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Hot Rods '28 Roadster Body - What Are they Worth?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Inthemitten, Aug 3, 2018.

  1. Inthemitten
    Joined: Jun 13, 2014
    Posts: 35

    Inthemitten
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Looking for some insights here. Having recently just acquired a full rolling (and running) Model A chassis with a banger setup in it, I'm on the hunt for a roadster body.

    Recently located one, decent price, decent shape but what's a "good" price for a body that would be deemed "fair to good."

    Responses on the condition include..
    Patch panels on the lower quarters and the doors, one quarter has some mud in it, other is pretty clean.
    Cowl panels are great, cowl posts are solid but the tops need work. Trunk has a new skin, has the trunk inner but it's pretty rough. Tank and firewall are in nice condition and original but tank would not hold gas. Has 2 partial subframes, 1 is nice and 1 is rough and both missing the last 3 feet towards the rear. Has a rear bumper that would tie into the subframe and probably some other parts.

    Open to some feedback here.
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  2. anthony myrick
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 7,433

    anthony myrick
    Member

    there is a complete one near me listed for 6500
     
  3. Cowl posts on a roadster? Got photos??
     
  4. Inthemitten
    Joined: Jun 13, 2014
    Posts: 35

    Inthemitten
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Working on photos and can post them up ASAP. Stay tuned.
     

  5. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 27,957

    The37Kid
    Member

    Sounds like a 28-29 with bad cowl windshield posts. Question is what do you want the final product to look like, TROG race car or shiny paint street car? Without photos you described a $2,500 project IMO. Bob
     
    Inthemitten likes this.
  6. Inthemitten
    Joined: Jun 13, 2014
    Posts: 35

    Inthemitten
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    What I've so far. I'll get more detailed pictures of the areas in question from the seller.
    Not going for a super shiny show car here and more traditional build.
    front.jpg right front.jpg left rear.jpg right rear.jpg
     
    31Dodger and spurgeonforge like this.
  7. low down A
    Joined: Feb 6, 2009
    Posts: 333

    low down A
    Member

    looks like a pieced together very rough project with out a subframe. i'm building a 28 that was complete with a nice subframe body had dents but required no patch panels i paid 850 dollars.i looked at several bodies like that one my advice would be the same to you just look and do not buy. in the long run when your done with that body you'll have more dollars in it than what you could buy a new brookville for
     
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  8. Inthemitten
    Joined: Jun 13, 2014
    Posts: 35

    Inthemitten
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I appreciate that advice. Similar to some other conversations and thoughts I've had. As much as you want to jump on an opportunity... I'm not sure this is the right one. I'm not in any major rush here either. This one is asking $3k. Which, if all the pieces were there and good it would be an obvious choice. I'm considering the Brookville route should it come to that but holy hell... haha.

    Not afraid of dents or opposed to a couple patches to be made but I am a bit nervous about no subframe even intact on this.
     
  9. 2935ford
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,574

    2935ford
    Member

    I've seen worse.

    If you are real handy with metal .....it's a start!
     
  10. Automotive Stud
    Joined: Sep 26, 2004
    Posts: 4,171

    Automotive Stud
    Member

    $3k seems reasonable for that. It will probably cost you a grand in floor/subrails/patches from brookville and you'll have to assemble it yourself. Anything in my neck of the woods that didn't need subrail repair would be over $5k.
     
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  11. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,097

    bct
    Member

    Spam ala ham
    20180419_180319.jpg
     
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  12. Inthemitten
    Joined: Jun 13, 2014
    Posts: 35

    Inthemitten
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If this thing was more local to me and not 8.5 hours away, I'd be way more willing to spend the $3k and as you state, get all the parts from Brookville and do the assembly. But, like @low down A pointed out - I should go and look at a few more too.
    As my first venture into the Model A world and all. My avatar shows the other car which is a '38 ford and I'm way more familiar with their problem areas, etc.

    This has been a wealth of knowledge already!
     
  13. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 27,957

    The37Kid
    Member

    We saved you 17 hours of drive time and gas. Bob
     
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  14. paul55
    Joined: Dec 1, 2010
    Posts: 3,398

    paul55
    Member
    from michigan

    I think you'd be further ahead with a Brookville body. More now, less in the long run.
     
  15. millersgarage
    Joined: Jun 23, 2009
    Posts: 2,084

    millersgarage
    Member

    I'd pass on that one.
    There are better bodies, and closer to you.
    A new Brookville is not a bad way to go. Just keep you eyes peeled, they are out there.
    probably be one in the swap at Gilmore tomorrow...
     
    Inthemitten likes this.
  16. MAD 034
    Joined: Aug 30, 2011
    Posts: 775

    MAD 034
    Member
    from Washington

    Too rough. Buy a Bville.
     
  17. Inthemitten
    Joined: Jun 13, 2014
    Posts: 35

    Inthemitten
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks (and to everyone!) - ended up having to be out of town otherwise the truck and trailer would have been soutbound to Gilmore for sure. Will keep hunting!
     
  18. oldolds
    Joined: Oct 18, 2010
    Posts: 3,140

    oldolds
    Member

    So $3000 for that body plus $1000 or more for floor related stuff. Or $6800 for a complete Brookville body? If you can do the metal work yourself it might be a hard decision to make. If you are paying for the metal work and body shop time the decision would not be so hard to make. If time is a factor the lead time to get the body built and delivered might have some influence on the decision.
     
  19. Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Joined: Apr 20, 2008
    Posts: 4,226

    Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Member

    ^^^^ Maybe $2000, plus another $2000 from Brookville (sub frame pieces and a passenger quarter panel)= $4000. Those quarters need a lot of labor. The passenger side is really lumpy. Take a close look at the bead line and guess how many hours you'd have into it to get it straight.

    A lot depends on your skills and how much mud is in the deck lid and doors? How straight ere they?
     
    Inthemitten likes this.

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