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Hot Rods 29 RPU- "Street/Strip" B/SR Build - Marty Strode

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Marty Strode, Dec 19, 2019.

  1. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 4,823

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Frenchtown, I haven't finish welded the one side yet, I usually fab a cone, trying to emulate a set of merge collectors. I will post pics of the finished product.
     
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  2. bchctybob
    Joined: Sep 18, 2011
    Posts: 2,208

    bchctybob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Nice headers. I like it when there is a certain amount of straight pipe going into the collectors, kinda pulls the eyes along and when they parallel a body line or panel they really look well thought out. I’ve always thought that that’s part of the fun of building headers, building a little art into the things.
    How are you going to muffle it? Inserts or old style take offs with mufflers under the car (like Dean’s).


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  3. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 4,823

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Blues, this being the street set, the tubes are 1-5/8, and step up to 1-3/4. The competition versions will start at 1-3/4 and step to 1-7/8. You are right, the slip joints, certainly make the fitting and welding somewhat easier. Now is the time for you to round up some bends and get started, let me know if I can share some advice.
     
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  4. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 4,823

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Thanks Bob, you being a long time header builder, I appreciate that. The muffler system will be similar to Dean's, with a 2-1/2" pipe out the bottom of the collector, curving, and dropping through the splash apron. There is only one dragstrip I plan on running, that requires mufflers, being Portland International Raceway. They run 1/8 mile, in conjunction with a large cruise (sometimes 1800 cars) every Wed night from June to October.
     
  5. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 4,823

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Gary, one of the toughest parts of the job, is shaping the starter tubes at the flange, on the center two ports, without a straight section. The end ones are easy, just a little squeeze and you have a nice oval.
     
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  6. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 4,823

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Charlie, I know you hit Bonneville regularly, I wish you could have met Jerry, when he was running the T-Bird, maybe we will meet up there some time. Thanks.
     
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  7. Weedburner 40
    Joined: Jan 26, 2006
    Posts: 698

    Weedburner 40
    Member

    Thanks Marty. Sometimes I wake up feeling like I built a set in my sleep, LOL. I am going to keep watching your progress though, its inspiring.
     
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  8. I wish I would have met him...I feel a kindred spirit. I hope I get another chance to go to Bonneville. I had a mind to go this year but even though Speed Week is on as we talk, I fear it will be cancelled.

    However, if it is held and is safe to travel it might happen.
     
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  9. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 4,823

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Got a late start today, built 2 more pipes for the driver side, one to go. I was able to fully weld the pipes as I go, since they are a mirror image of the other side, at least as close as I can. Can't wait to see it with the fender back on, and the collectors welded on. IMG_4835.JPG IMG_4836.JPG IMG_4838.JPG IMG_4841.JPG IMG_4843.JPG IMG_4844.JPG
     
  10. Tim_with_a_T
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,007

    Tim_with_a_T
    Member

    Looks awesome, Marty! Nice job!


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
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  11. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 4,823

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Got the flanges welded on the inside, and ran some silicone bronze on the outside, along with welding all four pipes together at the back. All that is left, is closing the diamond shape between the pipes, and installing the collectors for good. I needed to see it on the floor, with the fender back on. IMG_4847.JPG IMG_4848.JPG IMG_4849.JPG IMG_4851.JPG IMG_4854.JPG IMG_4855.JPG
     
  12. Never2old
    Joined: Oct 14, 2010
    Posts: 636

    Never2old
    Member
    from so cal

    I’ve been using silicon bronze for decades on pieces that I will dress the welds on. Apparently not too many know about it.
    On another note, maybe I missed it but how are you planning on managing your injection? Mechanical or electronic?



    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
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  13. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 4,823

    Marty Strode
    Member

    It will be mechanical, but only used on the strip. It has only been run on gas, shafts are very tight, has 7A nozzles, and a -O pump. I just don't think I am up for the struggle to make it very driver friendly.
     
  14. Larry Anderson
    Joined: Jul 15, 2013
    Posts: 163

    Larry Anderson
    Member

    Damn those are purdy. No clue why I like your style. It always seems right...

    Sent from my SM-N950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  15. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 29,059

    loudbang
    Member

    That is art work on the headers. :)
     
  16. RidgeRunner
    Joined: Feb 9, 2007
    Posts: 850

    RidgeRunner
    Member
    from Western MA

    I like the little "up tick" you gave the 3rd pipes back to get them equal length. Gives the headers just the right amount of "visual attitude" to set them apart from the usual sets.

    Ed
     
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  17. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 4,823

    Marty Strode
    Member

    I had planned on building another set, with 1-3/4" primaries, stepping up to 1-7/8", but I have encountered a snag, with my overall plans. For as long as I can remember, a bolt-in roll bar was legal, in both uni-body and full frame cars, for some time, it would allow 1/4 mile times as quick as eleven flat. This truck should run closer to ten flat, but I was OK running low elevens. Now, looking at the current rules, bolt in is legal with uni-body, but not for OEM frames. Welding the bar to the frame, is out of the question, as it would prohibit removing the body and box. I can still run the truck at two different venues, Riverdale Raceway (Billetproof) and Eagle Field, but I had plans of running Wednesday nights at Portland International Raceway. With the limitations, there is no need to go to extra trouble, to gain performance I can utilize.

