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Technical 29 Roadster on 1932 frame build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Fyresq, Jul 7, 2018.

  1. Fyresq
    Joined: Nov 18, 2017
    Posts: 67

    Fyresq
    Member
    from Minden, NV

    Ok so I’ve collected enough trad parts to start this thing but already have some questions. I bought an original 1932 frame that had a model a coupe on it and (lucky for me) the PO decided to make a street rod out of it with a new TCI chassis. I never saw the frame with body on. I’ve been taking some measurements on the frame and they are puzzling. When I got the frame I measured the horns at 22 3/8” so with the stock being 23 3/4” I figured it was pinched but as I put a mock-up cowl on to make sure, the body lines didn’t line up at all. I’m not even sure where the cowl should sit exactly because there’s no mounting holes in close proximity on the frame and it appears to be even wider than stock where the two dimpled holes are any thoughts? It’s already had a 40’s era x member welded in and the spring mount front member is welded/nuked in all the way around so modifying may be tough. Anybody out there have precise measurements on where the cowl should sit? And if this frame is salvageable? F717CF5E-8331-4E88-9782-D40D2C2144F4.jpeg 722DFCC7-68A3-4DE4-8A61-291C7FB09B3A.jpeg 67AE43BD-024D-4A7C-941A-CBDC8973DC01.jpeg 31522154-2245-430A-AAD0-D2C8BAAFF5AB.jpeg 49AF5D8F-5028-4168-A9B7-F1F848432DDC.jpeg A769B96E-E247-46AF-90D7-C6C67F0B2E61.jpeg A2A1FA59-5CD8-4D5E-8569-79E832E969CD.jpeg
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  2. Deuce Daddy Don
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 5,544

    Deuce Daddy Don
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  3. Your frame drawing shows 14 7/16" from center of front axle to end of frame horns.
     
  4. dana barlow
    Joined: May 30, 2006
    Posts: 5,124

    dana barlow
    Member
    from Miami Fla.
    1. Y-blocks

    like the 32 frame drawing,there is also a 28 to 31 frame drawing,and compairing sizes,helps ya know were to make a changa if needed
    '
     

  5. Use caution which drawings you use for the A as some are wrong.
     
  6. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,458

    oj
    Member

    You have to do a fair amount of 'tweeking', go to 'wescotts' and download the 28-9 Model A frame dwg to compare with the '32 and you'll get a better idea.
     
    Just Gary and lothiandon1940 like this.
  7. I would not use there print as it's not accurate google 28-29 Ford frame.
    Wescots body mount holes are ok.
    The rest is questionable.
     
  8. Fyresq
    Joined: Nov 18, 2017
    Posts: 67

    Fyresq
    Member
    from Minden, NV

  9. Fyresq
    Joined: Nov 18, 2017
    Posts: 67

    Fyresq
    Member
    from Minden, NV

    I do have model A drawings but was told the 32 frame was approx 3” longer than the A in front of the cowl?
     
  10. Fyresq
    Joined: Nov 18, 2017
    Posts: 67

    Fyresq
    Member
    from Minden, NV

    I need the measurement from end of frame horns to where the front of the model a cowl sits since I have no reference
     
  11. hotcargo
    Joined: Nov 9, 2005
    Posts: 307

    hotcargo
    Member

    I would set the diff in the right place , rear quarter on with the wheel arch reveal in exactly the right location ( eyeball engineering side elevation ) with the tyre , lay your subframe down on the chassis and that will locate your exact cowl position , then you will know if your chassis has been pinched in or not

    cheers Steve in Oz
     
    brEad likes this.
  12. Model A is 10.5" to center of front axle
    From axle to front cowel mount is
    34 1/4" on one drawing
    And 31 1/8" wescott drawing.
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2018
  13. Piggybacking on OJ's point:
    1. Try using the whole body when mocking up locations, not just the cowl.

    2. Put the body where the rear wheel well aligns with the rear axle.

    3. As a result, wherever the cowl falls, that's where it belongs.
     
    oj likes this.
  14. louisb
    Joined: Oct 13, 2008
    Posts: 1,126

    louisb
    Member

    I am at the same point in my build except I am using a chassis I built to stock specs based on Duce Daddy Don’s excellent set of blue prints. The 32 chassis is wider at the cowl area than a Model A chassis. But due to the way it curves in, it is a little narrower at the front crossmember. You have to narrow a stock model a crossmember to fit even a stock 32 chassis.

    A lot of people do narrow, or pinch, the chassis at the cowl to better fit the Model A body. I didn’t since I like the looks and it better fits my style of build. As to where to fit the body on the chassis, as others have mentioned, I am centering the rear wheel well over the rear axle centerline. Hope that helps.

    —louis
     
  15. Fyresq
    Joined: Nov 18, 2017
    Posts: 67

    Fyresq
    Member
    from Minden, NV

    Ok, this makes sense. I’ll throw the roadster body with complete subframe on there. I just didn’t want to cut the rear subframe for the wheel arches but guess I might as well commit to the 32 frame.
     

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