Register now to get rid of these ads!

Hot Rods 28 modified build downunder

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by striper, Jul 29, 2008.

  1. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,498

    striper
    Member

    Drewfus and Dyce. Both of your solutions look more planned out than mine. I just made it up as I went along.

    Ryan. You have done well to be ready for October. You put me to shame.

    I have an update. I have seats. No cushions, just seats. I found some old plywood. I was going to buy a new sheet but this is better. One piece used to be a work bench and each time I cut or drilled it, it gave off that old oily work shop smell. I think it'll be great on a hot day. When it gets hot it will probably give off that old smell...kind of like patina for the nose :)

    [​IMG]

    The seat bases just sit in place, located by anothe piece of ply screwed to the underside. I'll have just a little bit of storage under there. Maybe just enough for a tool roll or a street directory.

    [​IMG]

    I welded in two more pieces of 1" RHS to support the seat back and screwed a corresponding piece to each side of the back. These have little pins that hook behind the seat frame to positively locate it.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    You can also see the latch I installed to hold the seat back. I have a pice of string attached to operate it at the moment but I'll use a piece of leather or whetever my upholstery material ends up being (grey velour???)

    I picked up 3 of these latches for $10 a couple of years ago at a swap meet. Came in handy. You can also see in an earlier pic, the bolt that the latch closes on.

    [​IMG]

    There's a little bit of storage behind the seat too. Every little bit counts on a car like this. The seats are really firm when installed and the back works really well. When you pull the string it just pops forward about 6". Then it just lifts out if you need to take it out.

    Upholstery will come but is very low on the list of "to - dos" at the moment. I can live without it.

    More later,

    Pete
     
    brEad likes this.
  2. Hey Striper, those holes in the wood aren't going to allow much air to move, and your arse will know. Either a lot more holes in the centre region or even better, cut out the centres and stretch webbing* over/wrap and staple under. Weave the webbing in both directions. Then foam and the covering of your choice.

    *That slightly stretchy stuff that looks like seat belts.
     
    brEad likes this.
  3. The Lone Wolf
    Joined: May 19, 2007
    Posts: 145

    The Lone Wolf
    Member
    from Malta

    Great thread mate!!
    You have some awesome skills too
    Congrats and keep up the great work
     
  4. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,498

    striper
    Member

    Yeah, I was thinking about webbing. Only reason I didn't go that way was I wasn't sure I could get it tight enough that my arse wouldn't go through and touch the floor. Theres not much space between the seat and the floor. You got me thinking when you mentioned seat belt though. Maybe old seatbelts would give the sort of support I want while still allowing a small amount of give. (I know there's no give in seat belt webbing, but there would be a small amount due to me not being able to pull it super tight).

    If I just go with the ply, how many holes do you reckon I need? It's just somewhere for the air to go when you first sit down.
     
  5. 26T
    Joined: Jul 8, 2006
    Posts: 112

    26T
    Member
    from Denver

    This should be added to the tech archive along with Rolf,Paul, and Littlman's builds. One of my favorites of all time.
     
  6. FritzTownFord
    Joined: Apr 7, 2007
    Posts: 1,020

    FritzTownFord
    Member

    Just had to add a big thanks! I learned a ton on this thread so far.

    And I am familiar with that "nose patina" too. - LOL
     
  7. Striper, the webbing doesn't have to be super tight, when you weave it all it's fairly firm. Or you could use seatbelts the same way. Probably leave 3" or so of wood around the perimeter and web were your arse bones are - just remember to wrap it right around and staple underneath. It's just for a little extra give for the foam. Plus it lets the air out when you park in it!

    Re. holes. I reckon you'd need triple what you've got at least, but it will still be a hard base.

    Looking better all the time though.
     
    Last edited: Aug 22, 2008
  8. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,498

    striper
    Member

    Thanks X38. I'll have a think about my seats. At the moment I have somewhere to sit and I'll leave it at that for now. If I have cushions or upholstery some time this summer, I'll be happy.

