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Projects 28 RPU "problem child" build thread "first try at a hotrod"

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by twenty8tudor, Jun 15, 2014.

  1. twenty8tudor
    Joined: Oct 5, 2010
    Posts: 851

    twenty8tudor
    Member
    from Ohio

    That’s pretty much exactly what I said also when i saw the runs..

    That’s exactly what I should have done.. if I had to do over again I would have epoxied the frame and everything else right as soon as it was going together and just drove it.

    Made another attempt at it today and was definitely gun shy about runs so buddy brought his gun down.. we set the pattern and cut the fluid way back.. and I put the coats on extremely light on the base.. if I intend to paint again I need to get a decent gun and really get familiar with how it sprays.
    Thanks for the kind words and following along with this circus!

    Thanks for the advice! I have never heard that about the soap but it makes perfect sense though!

    I’m sure it was 98% my fault on the runs but I just can’t help to think that the other brand reducer didn’t help.. smells way different then the same brand reducer as the base is.. I got a gallon of the same brand reducer and stepped it back on the coats and not any issue today.. I do need to add more lighting if I spray a car again.. it’s hard to see the pattern and keep an overlap with the lights I have now. Thanks again for the advice it always helps!




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  2. twenty8tudor
    Joined: Oct 5, 2010
    Posts: 851

    twenty8tudor
    Member
    from Ohio

    So back to task at hand.. I was going to put this off longer but it’s irritating more that it’s not done and back together.. so over the last week sanded the runs out and started over today...

    Ended up with orange peel about like on the cab.. so I’m perfectly fine with that and I have no issues with buffing it rather then pushing it and ended up with what happened last time.

    IMG_8074.JPG

    IMG_8075.JPG

    So have to give it some time and get it set back on the frame and put some of the cab back together to see how it matches up..


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  3. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,169

    1-SHOT
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I painted a Olds Vista Cruiser Wagon in enamel and it turned really cold and all the metallic puddled in lower spots but I did not have a run but had to redu it. The correct temp reducer has a lot to do with it, be sure to wait till the first coat tack’s up and watch your overlap in your spray pattern.
     
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  4. twenty8tudor
    Joined: Oct 5, 2010
    Posts: 851

    twenty8tudor
    Member
    from Ohio

    Took some time and removed the paint booth and stacked it up in the basement..

    Kind of nice having the room again..

    [​IMG]

    Rolled the truck out to set the bed in and see how well the paint matches
    [​IMG]

    Punched out a couple new pads for the rear of the bed
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Now just need to wait and hopefully this weekend have a sunny day to roll it out and see what it looks like
    [​IMG]




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  5. twenty8tudor
    Joined: Oct 5, 2010
    Posts: 851

    twenty8tudor
    Member
    from Ohio

    Well it didn’t turn out as I hoped..

    The bottom bed structure is really light on the top edge and doesn’t match the cab..

    The outside of the bed rails are light also.. along with the inside of the bed in the sun you can see the light spots where the runs were and I had sanded down to the primer..
    [​IMG]

    So back to sanding.. I ordered a new spray gun that’s actually from a good manufacturer (SATA) so I’ll have a good one of my own that I can be familiar with..

    [​IMG]


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  6. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 34,195

    loudbang
    Member

    You have a good attitude, no use getting all mad it won't fix the problem. :)
     
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  7. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,169

    1-SHOT
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Sara guns are good, you need a 1.8 or 2.0 tip for painting enamel. Even coats are the key. Most paints are semitransparent the more coats the darker you get.remember your first coat is your tack coat, wait till it gets tacky before applying second coat and wait till it’s tacky to put he third coat on. Because of the semi transparency you need a solid color base. Red sealer will make red top coat darker toward a maroon cast. White sealer will make the red really brighter, and black will make it really dark. Always youse natural light on color correct bulbs when painting because different lights show different shades of the same color. Also it’s important to match the reducer to the actual temp, high temp reducer dries slower when cold and produces runs and cold reducer sprayed when it hot will produce dry spots. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions. Love your build Frank
     
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