The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 55willys, Jul 14, 2021.
Nice setup! Now I'm going to have to get a brake lathe. It never ends...
Got mine at the local tire shop. He had two, one set up for disc and the other for drum. Bought both with all the adapters for $150. They just started taking their stuff across the street to the auto parts store because it was cheaper and easier than doing it themselves.
Cut a junk brake rotor off and bolted the first wheel to it. Almost got it cut apart when something happened to the wiring or the motor on my brake lathe. I will look into it later and figure it out but for now this is what I have.
I am looking at hood options. I have a stock 27 T hood for measurements. The hood needs to be lengthen 5-1/4" and I want it to come down to the top of the frame rail. I have been looking at using a model A hood but even the 30-31 is about an inch too short. Thinking about just forming a hood from aluminum sheet. Not sure on weather to make a 3 or 4 piece hood. I was thinking about using woven wire mesh in the sides rather than louvers. The other area to look at is how to latch the hood. Looking for ideas and options.
Here it is with the grill shell in the proper location.
Cool project...keep the pics coming!
Great start following.
In my opinion for what it's worth, I like it and can imagine the hood that much longer. 3 pieces and how about leather straps and buckles
I think that I have decided to make the hood out of aluminum. I am pretty sure I will use stainless woven wire mesh in the sides instead of louvers. Contemplating running the exhaust out through the side panel and splitting the side panel above and below similar to a Duesenberg SJ supercharged car has.
I am going to run naturally aspirated for now but have a turbocharged manifold and a pair of 97 carbs to go on it. This would require a hood top change because they will stick out the top. The turbocharged manifold also dumps out on the driver's side instead of the passenger side so pretty much would have to remake all of the hood and sides at that point.
I am thinking that a 3 piece hood would be better if the carbs come through so I might as well start with that design. I was thinking about placing a square tube bar down each side to attach the tops of the side panels to and use 28-29 hood latches bolted to the frame at the bottom.
I could use a Dan Fink hood latch kit for the top although that wouldn't be as traditional as I would like. I was also thinking a spring loaded rod with a knob out through the top of the side panel might work as well. The hood top could pivot open either way or be lifted straight off. The side panels can be removed separately. I am also thinking about using 26-27 T hood latches at the bottom.
Any thoughts on these ideas are welcome.
The first pic is of model A hood latches and I prefer the 3 bolt design.
The second picture is model T hood latches and I prefer the middle one in brass and the brass hood clips.
The hood strap kit is also an option but I don't prefer it.
Great start . Looking forward to the progress. thanks
Got one wheel cut apart and second one cut but not separated. After cutting the welds in the brake lathe I had to heat the rim with a torch to expand it and beat the center out with a big hammer. Looks like I will have to remove the band off the center.
Some hood ideas.
Thanks Marty, looks great.
The aluminium hood is 15" over stock length and is fastened by leather straps on spring hooks
Yes... I did build it in there
Does anyone have the dimensions of a 32 Ford roadster windshield? I'm pretty set on a fold down windshield. I think that I could use 2" chop 32 posts and mounts with a lower 27 T windshield frame. Not sure if the 32 lower stanchions will fit the 27 T cowl. The other option is to modify the 27 T posts to accept the 32 foldable posts and use the 27 T windshield.
Here is another one, using stainless, twist and fold down latches.
I personally really like the looks of the loooong hoods. Kind of reminds me of Lady Gaga... I personally like her nose!
Looking at another hood option is using the 28-29 hood sides and grill shell. This still lines up with the outside frame rails but gets a bit tight to the water pump and doesn't fit well with the front spring. The grill shell will of course have to be shortened, this is just to get a visual.
Chucked up the wide five hub in the brake lathe and turned down the center. I cut the back side even with the edge of the center so when I weld it it will not rely on the rivets.
Flipped it around in the brake lathe and cut the front side. Had to use a brake drum damper on it to keep down the chatter. It ended up being about 7/8" wide and I will be able to weld the front side of the spokes to the rim. The rivets are still in place holding the center on.
Used my rubber headed mallet to tap the rim on the center. Hand turned the rim and adjusted it until the cutter was hitting in multiple places. If anyone has had experience with rims they are close but not perfect from the factory.
I'm liking the look of the wider wheels but am not sure about the ring of the old rim between the spokes. I could cut it out between the spokes or find a way to hide the edge. I need that little bit of rim to make the center tight to the hoop it's about 1/16" thick. I will post some pics Monday.
I'll be following.
Getting the modified off the cart and on the ground.
The edge that I am not liking. Thinking about cutting it out between the spokes and tig welding it front and rear at the spoke. Any thoughts on that?
Imho it looks like you could weld all the way around the band and grind it smooth on the outside so that it looks like it is actually part of the wheel hoop. Sort of trick the eye into seeing it as smooth. Then a second bead at each spoketo further trick the eye and effect a strong connection between the center and the hoop.
Great job. As I said before now to get me a brake lathe...
Hit it with some rattle can black and see how it looks?
I am with Dave on this one, what he suggests the wheels would be strong and look good.
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