    An Update.

    My rear end set up had me stumped for a long time. I am using a '48 Banjo that I converted to open drive. That necessitated a 3rd link or torque arm or something to handle the torque at the rear end. The trouble was that the 10" Z, 4" channel and the fact that I moved the body back as far as I could, left no room for any of that. The solution is the "Torque Fork" TM. This solution didn't come easily, even though to look at it now, it is very simple. The whole rear end and wish bone assembly is rigid and pivots in the ball housing within the centre crossmember. It works the same as an original Ford front end.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The fork straddles the drive shaft

    [​IMG]

    The rear of the fork is held in double shear between ears welded to my open drive conversion (end of the original torque tube)

    [​IMG]

    The front bolts to ears welded to the front of the wishbone near the pivot

    [​IMG]

    None of it is super beefy. However there will be very little stress on the wishbone or "Torque Fork" TM. There is no suspension bind due to the single pivot point. There will be a small amount of spring bind as it travels through an arc, but no more than on a standard Ford. Hope it works!

    Pete
     
    brEad likes this.
  9. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,498

    striper
    Member

    Just waiting for some new shackles to arrive and I can slide it under and start on my brakes etc.

    I bent up my old ones taking the spring in and out all the time without a spring spreader. Maybe I'll take some pics of the spreader I made. It works really good.
     
  10. Mate,

    Awesome! I'm loving this car.

    Danny
     
  11. Pete looking good. I'll echo x38's comments on the seat base with the webbing.

    Cragar and I modded my base's by cutting a hole and weaving webbing both ways.
    Believe me it works well AND it holds my bulk quite easily :D
    Plus its noticeably better to sit on.
     
  12. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,498

    striper
    Member

    Well, I should think so...little fella like you ;)

    I know of a place in West Heidelberg that used to have webbing (might still be there). Any other good suppliers or info on grades of webbing or such?

    Pete
     
  13. SixFive
    Joined: Aug 19, 2004
    Posts: 183

    SixFive
    Member

    Heidelberg sounds like Daleys. if its to hold your arse in the air just cut up some old seatbelts that are laying around. you can get a 2" webbing (non-seatbelt) from some awning/tent type companies but i would say just use free stuff. cross-weave it like people have said and you will notice the difference.
     
  14. Pete, everything has already been said, but still.....VERY impressive ! You're a highly talented craftsman ! Thanks for sharing it all at this detailed level. Love the stance and overall looks...
    /primerkid

    [​IMG]
     
  15. VanHorton
    Joined: Apr 7, 2007
    Posts: 585

    VanHorton
    Member

    looks good man, modifieds are awesome! i like what you've done with it and i am lovin the torque fork, good idea.
     
  16. fc ute
    Joined: Mar 7, 2001
    Posts: 166

    fc ute
    Member

    fantastic build striper, just goes to show there are talented builders in australia too
    i built a similar style windscreen a couple of years ago on one of my cars in a very similar fashion to how you describe
    heres the only in the build pic i could lay my hands on, i painted it in a silver metalic for a brushed aluminium look
     

    Attached Files:

  17. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,498

    striper
    Member

    I know that car! Recognised it from those couple of pics you posted. Do you still have it? I really liked it when I saw it in one of the Aussie mags. I wasn't keen on the IFS but I really like the idea behind that car.
     
  18. fc ute
    Joined: Mar 7, 2001
    Posts: 166

    fc ute
    Member

    it was a fun car built on the cheap and i only used the front end cause it was all i could afford. i had to sell it 6 weeks after liscencing it as i needed money, that was 2 and a half years ago, but a mate has just bought it back from the guy i sold it too. i have a similar one in the works at the moment but with opening doors and a T coupe style steel roof
     

    Attached Files:

  19. BAILEIGH INC
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,623

    BAILEIGH INC
    Alliance Vendor


    Nice!
     
  20. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 887

    Voh
    Member

    I know it has been said a number of times in this post, but WOW! you are good - real good!
     
