marty Strode, Dec 19, 2019.
You would do better to copy, Dean Lowe, or Jim Stevens, then you won't have a "copy of a copy" !
Back on Black today. I hated to massacre that original firewall, but time is important, and I wanted the maximum engine setback, with a flat firewall.Next will come the transmission C/M, with a removable center to remove the trans, that will come tomorrow.
I made a minor adjustment to the angle of the engine, lowering the rear, to compensate for the carbs on the street engine. Laid out a template for the flanges on the trans mount,
Really enjoy this project so far. My favorite era of drag racing. Marty you seem to be going 24/7 on numerous projects at the same time. What kind of COFFEE do you drink cause I need to switch brands! lol Enjoy following your builds. Always inspiring . Larry
Those two piece ‘28-29 firewalls are a pain to fit a distributor or mag in, aren’t they? I just went through that with my roadster, I’m using an NOS W&H DuCoil. It’s a large diameter and you’ve gotta pull em way up to get it out of the block.
Love that cross-ram! Looking great so far.
Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Larry, I don't drink coffee at all, so I can't help you with that. At my age, I need to get these projects done, while I can enjoy them. Thanks for your interest ! BTW, I am fitting my '40 PU chassis for a rear stabilizer bar and shocks, before taking taking it apart for powder
Bob, my plan is to build the lower half of the firewall out of .063 aluminum, along with the tunnel. Dean, had this shot of his, showing the height of the cutout required to pull the mag. I will cross that bridge when I come to it. A friend gave me the Weiand cross ram, going to use 390 Holleys.
No cup holders? Lol
Just loving the 'skipping around' on projects, Marty! My shop dilemma is much the same, but health has slowed me down some.
The frame fab is great, I like the front tube treatment in the side rails. Box-like fitting of rear cross member, likewise. Goes together like an expensive jigsaw puzzle...
R/PU engine mounts are like art, subtly curved gussets all work into the final form.
Really catch the eye.
Firewall is a similar situation I'm having with my '27 T tub. Aluminum or modify the orig.? Thinking about trimming the original around its perimeter, (to retain the rear hood rest) and making a recessed aluminum flat that sits on 1/2" inner perimeter flange...screwed down, natch.
Typically Marty Strode, always coaxes me in, to see what's... Thanks!
Last thing I want to do is get you off track Marty.......but is that a Corvair with a big motor where the back seat should be......parked next to your RPU project ??
Mike, I would like to take credit for the frame and motor mounts, but they are a mass produced item, from the rear section forward. The trans mount would have been completed today except for time to pick up some yard art. I did get get the flanges for the C/M drilled, band sawed, and ground. Take care of your self, and stay at those projects !
Yes, it's a 1965, but an off topic build.
Got the trans C/M and mount fabbed and tacked in place. It was a long process, because I wanted the center to drop out, for repairs at the track. After sizing up the width and drop of the C/M, I made a full scale 1/2 drawing to calculate the bends required. I always work off of where the bend starts, and using cardboard templates of the specific tube diameter, and bending dies I have available, to make the layout. After figuring where the flanges needed to be, I cut the center out. With the flange thickness at 5/16"x 2= 5/8", that is how much the side tubes needed to be shortened to maintain the profile. Install is next.
With the side tubes trimmed at the proper angle, cutting out and bending the mounting plate was next. With it tacked in place, after a good look, it will be welded in. The next thing will be pulling it from the chassis jig, and putting it on wheels next week. Then the fun begins !!!!!
Got the chassis welded up (with the exception of the rear section) pulled it from the jig and swapped places with the Track Roadster. It will be a roller in a couple days.
Great Scott Marty! You got skills.
Thanks Billy, it's been a long day !
Wow, you have gotten more done in the last two months than I have in the last four years. And what you have gotten done is impressive!
Man oh man, just knocking it out. Crossmember came out great.
Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Bob, It will be triangulated fore and aft and tied into the ladder bar C/M. When I drop the clutch @ 7,000 I don't want any flex !
I dug out some suspension parts.
Love the hair pins Marty. They look just like Kurtis did them. You do 'em right my friend!
Dean, I bought those hairpins. I wanted a dropped tube axle like yours, and a buddy gave me this one, it's never been used. The plan is to cut the brackets off, and fab my own hairpins and spring hangers. Do you have any pictures showing the axle under yours ?
This is the best I can find Marty. Since the axle was built for a Kurtis sprint car, it has a dead perch on the left side. The drop and shape is very much like the one you posted. The bat wings are similar, but not exactly the same. Spindles are 39 Ford. Hope this is some help.
Thanks Dean, Keith Randol put a dead perch on the Orange Crate when he built it, about the same time Frank did yours. Looks like the tube axle I have, is very similar to yours, that's what I will use.
Here's a another picture of Dean's axle, where you can see the dead perch. I came across this in an old magazine I just got.
Thanks Rich, that helps.
Don't even remember where that was taken.
It was a thrash, but I got the rear axle in place and on wheels today, had to get the starter rebuilt on the fork lift to get the QC off the wall.
That QC looks good back there, Marty. I was hoping you would show us how the axle housings (trumpets) were modified to maintain the right spring perch width and how the ends were adapted for the Wide 5 snouts.
Separate names with a comma.