Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects 28 RPU "problem child" build thread "first try at a hotrod"

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by twenty8tudor, Jun 15, 2014.

  1. Nice
    I am going to try a scratch built body in future
     
  2. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,711

    55willys
    Member

    You are doing right to fix the foundation problems before building on others poor work. Jim
     
  3. brad2v
    Joined: Jun 29, 2009
    Posts: 1,652

    brad2v
    Member

    Love this build, I've been following from the beginning, as I have an rpu build in my future. And since you asked, I greatly dislike the look of a folded top all piled up at the back. I vote removable.
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  4. twenty8tudor
    Joined: Oct 5, 2010
    Posts: 886

    twenty8tudor
    Member
    from Ohio

    thanks for all the replies and opinions!!! hope to get back on it more this weekend after i finish some side work up....

    as for the top slid it down on the post a the top another 1/2" and looks a lot better. so going to stick with the stock removable top cut down. that will be the next thing to get setup so i will post some pics of that...

    THANKS AGAIN!
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  5. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 17,388

    Squablow
    Member

  6. twenty8tudor
    Joined: Oct 5, 2010
    Posts: 886

    twenty8tudor
    Member
    from Ohio

    Thanks everyone!! Finally back on it a little bit tonight after work....

    Removed all what seemed like 1000 staples and removed to top material. Looks really strange without the cover. Thinking about taking a little bit of the rise out of the middle now to make it flatter.

    Now I can narrow it up and shorten the back post. Like to make it where I can break it down like a tent.

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1408937869.715907.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1408937885.301095.jpg
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  7. twenty8tudor
    Joined: Oct 5, 2010
    Posts: 886

    twenty8tudor
    Member
    from Ohio

    Started shortening the back post took 2.750" out of them to match the front post.

    Ended up slicing the bottom piece 4 ways to get it to fit

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1409025522.799217.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1409025635.914558.jpg

    It had a separation in it on the outside of the post originally so I used that as a guide in where to cut it in the band saw

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1409025616.467506.jpg

    After getting it tacked on I straight edged the front and back and needed up having to slice the top part also to get it lined back up..

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1409025715.799370.jpg

    It's midnight so this is where I'm stopping for now... Welded the top and ground it down with a flap wheel then hand handed it smooth.

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1409025790.566455.jpg

    Next update will probably be when I have all the top cut welded and attached to the quarters.
     
    chryslerfan55 and a40lover like this.
  8. very nice
    I have a scratch build RPU in future
     
  9. twenty8tudor
    Joined: Oct 5, 2010
    Posts: 886

    twenty8tudor
    Member
    from Ohio

    Thanks!! Finding out roadsters can be a pain to get all lined up after being blown apart..(or hacked together before) haha

    Anyway top is back in order just need to finish fully welding it up.

    Knocked out the rivets in the back bow so I could narrow it by 1.5"

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1409890792.340811.jpg

    Lightly shaved it down in the bandsaw then sanded it down so the sides would fit back on
    ImageUploadedByTJJ1409890923.167269.jpg

    I narrowed the front a little more so it followed the body a little more and didnt overhang so much tacked in place and set it back on
    ImageUploadedByTJJ1409891012.384136.jpg

    I slid the front down a little farther on the post and also moved it forward a little to clear the window and over hang the front a little more. So I had to rework the top mounts in the front. Junk flat steel hammer and an old chunk of steel with a recess in it to form the curve.
    ImageUploadedByTJJ1409891100.345383.jpg

    Cut some extensions and welded them to the old mounts
    ImageUploadedByTJJ1409891244.468679.jpg

    Slapped the old cover back on with a few clamps and staples. Top pic is the day I brought it home to compare the difference.
    ImageUploadedByTJJ1409891320.710914.jpg

    And here is how it sits as of midnight tonight.. Hope to finish welding it and maybe start on the pedals this weekend
    ImageUploadedByTJJ1409891432.286624.jpg
     
    chryslerfan55, bct and Kiwifruit like this.
  10. That top has some attitude to it now! Nice!
     
    yruhot likes this.
  11. OFT
    Joined: Jun 1, 2005
    Posts: 574

    OFT
    Member

    Thanks for the details on how you modified top! Looks real good.

    Earl
     
  12. twenty8tudor
    Joined: Oct 5, 2010
    Posts: 886

    twenty8tudor
    Member
    from Ohio

    THANKS! One person said it doesn't look kilt it's for the Walton's anymore, so I guess that's in the right direction haha



    Thanks! It sure changed the view from the inside. :)
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  13. Malcolm
    Joined: Feb 9, 2006
    Posts: 8,032

    Malcolm
    Member
    from Nebraska

    Very cool project and nice work ---- looking good!

