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Projects '28 Model A Pickup Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by SpasticDwarf, Jan 10, 2012.

  1. SpasticDwarf
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 26

    SpasticDwarf
    Member
    from TN

    Hello all!

    I thought about posting up in the intro section first but figured a long-term build thread should be here, so I suppose I'll give a bit of an introduction.

    My name is Mike, I'm 22, and I'm a diehard BMW guy. Classic American metal has always been of interest and inspiration, so I decided to take the plunge.

    [​IMG]

    It's far from a complete car, but has what I think I need to get what I want out of it.
    My end goal is an unrestored hot rod, original patina, as you see. I'd like to keep the car as simple as I can.

    I have few prior fabrication skills but we all have to start somewhere. I suppose we'll see what happens.

    The build will be a long-term one, with several iterations I assume. I'm sure some of my tastes will be questionable but I think part of the idea behind what we do is putting our own flare and style on our work.

    So here goes!
     
  2. Best to still do an intro... but I will check out your build
     
  3. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,428

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    sweet love the simple A pick up trucks
     
  4. SpasticDwarf
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 26

    SpasticDwarf
    Member
    from TN

    I picked 'er up on Sunday, and for the rest of the week she'll have to sit outside the shop, so I can't dive in to anything until then, but as I said I know very little about these cars. I've been reading up on suspension designs and the terminology of everything, so I wanted to A) see what I am working with and B) get rid of the fenders and front end nonsense.

    [​IMG]

    Fender number one off

    [​IMG]

    And number two.

    Pulled off the running board verticals (not sure what you guys call them) and set it all back together.

    [​IMG]

    Much more in line with what I'm wanting in the end. Figured visualizing it would be a good start. Again, hoping to roll it in to the shop later this week and start really going at it.
     

  5. SpasticDwarf
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 26

    SpasticDwarf
    Member
    from TN

    I think first on my big list of things after getting it in to the shop is getting it to sit how I'd like it to. From my preliminary searching it sounds like drop beams are the way to go up front, along with splitting the wishbone and other tidbits.

    Out back it looks like Zing the frame is what will be needed to get the drop I want out of it. I've heard mixed reviews on doing so, so any insight would be appreciated.

    As of now I'm hunting for a 6" drop beam.
     
  6. Splitting the bones does not make the car lower. It's for oil pan clearance when installing a different engine. If it was my truck I'd run reverse eye springs front and rear and remove a couple leaves from each pack. I'd do a frame height step in the rear and raise the bed so the crossmember doesn't protrude into the floor. I'd install either a dropped 32 heavy or a 33-36 axle dropped 4 inch total and run 5.50x16 front and 7.50x16 rear.
     
  7. SpasticDwarf
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 26

    SpasticDwarf
    Member
    from TN

    I assumed there was frame clearance issues if you dropped past a certain point with the stock wishbone. Nonetheless I'll be splitting them anyways with the engine I plan on running.

    But hugely appreciated as far as the insight and opinion.

    Any place I can further read up on the 32 or 33-36 axle?
     
  8. RainierHooker
    Joined: Dec 20, 2011
    Posts: 2,018

    RainierHooker
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    Hey there Spastic. Good to see another BMW convert over here.

    -From another r3v guy
     
  9. No clearance issues as the perch hole remains in the same location.*

    Have you not seen the tech archives?

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=8

    Read the sticky at the top of the page that will tell you how to use that forum.

    But here is the thread I think you should read. it has a couple links to follow.

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=163664

    But basically all you need to know is that that as far as stock Ford axles go they can be dropped the most.
     
  10. Looks like a good start!
     
  11. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 15,788

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER


    No reason in the world you can't use the original front axle instead of the 32 or 33-36. In fact, the A can probably be dropped farther since there is more room between the perch and the kingpin. And, they will cost WAY less, especially since you already have one.

    Look up 296V8 in the rollodex for dropping services. His axles look beautiful.
     
