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283 vs 350

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by jrick63, Nov 19, 2013.

  1. oldsman41
    Joined: Jun 25, 2010
    Posts: 1,134

    oldsman41
    Member

    everyone has an opinion but first find out what rear end ratio you have and go from there. a 350 with a 700r4 would give you best of both worlds. with the right rear ratio you should be pretty quick through the gears but be able to cruise at a good speed with fairly good gas mileage.
     
  2. If you decide to go with the 350 I would be interested in the 283 .PM me
     
  3. 4 pedals
    Joined: Oct 8, 2009
    Posts: 623

    4 pedals
    Member
    from Nor Cal

    I like 283s,. and am not afraid to run them. Can usually pick them up running for under $500 from somebody "upgrading" to a 350.

    Devin
     
  4. niterunner71
    Joined: Nov 26, 2010
    Posts: 102

    niterunner71
    Member

    this is just my $.02 and does not mean anything. You have a C20 which has a long 8ft bed and 8 lug wheels. From what I gathere you are wanting a hot rod truck. If it were me, I would do a complete frame swap with a frame from a 73-80ish era truck. I know it can be done because when I was involved in the lifted 4X4 truck craze in the mid to late 80s alot of off roaders swapped 73-up frames under 60-66 bodies because the 73-up truck were extremely rust prone in salt belt states. If you were to do this with say a 2wd 73-80 truck you would get power steering, disc brakes, and 5 lug wheels if you used a frame from a c10.plus alot of aftermarket parts availible if you wanted to say slam it to the ground. You could even get a shortbed using a later frame and finding a 60-66 short fleetside or stepside bed (although those can be scarce, stepsides were basically the same back to 55 as a note). ALOT of 73-80 ish trucks had 350s already, they were stellar trucks the only problem that bodies rusted long before the running gear gave up its life. Up into the 80s GM and Ford trucks both were still very work oriented, and overbuilt, unlike modern trucks> So many of them are still on the road. You could probably pick up a donar truck for a grand or less, that is already running and driving. You could sell parts from both of your trucks to other people to regain some costs as well which is simple hot rodding 101, then scrap whats no good or won't sell. There is nothing wrong with 283s or 350s either, both are great engines. I had a 67 c10 with a 283 once that was used to haul and pull trailers and never had any problems with it. You may also want to check around the net for Chevy pickup forums that would offer more insight as well as classified ads where you can buy and sell extras. Hope this helps.
    Note: if you did go this route, try to buy a donor truck locally so you could inspect it. 73-80 trucks were also prone to frame rust in salt belt states as well.
     
  5. arkaupp
    Joined: Aug 27, 2013
    Posts: 17

    arkaupp
    Member
    from Utah

    I don't see the need for a frame swap when the front crossmember will swap right over, the rear ends will swap semi easily too.

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  6. niterunner71
    Joined: Nov 26, 2010
    Posts: 102

    niterunner71
    Member

    I was just throwing this out, like I said my $.02 don't mean anything, have never really modded chevy trucks alot other than swapping to 5 lugs with rearend and front parts from a 72 in a 67 to get discs, 5 lugs and power steering. All I remember with 3 friends who had 60-66s with 73-up 4X4 chassis they swapped the whole frame, I was assuming this would work on 2wd trucks as well, just have never done it on 60-66s. my old 61 c10 was all stock susp with a 327 and muncie 4spd never did any heavy susp mods to it.
     
  7. jrick63
    Joined: Nov 19, 2013
    Posts: 17

    jrick63
    Member
    from minnesota

    Well here's the deal. When i bought this truck i got a c10 and c20. I liked the look of the c20, has more of the old farm truck look. So i had the frame sandblasted and painted. I'm in the process of the body work right now. From what i have read is that the c10 and c20 are basically the same, except larger suspension. I took the 283 out of the c10 because its a v8. Will that push the c20 around? I'm just looking to cruise and keep it as original as possible. (plus i live in Minnesota so I only got five months to drive) keep the opinions coming!
     
  8. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    If you really want to keep it as original as possible, then you have to use the 283, you dont have a choice. I would think that is obvious. A 350 is going to pull a big heavy truck around with a lot more vigor.
     
  9. tjet
    Joined: Mar 16, 2009
    Posts: 1,270

    tjet
    Member
    1. Early Hemi Tech

    A 283 is not the best engine for anything over 2500 lbs. Also, that 4 speed is more like a 3 speed. You will never use 1st gear.

    I'd say a 327 or 350. You can make it look vintage too with the right intake and valve covers.

    Note: I took out my 283 years ago and installed a 455 olds.

    Keep the clutch though. a Muncie would be a really nice trans behind it
     
  10. jrick63
    Joined: Nov 19, 2013
    Posts: 17

    jrick63
    Member
    from minnesota

    Another thing is that i also have the 292 v6 what's everyones thought on that motor?
     
  11. Rindy
    Joined: May 28, 2012
    Posts: 31

    Rindy
    Member
    from 43351

    the 292 is not a V6, its a straight 6.
    "The 292 cu in engine was only used in Chevrolet and GMC trucks; the block deck is taller (than the passenger car six), along with a relocated passenger-side engine mount. These were produced between 1962 to 1990; production of the engine was shifted to Mexico in 1980. Outputs in 1988 (only): 115 hp at 3,400 rpm and 215 lb. ft. at 1,600 rpm."
     