    Roll Bar Rules.png
     
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  18. Marty, do you just want the option to remove the body, or do you see a need to once the car is finished. The roll bar in the old red car was welded to the frame with the center bar bolted to the rear cross member, and dutchman clamped to the hoop. In all the years of racing and re painting, there was never a need to pull the body off the frame. The bed was off a couple of times, but not the cab. I hate to see a car that can run 10's be limited to 11's.
     
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  19. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 4,823

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Dean, since I am not doing the body justice and painting it like it should be, that's my dilemma. The 2 rear struts have to be welded to the frame as well, trapping both the body and the box. I suppose I could drill the rivets out of the Body back panel and the front panel of the box, and bolt it together, with Allen button heads.
     
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  20. Gotgas
    Joined: Jul 22, 2004
    Posts: 6,837

    Gotgas
    Member
    from DFW USA

    Funny, I was thinking that as the conversation was unfolding. Set up the body so it can be bolted in place around the legal cage. Looks like you're already considering it. Thanks for the updates, that injected Chevy looks gooooood down in there!
     
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  21. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,037

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    I wonder why they specify MIG welded? That does not seem right - TIG should be allowed, even preferred.
     
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  22. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 4,823

    Marty Strode
    Member

    I think that was a misprint.
     
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  23. Do it how you think best Marty, but if it were mine, and that bitch would 10's, by God, that's what I'd set it up to do. Have some fun with it!
     
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  24. krusty40
    Joined: Jan 10, 2006
    Posts: 828

    krusty40
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Been patiently waiting to see the silicon bronze welding on the outside. As you know, this is one of the things that bonds us, as does Bonneville RMR fabrication. Your well-documented approach to building / fabrication raises the knowledge of all of us and influences our work. Thanks for doing this.

    vic
     
  25. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,037

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    Interesting.
    So, I wonder what will happen the first time somebody shows up with an all-MIG welded roll bar? Or worse yet one is discovered in a post-wreck analysis of why the cage broke up. I've seen some MIG welded test coupons that looked good visually and you could whack it with a big hammer and break it cleanly apart.
     
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  26. GearheadsQCE
    Joined: Mar 23, 2011
    Posts: 2,473

    GearheadsQCE
    Member

    [​IMG]
    Isn't this it?
     
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  27. JROTTEN
    Joined: Jul 4, 2010
    Posts: 46

    JROTTEN
    Member

    When we built our '46 coupe in the '80's, it was built to NHRA specs, it had a bolt in cage, the mounting plates were 3/8" chrome molly plate drilled and taped, cut in a triangle shape and welded to the top of the frame for a six point cage with matching 3/16" plates welded to the tubes. NHRA didn't like it because it wasn't square or rectangle shaped. When the car crashed at Fremont, we took it home and salvaged what we could, not a mounting bolt, nor the cage was bent, sheered, or broken. the cage wasn't even sprung. so much for they're rules.. And yes, I don't understand why they say it's OK to MIG weld chrome molly tube...
     
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  28. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 4,823

    Marty Strode
    Member

    John, I was pitted very close to you guy's with the Ron Bizio Truck, and remember looking at it, with the guy who I think, did the cage. One hell of a crash, and it certainly held up well. At the urging of our friend Dean, I will probably drill the rivets out of the back panel of the body, and the front of the box, and bolt it together. That way, it will be legal to run anywhere. And down the road, if I want to remove the roll bar, I can use a slitting wheel, and separate it from the frame.
     
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  29. JROTTEN
    Joined: Jul 4, 2010
    Posts: 46

    JROTTEN
    Member

    If it was a guy was a deformed hand, that was Richard Conklyn, he and Steve Pleuger were partners in S&R race cars before he came to work for my dad. Coincidently, they both worked for Chuck Finders before going out on there own, and they also had done some work on the Bizio truck truck for Ron later on. Ironically I have relatives who have a berry farm in North Planes out on Dixie Mountain Rd. Such a small world.
     
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  30. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 4,823

    Marty Strode
    Member

    That was the guy ! The work that Steve and Richard did to the truck, was far superior to the rear section, like two different worlds. When I restored it, I was amazed at how lightweight, the front suspension pieces were. The 4 bar tubes were 3/4 OD and had 3/8 rod ends, and the brackets were single shear on both ends. Pretty light, especially with a blown 392 sitting above. I convinced Tom Willford to let me enlarge the tubes to 7/8 and the rod ends to 7/16, and double shear the mountings on both ends. All that work, and I climbed in, and raced it without a side bar in either door ! As P-Wood says, "when the mag switch goes the other way, all is forgotten". I had heard there was a lady at the Lower Tavern in North Plains, that was related to you folks. BTW, how is your Dad ?
     

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