  12. Yep, 296V8. Check out this here:

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=614475
     
  13. SpasticDwarf
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 26

    SpasticDwarf
    Member
    from TN

    Thanks for the info guys. Will certainly give him a call about an axle. I have several more questions to ask you guys which I will post after I update this thread with today's photos.
     
  14. SpasticDwarf
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 26

    SpasticDwarf
    Member
    from TN

    I finally moved the truck in to the "shop". Plenty of room to work on it and start diving in... or rather walking down the steps in to the shallow end.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I wanted to start visualizing where i want the truck to be in the end. While it's a far cry from what I see in my head, I figured I'd at least do what I could at the moment for some motivation.

    I pulled off the bed-
    [​IMG]

    and then the bed riser-
    [​IMG]

    To get the final look I want out of the truck, I want to move the cab back. Before doing so, I marked where it was initially.

    [​IMG]

    Then I measured back 6.5", the amount I currently plan on shortening the bed. I came to this amount by measuring from the front end of the bed to the first "post slot". Seems like a good line to go with, and moves the cab back closer to the rear wheel, which I like.

    [​IMG]

    Cab moved back-
    [​IMG]

    I then put the bed back on the truck for now (held in place by the tow strap for now). this way I can start visualizing things. (I'm a visual person)

    [​IMG]

    Much better. :)

    The first thing I wanted to tackle was the doors. I have no hinges and both doors are were held on with duct tape from the previous owner.
    [​IMG]

    After some googling and realizing I don't want to spend the fortune on re-cast hinges or even the $100ish on the alternatives I found, I figured I'd tackle it myself. I'm sure some of you are already placing your faces in your hands and shaking your heads, but it's all in the name of learning and doing it yourself for me.

    I started with some heavy duty hinges:
    [​IMG]

    And then I cut them in half which was proportionately perfect for the A. The pins are attached to the one side, so they don't come apart as is.

    [​IMG]

    Marking out where I want to recess the hinge:
    [​IMG]

    Prepping to cut:
    [​IMG]

    chop chop! (hey that's me!)
    [​IMG]

    test fit: (which was later revised as the center of the hinge pin is too close to the body to pivot correctly with the door installed, but I didn't take a later pic:
    [​IMG]

    Tackin'
    [​IMG]

    Obviously the lower hinges have to sit way off the body in order to function properly and sit in line with the upper hinge, so I had to modify the lower one by extending it:
    [​IMG]
     
  15. SpasticDwarf
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 26

    SpasticDwarf
    Member
    from TN

    First actual weld ever:
    [​IMG]

    Lining up the hinges and marking my cuts for the lower hinge:
    [​IMG]

    Tacked in and the other side extended (my 2nd ever weld)
    [​IMG]

    Progress of grinding them smooth again (not complete)
    [​IMG]

    And both hinges done and tacked in place. The door functions great, pretty pleased with the outcome. My first time actually fabricating anything like this.

    [​IMG]

    I need to go in and fill the gap on the top hinge and then weld them in to place once I am sure everything works well and the hinging function is smooth with the door on.

    As said in the beginning, I'm totally new to the fabricating thing, so don't go too hard on me. Lots of learning to go! :eek:
     
  16. mastergun1980
    Joined: Oct 18, 2010
    Posts: 1,095

    mastergun1980
    Member
    from Alva OK

    Look up joe's speed shop it's in ponca city oklahoma and he can drop your front axle and make it look great. And the rear I agree with hitchhiker.
     
  17. Desert_Rat
    Joined: Sep 30, 2011
    Posts: 73

    Desert_Rat
    Member

    Looking forward to seeing the next step, thanks for sharing!!


    ~Dustin
     
  18. SpasticDwarf
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 26

    SpasticDwarf
    Member
    from TN

    Thanks guys. So question about front suspension options-

    In the end I want this truck sitting low. Very low. I know that a drop axle won't get me to where I want to be, so in short- what other options are common? Does anyone run the axle above the frame?

