Well, they dont make much torq so for me it would be a solid mid to high rpm camshaft around 230's- 240's at 50 duration. On a stock piston anything above 500 lift should be checked for valve piston clearance. A member of the hamb posted this up. Its project X early buildup 292 with Isky solid.
If anyone is interested i have a pair of 461 2.02 heads that have matching date codes that might be for sale if the price is right. They are bare and need a rebuild but have never been touched and are vergins.
vortecs outperform doublehumps in every dyno shootout I've seen but what about the hp fast burn heads? single 4bbl's also outdo the multi carb setups but who wants to be the same?
-------------------------------- It wasn't common, but in the day 'back in day', right around the time that GM released the over the counter angle plug 'service heads', a few of the more savvy racers and cylinder head shops did did convert straight plug heads to an angle plug configuration. It was an expensive mod that intailed plugging the original sparkplug holes with cast iron pipe plugs, furnace brazing them in place, grinding the pipe plugs down until they were more or less invisible and then drilling and tapping new sparkplug holes at a slight angle. The new sparkplug holes went partially through the pipe plugs installed in the original holes. As I recall, the angle on the modded heads was not quite as much, nor quite as good as on the factory angle plug heads, but was still worth a few horsepower over the standard straight plug heads, especially if you were running pistons with big flame travel killing, pop-up domes on the them. Back around 1974-75 I bought a very slightly used set of Racing Head Service built 462 castings from a local Modified Production racer that RHS had ported, polished, angle milled and converted to angle pluigs. Those heads were probably nothing compared to even the most basic, run of the mill, aftermarket heads that guys run on the street nowadays, but back then those heads were exotic 'trick of the day' race heads and running them on the 'built' (Scorpion intake, 950 3-bbl and first design Z28 "off road cam" 327 in my '64 Chevelle street car gave me a lot of bragging rights! mart ====================================
--------------------------------------- Yep. 520 castings on the '65 and '66 Studebakers with the 2-bbl "283 Thunderbolt" engine. The last two years of Studebaker production ('65 and 66), Studebaker still produced cars in Canada, at their Hamilton Ontario plant. But since they had already shut down their South Bend Indiana foundry and engine plant at the end of the 1964 model run, there were no more Studebaker engines available. Instead they bought 195 hp 283 2-bbl Chevy engines and renamed and relabled them as "Studebaker 283 Thunderbolt" engines. Gotta' love that name!<LOL> Techniclly GM and Studebaker called the engines "283 MacKinnons" rather than "283 Chevrolets" because the engines were sourced from GM's Mackinnon engine plant in St Catharines Ontario - but other then the "Studebaker 283 Thunderbolt" decals, black paint and a different air breather, they were identical to the standard 283-2bbl Chev V8s that the MackKinnon plant produced. mart P.S. Back in the day, circa 1974-'75, just for laughs and to make people scratch their heads a bit, I used to run a set of "Studebaker 283 Thunderbolt" decals on the 327 Chevy in my '64 Chevelle street racer! =====================
My Dad Had a 34 Ford Coupe in 1962 with a 283 bored 30 over not sure what heads but I know he went through them. I remember him telling me he had 12 to 1 compression, not sure what cam but the motor was built. He ran high 11's to low 12's all day I think he had 456 gear ratio-She was a quick little bastard. He did say he could of got more out of the motor at the drag strip but had to take care of this one cause the funds were not there to build another motor.
Good post I have a standard bore 283 and a set of power pack 896 heads. The heads need work as they are missing most of the valves. I found 8 1.94 valves and some springs in my parts stash. How can you tell if the valve and springs are still good? Some of the springs were in plastic and some were not, they have an orange stripe on them. Is there a way to check spring tension? Also how could I tell if the intake valves I have are usable or not?