  12. Rindy
    Joined: May 28, 2012
    Posts: 31

    Rindy
    Member
    from 43351

    If I wanted a 292, I'd run a 1/16th-over 283.
     
  13. luke13
    Joined: Oct 25, 2013
    Posts: 381

    luke13
    Member

    i pushed one of those 60 degree chev v6s off a bank into a hedge once, so it could turn back into what it was made out of, still theyre better than a buick v6.
     
  14. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    Well, if the 292 is what came in it, and your stated goal is to "keep it as original as possible", then thats what needs to go back in. Really, once you state that you want to keep it original, that ends any discussion about engine selection right there. If you have the original motor, thats what has to go back in. If you dont have the original motor, and you "want to keep it as original as possible" then you need to at least use an engine that was originally available in your truck, which means the 350 is off the table. Or did you just throw the "original as possible" in there because it seemed like the thing to do?
    Honestly, I am really confused here. Maybe you need to sit down and figure out what your priorities are, and come back and re-state the question.
     
  15. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    Exactly what I would have said, if you hadn't stated that you want to keep it original. 350, 383 or 400.
     
  16. jrick63
    Joined: Nov 19, 2013
    Posts: 17

    jrick63
    Member
    from minnesota

    well the "original as possible" kinda refers to the look of the truck. Im not planning on a complete matching numbers restoration. The reason i stated the 283 and 292 is because i have both engines sitting in the garage right now. being this is my first build im trying to make it easy on me so i can learn. Im tryig to find something i can bolt right in.
     
  17. clentinc
    Joined: Nov 23, 2013
    Posts: 25

    clentinc
    Member
    from Louisville

    283 would be nice if you plane on original. But if you want just a mean runner then the crate I feel would be right.
     
  18. I have a 68 chevy 3/4 ton and I've had several engines in it over the years including a 283 and 350. Go with the 350 the extra torque helps the big heavy truck a lot. The 283 is a great engine in a lighter car like a Nova.
     
  19. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 4,292

    sunbeam
    Member

    A 400 block and a 327 crank is the 348 that chevy should have built. I've built a couple with 6.25 rods great combo.
     

  20. Put a warmed up 283 next to a crate 350 and you'll forget all about that 350.
    And by warmed up I mean smaller CC bolt on heads and a nice lumpy cam ( read CHEAP)
     
  21. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    For my money, the 283 will be a STONE in a 3700 lb pu, and if you plan on backing it with a "HAMB" friendly, high 3 series rear-end ratio, you'll be getting hammered by moms in SUV's. And a 350 doesnt have to be a "crate" 350, although I think in your particular case, a crate motor might be an ok way to go.
    If I were to suggest a motor based on what I think is your experience level based on your posts, I would suggest a crate 383 with a mid 220ish hyd. cam and a performer rpm. I think that will give you more bang for your buck than anything else.
    Forget all the fantasy wanker keyboard exotica...
     
  22. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

  23. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    Oops, just noticed its a c20, not a c10. make that 4000+ lb...

    So uh, yea, if getting your ass handed to you at stoplights by moms in V-6 Camrays sounds like fun, by all means, go with the 283...

    I'd be thinking 455 olds here, or 500 cad, but thats just me.
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2013
  24. patterpillar
    Joined: Jun 16, 2013
    Posts: 83

    patterpillar
    Member
    from Montana

    292 inlines worked real well in the late 60's 4x4's. Remind me of my old 270 Jimmy wish I'd kept.
     
  25. tjet
    Joined: Mar 16, 2009
    Posts: 1,270

    tjet
    Member
    1. Early Hemi Tech

    Oh it will move with a 455 that's for sure.

    Here was mine in my 1/2 ton
     

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  26. jrick63
    Joined: Nov 19, 2013
    Posts: 17

    jrick63
    Member
    from minnesota

    If i stay with the 283. Can i just change the gears in the rear, to allow for better driving?
     
  27. arkaupp
    Joined: Aug 27, 2013
    Posts: 17

    arkaupp
    Member
    from Utah

    If you want to stick with the original 8 lug rear, gears are difficult to find. I'd look for a later model rear either 5 or 6 lug depending on what you want.

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  28. johnybsic
    Joined: Oct 8, 2009
    Posts: 612

    johnybsic
    Member
    from las vegas

    I for one really like the straight 6's. I've got a 250 in a C10, Infront of a 3-speed manual. Albeit, Not fast, but it runs great and is bulletproof-reliable. Does "truck stuff" too. hauls dirtbikes n such just fine. You use an aweful lotta skinny pedal with the one-barrel carb however, till you get to cruse speed.
    Still, I opt'd to NOT put a SBC 400 i have into it... Just too good of a little thing to cast away. Make sweet cruser motors IMO, alright on fuel too.
    Sound cool...urmm Coolish... with a glass pack

     
  29. johnybsic
    Joined: Oct 8, 2009
    Posts: 612

    johnybsic
    Member
    from las vegas

    ... I'll go away now.
     
  30. luke13
    Joined: Oct 25, 2013
    Posts: 381

    luke13
    Member

    chet herbert was getting respectable horsepower out of the inline 6s back in the fifties to the sum of 300, i dont for how long though. but a 283 with decent cleaned up lightly ported heads and a good cam, and a baffled sump will make good reliable hp.
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2013

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