    I have no interest in Z'ing the front of the frame upwards. It seems as though to get what I want I'll need to either run the axle above the frame or in front of the end of the frame.
    Any further insight would be extremely helpful, or perhaps a link to a build thread or reference photos so I can educate myself.
     
  19. Dynaflash_8
    Joined: Sep 24, 2008
    Posts: 3,016

    Dynaflash_8
    Member
    from Auburn WA

    sounds to me like you wanna build a r@t r0d. Very sad indeed.
     
  20. voodoo1
    Joined: Jun 27, 2007
    Posts: 452

    voodoo1
    Member

    Thats kinda what I got from reading, "either run the axle above the frame or in front of the end of the frame."

    Well good luck....
     
  21. metal man
    Joined: Dec 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,945

    metal man
    Member

    You've got a really nice piece to start with.Since this is a site for traditionally styled hot rods,and you are new to such vehicles,I'm going to suggest you look at a lot of pictures for inspiration before you get too carried away.

    I understand wanting it low,but after you're around for a while,I think you will come to realize that lower isn't better on everything.

    Study a lot of pictures of model A's....particularly trucks,this may develop your taste and keep you from building something you're not crazy about five years from now.Check out a great thread on here titled "favorite model A's" or something like that.

    I don't know much about the particular truck in the attached pic,just something I found with a quick search...but in my opinion,if it were any lower, it would not look any better.

    When it comes to Model A Fords, less is more.
     

    Attached Files:

  22. metal man
    Joined: Dec 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,945

    metal man
    Member

    Another example of a Model A hiboy truck that would not look any better closer to the ground.

    This one uses a '32 style frame.

    What makes or breaks these things is wheel and tire size and placement next to the body.

    Welcome to the H.A.M.B and good luck with your build.
     

    Attached Files:

  23. metal man
    Joined: Dec 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,945

    metal man
    Member

    I think the boys are afraid that you might end up with something more like this mess. Waste of time and tin.
     

    Attached Files:

  24. SpasticDwarf
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 26

    SpasticDwarf
    Member
    from TN

    No rat rod here.
    Apologies if my example/question was the wrong way to ask. As I've said, I'm trying to learn. :)
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2012
  25. metal man
    Joined: Dec 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,945

    metal man
    Member

    You are correct that low does not equal r#t Rod. It's just that a few of the elements you described are common among r#t rods, and we don't know you yet.

    Some guys on here get a little jumpy,but most of us are here to help;)

    When someone new to traditional hot rod building comes along,we feel a sense of duty in protecting their old tin from becoming something we don't approve of.

    Oh, and here's another one I like.
     

    Attached Files:

  26. SpasticDwarf
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 26

    SpasticDwarf
    Member
    from TN

    I more than understand the jumpyness and the desire to keep this forum the way you guys want it. I just ask for an open mind and some time to let me get this project moving forward before you shut it down.
     
  27. You want a dropped axle? PM oneyellowtub....he had one for sale out at the autorama in Murfreesboro yesterday. Lucky 7 axle with spindles and 40 brakes--$300
     
  28. VoodooTwin
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 3,455

    VoodooTwin
    Member
    from Noo Yawk

    You can run the stock axle in a "suicide" configuration to get it super low, and still have the truck be 'traditional'.
     
  29. SpasticDwarf
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 26

    SpasticDwarf
    Member
    from TN

    Ah, damn. I just moved from Murfreesboro a bit over a month ago or I'd have come out.
    I'm actually in Newport, CA now. But thank you for the heads up!
     
  30. SpasticDwarf
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 26

    SpasticDwarf
    Member
    from TN

    EDIT:
    Huge thanks for that tidbit of info. "suicide" was the term I was looking for, and has yielded many search results. That's how I will be running the front.

    Again, huge thanks!
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2012

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