look like i started a hornet nest here, just got my 283 back from rebuilders 0.060 f/t mild isky cam 256/262 1800-5500 rpm ? just had the 520 heads apart and they are bad, need a complete job on them. My question, is it worth doing these heads up or am i better off buying a new pair for around the same cost, what little search i have done there not alot out there aftermarket wise, running tri power setup three 2g on offenhauser intake, any ideas on the heads
Knowone wants to get spanked by a Honda with 5 kids drinking a slurpy. lol! What ever you choose I suggest a (performance) head with closed chamber stock bolt hole locations for your intake. Are you looking to keep the nostalgic look of no accessory holes ? Cheap Route on your heads Resurface, reconditioned vortech 305 in/ex valves, new guides, 3-angle, old style LT-1 springs and keep you retainers and locks. You can check the heads yourself to see if the studs have been slipping by placing a ruler across them. This is as cheap as it gets on a rebuild and keep the nostalgic look. Any of this other stuff works good too. Used Working Cond. Power Packs 57 newer Camel Humps 1.94 versions '70s 487/ 487x 76cc 1.94s angle milled .100 'Corvette alum. D-ports L69 305 HO heads note: vortecs dont wrk with your intake. New Heads S/R world product 1.94 Edelbrock E-tech 1.94 Trick Flow 1.94
520's with a good 3 angle valve job would be the way I would go. If you want the performance and have money to burn then the Vortec heads with a new intake to match will give you better performance but also run you around $800 to $1000 or so. I've had a few 283's and used both the 461's and 520's on them. I wouldn't use the camel humps as a 283 runs best at 9:1 compression...anything lower will hurt performance - close chambered heads would be best IMO, in my experience anything over 53cc to 57cc or so doesn't make sense on a 283. Rule of thumb: any high winding engine runs best at higher compression ratios. Anything over 9.5:1 will require octane boost, so don't go TOO high.
Long answer: The difference in valve size typically only makes a difference in flow and allows the chamber to fill and evacuate at a different rate...larger fills faster so cam profile can change accordingly. Short answer: both will work fine, larger valves will allow a little more performance oriented cam and spring rate. Essentially, as far as I could always tell, combustion chamber size is the main determining factor here and as long as you stay within appropriate parameters the type of head isn't going to make a huge difference...of course, until you get into Vortec heads - then that changes the equation dramatically.
I'm building a 57' Belair for street...don't need crazy power and would like some economy. Decided against a 302 because of weight and vintage departure (5 speed, solids, 9" Ford etc.). This will be a 60's vintage build and I'd like anyone's input. Here's what I have to work with so far: A virgin 70k 57' 283, 57' fuelie heads (#3731539), 461 (small valve) heads and a 67' 327 block only (#3903352, 2 bolt). I'll be using the new overdrive Muncie 4 speed with with positrac. I have a newly rebuilt Rochester 3-2bbl with linkage only. What would be a good vintage intake and valve cover? Would you build a 238 or 327? What would be the best 350/327 cam clone? Will that Comp Cam roller lifter kit work in it? THANKS for any help! Chuck
I'd build the 327 for sure. The .268 cam is a great grind that works well in the 327. Mine is a small journal '67 4 bolt main 375hp 327 10.25:1 compression ratio running a hipo stock dual plane high rise aluminum intake with Hooker hedders but I plan on switching over the the 2 1/2" vette ramshorns cast exhaust manifolds. My trans is a M22 close ratio and it runs out to a 3.53 12 bolt.... It dynoed around 380 hp and 400 ft lb tq. I would say that you would get better gas mileage than me if you stayed at or below 9.5:1 compression ratio and you probably could still get 325 hp or a few more fairly easily.
Buzz, What carb(s) are you using and do you know the part number for those Vett ram's horns? Also which valves are you using in your 461s and what lifters? Thanks, Chuck
Well I'm 99% positive that mine are the 462 heads running 2.02/1.6 valves with domed pistons, 461's aren't going to be as dome piston friendly...you'll likely need to relieve the pistons a bit or have them custom made. If you're considering this set-up keep in mind I'm at 10.25:1 compression and have to run octane boost in every tank of gas. It's a little pricey, but the kick is worth it to me. To be honest I can't remember off the top of my head what lifters are in there but I'll look for the build sheet and get you that info when I find it. Are you going to go for a 375 hp 327? I think you can do it pretty easily but you're compression will need to be as high as possible while still being reasonable with regards to using todays gasoline. I am currently running a Edelbrock Performer 625 for 3 reasons: 1) My Holley 750 needs to be rebuilt, however the way it drove it felt as though it was overcarbed with the 750, so I may skip the Holley all together. 2) The dual 500 setup I want to run is going to cost me about $750 or so 3) Although Performers are not traditional, they run great and rarely have given me any problems.
Buzznut, I probably won't go to 375 hp with my 2bolt mains and if I have to use octane boost. Thanks for the info. What car is your mill in?
It's a '56 3100 Chevy custom cab big back window stepside pick up. It has been handed down from my grandfather...
You need to talk Rod into giving you a ride in his 40 coupe!! It's a .060 over 283, decked block, 1/16 angle mill, 1.84 valves, bowls reworked, and a .458 lift 224 duration cam. It works nice!!! Jeff
Unfortunately I don't know any of the history on my engine, but from casting numbers I do know that it's a 59' 283 with 66' 462 double hump heads. My first question is probably a stupid question, but without taking off the heads is there any way to tell if it has the 1.94 vs 2.02 valves? My second question is about the engine rebuild tag and writing on the block in the following pictures. Does the writing on the side of the block tell me anything about the rebuild? I clearly identify 040, which I deduced is likely stating that it's bored 0.40 over to 289. Thoughts? Also, does the tag on the front of the block mean anything to anyone or give a clue about who did the rebuild? Thanks guys!