  21. WOW, I just got my daily fix! I have been watching as the build progresses and have enjoyed every minute of it. Super work and great photos! Thank you for sharing.
     
  22. shawnc
    Joined: Aug 28, 2008
    Posts: 1

    shawnc
    Member
    from Belgium

    That car is looking wicked dude! Only thing I'd suggest is you put a good supply of custard in the secondary tank rather than avgas - as you never know when you might break down on a lonely road and need some supplies to live on whilst you wait for the tow truck! Either that or Ill send you some great Belgium beer to throw in there!
     
  23. any more progress man?
     
  24. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,498

    striper
    Member

    Been doing a lot of fiddly stuff lately. A lot of sandblasting and painting of small parts, making up a little cable operated mech for a lever action brake light switch.

    I have a rear hub set up in my lathe at the moment that needs to be machined to match the other one (obviously an odd pair on the rear I bought). My gearbox is in pieces all over my work bench getting a rebuild.

    The body is ready for final blocking before paint. Not that it's really gonna get a serious blocking job. I've done virtually no "bodywork" as such. It was never supposed to be one of those cars.

    There's stuff happening but it's not very photo worthy. Oh, and my wife has been sick for a month with pneumonia (in hospital for the last week). I've been Mr Mom.

    I'll post something soon just to keep my thread alive :)

    Pete
     
  25. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,498

    striper
    Member

    OK, I had a couple of pics in the camera so in the interest of trying to regain some momentum in this thread and more importantly, in my hot rod build, I'll put them up.

    [​IMG]

    Anybody know how to rebuild a Muncie?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    No....me either.

    I bought a rebuild kit that has all the small parts like synchros, rollers, bearings, C-clips etc. It doesn't have any of the stuff that wears out though.

    That's probably a bit harsh. It's just that to my inexperienced eye, all of those parts look pretty good. I'd say this box has had a going over of sorts in the not too distant past. Most of it looks good except for one slider which is fairly badly worn. Since it's apart and I have the kit (and I just want to do it) I'll put all the new stuff in. I'm just waiting to hear from dmarv form Exeter Auto Supply to get back to me re the slider. Anyone know Dan? Give him a jab and tell him to PM me. He hasn't been on here for some time.

    I also decided to blast and paint my rear hubs before I put them back on the rearend. Only then did I notice I have 2 different hubs. One is 1/4" thick and has a good shoulder for my brake drum to register on. The other is 3/8" thick and has virtually no shoulder. So I'm going to even them up. I'll machine the 3/8" one down to 1/4" and that will give me the shoulder I need. (Aftermarket drums fit outside the hubs)

    [​IMG]
     
  26. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,498

    striper
    Member

    Nearly forgot. Before I could blast and paint my hubs I had to get the hubs and drums apart. I read some horror stories on here about damaging hubs when removing swedged studs.

    This is what I did.

    [​IMG]

    I drilled around the swedge into the stud on an angle to allow the swedge to break free

    [​IMG]

    Then I just pressed the studs out. They still took a bit of pressure to pop out but I didn't break anything. I did support under the drum around the stud with a piece of pipe cut to the appropriate length.

    Pete
     
  27. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,498

    striper
    Member

    Just as an aside, here's a spring spreader I made. Works really well. No goos for reversed eyes though.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    You don't need to use a padlock. I just ran out of D shackles :)
     
  28. Chris5.7ltr
    Joined: Aug 3, 2008
    Posts: 31

    Chris5.7ltr
    Member

    No matter how many times I see a gearbox pulled a part and put back together they still scare me... lol

    Sorry to hear about your wife being sick to, hope she gets better soon.
     
  29. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,498

    striper
    Member

    Seriously...I do not know how to rebuild it. That's why I'm doing it. Only one way to get over being scared. I'm getting too old to be scared of stuff. You just have to dive in.

    Pete
     
    brEad likes this.
  30. Good luck mate, you have done an awesome job so far. Hope your your wife is coming good
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.