    Malcolm
     
  14. I have not commented on this thread before because I wanted to see where the build is going. The fact that you are going to run fenders tells me what I need to know. I like this build. Your workmanship is excellent. It takes a good eye, and skill to achieve what you have with the top. To me, the farther away from Henry's basic top outline, the worse it looks. You have gracefully lowered the overall height of the top, and maintained the perfect profile. Good job sir!
     
    hfh and Atwater Mike like this.
  15. Looking great!
     
  16. twenty8tudor
    Joined: Oct 5, 2010
    Posts: 886

    twenty8tudor
    Member
    from Ohio

    Took the cover back off today to finish welding everything I had tacked and forgot to add one part of the changes..

    On the back bow the part coming back the sides from the windshield went clear around to the inside of the back bow...

    I cut them off and bent up a little 90 and moved them to out to be flush with the outside..

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1410039500.830170.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1410039562.780737.jpg

    Carriage bolts might be temporary or I will get some acorn nuts when it's finished so it doesn't look so hacked from the inside :)

    Kinda wraps up the top change so onto either the pedals,steering, or to fix clearance issue on rear suspension..

    Thanks for all the comments and glad everyone seems to like the direction I'm going with it also.
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  17. twenty8tudor
    Joined: Oct 5, 2010
    Posts: 886

    twenty8tudor
    Member
    from Ohio

    Got a little bit more done this evening after work..

    I had cut the firewall and pushed the center back a bit and folded the sides farther out back to meet back up the space I had pushed back.

    Was able to get it all welded up tonight, wanted to make sure it was stiff enough before starting on the pedals and steering column.

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1410832729.695049.jpg

    A buddies Brookville rpu hits on the passenger side corner and that's the main reason I did this so I could clear the head and move the motor back a bit

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1410832797.464384.jpg

    Left the tank open on the mig and the tank was low to begin with and it was empty so I has welded it all together.. Kinda fun gas welding it.

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1410832882.930688.jpg


    Sometimes I get bored while working and try to think of different pictures to take.....

    image.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2014
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  18. gearheadbill
    Joined: Oct 11, 2002
    Posts: 1,318

    gearheadbill
    Member

    Like many others I like the RPU build, but I LOVE the red F1. Sits great. A+
     
    chryslerfan55, yruhot and charleyw like this.
  19. twenty8tudor
    Joined: Oct 5, 2010
    Posts: 886

    twenty8tudor
    Member
    from Ohio

    Thanks! The F1 needs to come up a bit in the front so it won't drag its nose around anymore..

    Was able to get one more little thing done today.. Where the masters are under the floor the rods were going to hit the leg of the cross member..

    Cut the leg off to work on it easier.. Already had done the first one which took some time to figure out..

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1411337571.731373.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1411337641.889643.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1411337624.663301.jpg

    Had to cut one side of the angle iron short to make the small c channel
    ImageUploadedByTJJ1411337682.594538.jpg

    Tacked in to make sure it was in the right place and angle(first try the angle was way off)
    ImageUploadedByTJJ1411337712.182639.jpg

    Cut both front and back on the portable bandsaw
    ImageUploadedByTJJ1411337773.496217.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1411337815.631058.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1411337834.300087.jpg

    Ground the welds down and blocked it with 60grit quick
    ImageUploadedByTJJ1411337875.467314.jpg

    Now to get a column and start on the pedals

    Looking for an early column and banjo wheel if anyone has one.. Thanks!
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  20. twenty8tudor
    Joined: Oct 5, 2010
    Posts: 886

    twenty8tudor
    Member
    from Ohio

    Started on the pedal mount last couple nights after work..

    Found a piece of scrap stock to cut down... Before and after a little lathe work..

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1411786832.680966.jpg

    Made the pedal shaft .750" and where it will be welded is 1.250

    Going to scrounge after work tomorrow for some tubing and plate to start making the pedals. Probably going to use plastic for bushings for mock up till I can get some bronze to turn out.

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1411787010.081663.jpg

    Where I left tonight.. Rods are just lineup rods not what in using.. After I get the pedals ruffed in I will trim down the end.. Tap it and make a brace for it to go back to the crossmember....

    Or at least that's what I think will work....
     