Jeff, I finally saw your post. I'll have to get down to see you see if Rod will give me that ride. I have all the machine work done, just trying to find the time to put it together. In another month I'll have a lot more time, Wilson and I will be retiring at the same time if you hadn't heard. Maybe I'll see you at the Swap Meet on Sunday.
One of my first builds as a kid (long time ago)was a 283 w/ fuelie heads using all JC Whitney rings bearings and the biggest hydraulic cam they sold w/ their high rev hydraulics. I think it speced about the same as the 350 horse 327 cam. 2 1/2 " duals with turbo mufflers and manifolds, and a 4bbl, muncie 4 speed and a 57 rearend in a 41 coupe and I got 20 mile per gallon and some great performance. Ready to build another 283 now but for ease I deffinately what to have mounting holes in the ends of the heads. What casting # higher compression heads would be the best, I don't want to buy aftermarket and will be using an edelbrock 3 duece steup I've already got. Thanks
I didn't feel like hunting in the junkyards, testing and going through the machining process... World Castings Part # 042650-1 http://www.worldcastings.com/products/s-r-stock-replacement-iron-heads.html World Products 042650-1 SB-Chevy 305ci SR cast cyl head SB-Chevy 305ci S/R Cast Iron Cylinder Heads SB-Chevy 305ci S/R Cast Iron Cylinder Head 170cc Intake Ports 58cc Combustion Chambers 1.940'' Int/1.500'' Exh Valves 1.250'' Valve Springs, .560'' Max Lift for Hydraulic Cam Assembled, Sold Individually Perfect for use on 262-307 cubic inch small blocks. 1.940 x 1.500 valves, 170cc intake runner, 1.250'' single spring, 100# @ seat, .560'' max lift. Material: High density cast iron Valve Seats: Integral intake,hardened steel exhaust Valve Size: 1.940'' x 1.500'' for S/R Torquer 305 Rocker Arm Studs: 3/8'' shank, screw-in style with hex shoulder furnished Accessory Flange: Stock locations, 7-bolt universal pattern Included In Assembly: Manley Street Flo stainless steel valves (1-piece forged, with undercut stems and swirl-polished heads), ring and band valve seals, valve springs, Manley 7° chrome moly retainers, keepers. <CENTER></CENTER><CENTER></CENTER><CENTER></CENTER><CENTER></CENTER><CENTER> </CENTER><CENTER> </CENTER><CENTER> </CENTER>I purchased mine brand new off another HAMB'er for a "really really reasonable" price.<CENTER></CENTER>
On page 1 and 2 of this thread there were a lot of recommendations for 305 heads. Try looking for some of these: 3998997 305, 350, 161-165cc intake port, hard seats 14010201 305, 84 14014415 267, 305, 80-85 14014416 305 HO, 80-85, 58cc, 1.84-1.5, 165/59cc ports, 7 bolt ex 14022601 267, 305 HO, 80-85, 58cc, 1.84-1.5, 7 bolt ex. 14022801 305, 80-85 14101081 305, 87-88 Camaro, center bolt VC 14102187 305HO, 87-91, 1.85-1.5, 58cc, 7 bolt ex. 14102191 305, 350, 87 up center bolt VC 14102193 305, 350, 87-up, 7 bolt ex.
Of all those 305 heads, I'd lean more toward the 14022601 casting number. They can have a 52cc combustion chamber in factory trim. For a daily driven 283, I'd really give 'em a looking at. Hardened exhaust seats, good intake runner volumes/velocity, and we've flow tested stock 52cc varieties at 158 cfm @ .450" lift. on the intakes with a matching result through the exhausts. Dang good numbers for a box stock head and would work well with a 283 and single pattern 214* to 224* @ .050 cam hovering around .450 lift. Oh yeah, they're cheap. We had two sets given to us, which is why we tested them. I was kinda shocked they did that well. Some pocket porting and chamber relieving, you'd probably get much higher numbers and still have less than 60cc in the chamber. When I get more time, I'm gonna work those heads to see just how much they will flow with the 1.85" intakes. Hud
thats the same combo , my father in law's 66 nova had , but with a glide. we swapped a 327 intake for the 283 and picked up a few hundreths.....went 12.30's. current owner now has the ihra record with it in , k/sa , i believe. personally, i'd go with a vortec or look for some of those kiwi pro action or what ever they are....
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