    Attached Files:

    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  21. twenty8tudor
    Joined: Oct 5, 2010
    Posts: 886

    twenty8tudor
    Member
    from Ohio

    Started working on the pedals themselves after making some cardboard templates

    Made some temp bushings out if plastic
    ImageUploadedByTJJ1412392869.978829.jpg

    Found a piece of scrap 3/8 plate to make the pedals out of
    ImageUploadedByTJJ1412392938.783027.jpg

    Ruffed them in with the bandsaw as much as possible then clamped and sanded them with a grinder and flap wheel
    ImageUploadedByTJJ1412393043.191513.jpg

    Used a hole saw in the drill press and has to use the mill to make it a tad bigger since all I had was an 1.125" hole saw..
    ImageUploadedByTJJ1412393136.395207.jpg

    Will finish the bottom part when I have the rods made up.
     

    Attached Files:

    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  22. great work so far man, keep it up!
     
  23. Some really nice work here.
     
  24. twenty8tudor
    Joined: Oct 5, 2010
    Posts: 886

    twenty8tudor
    Member
    from Ohio

    Thanks for the support!

    Went to the Hershey swap meet and did a lot of walking and came back with a few parts..

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1413229983.856960.jpg

    Got all excited the first day and bought the wrong year rear fender.. Guy I went with is a dealer for Brookville so I picks up a fender off him..

    Anyway last night started laying the fenders on to see what I needed to do... The Brookville fender needs the holes drilled so had to line it up with everything else first.

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1413230094.171024.jpg

    Have to adjust the fender flange and bottom flange of the bed to get them I mate up.. Also have to move the bars I made for the rear in due to hitting the running board mount.. Just tacked the mount so that should be easy..

    Small update but glad I am going with fenders on this..
     
    chryslerfan55 and Tim like this.
  25. brad2v
    Joined: Jun 29, 2009
    Posts: 1,652

    brad2v
    Member

    Looking really good.
     
  26. twenty8tudor
    Joined: Oct 5, 2010
    Posts: 886

    twenty8tudor
    Member
    from Ohio

    Going to try to fix my rear spring issue this weekend by flipping to main leaf so it will no longer be reverse eyes and going to try and put a little more arch in it... Rolled the axle out last night and going to get started on it after work today

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1414180450.312758.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2014
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  27. twenty8tudor
    Joined: Oct 5, 2010
    Posts: 886

    twenty8tudor
    Member
    from Ohio

    And apparently you can reverse a speedway leaf like you can an old front... Going to contact a local leaf spring manufacture Monday and try or get a proper main leaf made..

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1414194032.057136.jpg

    I think I seem somewhere someone used a lead spring to make a flapper for body work? Maybe it won't be a total loss..
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  28. OFT
    Joined: Jun 1, 2005
    Posts: 574

    OFT
    Member

    Ouch!!
    Really impressive build up you have going.

    Earl
     
  29. twenty8tudor
    Joined: Oct 5, 2010
    Posts: 886

    twenty8tudor
    Member
    from Ohio

    At least it's just the main leaf I think I will just have it remade and arched a little bit more with normal eyes and try it again.. Also thanks for the kind words!! Trying to do as much as I can myself.. Next one should be easier right...? Haha

    Anyway was able to get the brake pedals and mounting shaft I made tacked in place... Started working up a clutch rod.. As far as I can see it's going to come about an 1/8" or less from bottoming out the master.. Anyone know if once it has fluid if that would be enough travel to make the clutch work??

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1414376314.240808.jpg

    Going to turn the rod down a little bit toward the master so it will have room to travel inside the master cyl bore..comes real close to rubbing when pushed in..
     
    chryslerfan55 and a40lover like this.
  30. twenty8tudor
    Joined: Oct 5, 2010
    Posts: 886

    twenty8tudor
    Member
    from Ohio

    Took the rear spring to a local spring shop to have the main leaf remade (shortened by 2", standard eyes, and 2" more arch in it) hopefully it will give it enough clearance to work..

    Back in the pedals today.. Made some adjustments to the clutch rod to finish it up and started making the brake rod..

    Ended up going to tractor supply and getting snow plow adjusting bolts for the ends of the rods.

    Turned them down and re threaded them to fit in the rods I made.

    Used a scrap piece of round bar to make the rods.. Forgot to take a pic of the clutch rod..

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1414983940.789656.jpg

    Took a set of model A pedals that I bought for $5 and cut the pads off them for my pedals. Had to cut the inside of the pad off and round it to clear the steering column.

    Still have to make a brace for the pedal shaft and a spacer to go between them but they are in and seem to swing and have enough travel..

    ImageUploadedByTJJ1414984117.336037.jpg

    Wanted them to look like A pedals when some one looked in..

    Probably going to start working on the steering and front shocks while waiting...
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2014
    chryslerfan55 likes this.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.