First post, so please be gentle 8^) I want to build a Track T. This is not something I want to do as a fad, but because I have wanted one for the past 35 years or so. I know the focus on this forum is pre-65, and I fully understand the aversion to fiberglass street rods. I am however pretty limited in my ability to go find original steel, to say nothing of working it clean, and would very much like to *not* get my sorry butt kicked off this great site - so my question is: Is there any way I can fit in here on the H.A.M.B. and still build with a repo glass body? I do intend an I-beam and split wishbones, and an over-all early sprint car look. While I don't want an SBC, I don't want a flathead either - I intend to build this as a nearly-daily driver, but with a stripped down flavor to it. No monster rear tires or mega chromed engine. I LOVE the little trackster that "Drive Em" built, and in fact, seeing pictures of his frame come up in a Google search is what led me to this forum in the first place. I would like to start a build thread when I *do* start building, but don't want to either offend anyone, or get laughed off the board. If this is not something that is going to be socially acceptable here, I'll just keep my mouth shut and my eyes open and glean what I can. Please advise! Thanks, Brad
buy a model A frame and start your chassis and drivetrain while you look for a steel body.they are everywhere, it just takes time.
Good sound advice. But if you've lurked on here much, you've seen more glass cars than you realize. Build what you want and can afford. my 2ct. And welcome aboard.
There are many great 'glass cars represented on the HAMB, search for T bucket threads and you'll find lots. The reasons you stated are the same ones I used when starting my roadster. I owned a steel body for a couple weeks I had found when my car was in final assembly, but I realized the skill to bring it back and/or the funds to have someone else do it eluded me. The steel body went to a better home and I finished my car, been racking up miles ever since. You'll find people who won't like "tupperware" cars and you'll find plenty who say build what you like and can afford. Good luck with your project!
Don't worry about the opinions of other folks about fibreglas cars. The T roadster 'glass bodies began being offered for sale in the mid-late50s and have been around since then. I believe that falls into the traditional realm right at home here.
Word has it that the guy who bought my steel bodied T bucket in the mid 70's took the steel body off and put a glass body on it so it goes both ways. I'm going out on a limb and say that the rest of the parts you use in the build carry more weight with most guys on here then if the body is glass or steel. If the chassis,engine, wheels and tires, gauges and interior pieces are right 99% of the guys won't care about the body and that other 1% feels that it is their call to nitpick everything they don't see as 100% pre (pick a date) that shows up. Funny thing is that most of them own rust buckets that don't run and we never see any progress photos out of them. The guys out busting their ass in the garage putting a car together and then taking a Hamb break will appreciate the effort if it is a true effort at building a track roadster.
I have seen a good few 'glass cars on here so you will not be kicked off 'cos yours is 'glass bodied. Steel is nice though. Being in the UK steel bodies are few and far between so I am building my own exact copy '27 T body from scratch. Got a thread on here somewhere. Good luck with the build I will watch out for it. David
I mentioned to a buddy I was casually looking for a steel t.....low and behold, same day, I was told about a very clean 27 roadster body...Dont give up on the search, clean ones are still there
If you can afford it buy a stretched fiberglass body. If you are over 5' 10" and 180 lbs a standard body is pretty small. Your MOST IMPORTANT ITEM is registration, before you spend a dime on the car find out what your home state or where you are now what the requirements are. You do not want to build a Track T that is registered as a 2012 Ford. Yes people use a Model A frame because it has numbers for registration, again check it out with Motor Vehicles. A Model A Frame is 80 years old and will need to be sliced and diced and boxed for a Track T. A new rectangular tubing frame, 1 1/2" x 3" x .125" is a easy build on a garage floor even if you pay somebody a $100 to weld it. Before all of the builders say 1 1/2" x 3" is to small look at a Speedway Catalouge or my albums, my avatar has been driven the last six summers with no problems. Do not be afraid of a four cylinder or a v6.Do some sketchs of side view to kinda choose a wheel base, front axle location, suicide, reverse suicide, standard cross member. Chaneled or on top of frame, rear suspension early Ford spring or coil overs, four bar or hairpins or split bones as you said in your question. Lots of luck and do not be afraid to ask questions.
Here is one of my favorite Track Cars built in 1968-69, belongs to a friend of mine, now 81, and still building a car every couple of years. The front end is a 47-48 Ford dogleg radius rod with spring behind axle, 42-48 brakes and Chrysler Imperial wheels, Mustang/Falcon steering box. Steering column is early 60s Chevy van. Rear end is big Olds with Corvair coils and with Toronado wheels. SBC and PowerGlide drivetrain. One-piece tilt nose over Mustang/Falcon radiator. Turtle deck is mounted higher on body and capped below with a modified turtle deck. Storage in tail is adequate for emergency supplies and is weather-resistant. Fuel tank, mounted under deck at back of body, is moulded fibreglass with capacity of 13.5 gallons. Battery mounts indeck at right rear. OH yeah, I am 6' and 245, my son is 6'3" and 165. Comfortable with a working suspension. Thes pics taken at NTBA Nats in Mountain Home AR in 2004. Just a 1000 mile round trip for the long weekend.
"..... While I don't want an SBC, I don't want a flathead either -....." You have got my attention. Go with it !!
I built my dirt t with 1.5"X 3" 1/8" wall. it had a Chevy II motor it was worn out and replaced with a V6 Chevy, I am 5'10" and over 180 and yes it's tight , but just right for me and the boss. If you want pictures PM me and I'll send them.
I have built 10 "Track" 'T's in the last 16 years or so,we "vintage" raced them for a while around here,they were mostly 23-25 fiberglass bodies, one was a steel 27. I prefer 4x2 main frame rails with the front 3' section tapered from 4" to 3", it gives the appearance of a model A rail. I use 3X2 for the rear kick ups along with a model A rear crossmember and spring. If you use OEM Ford front axle and "split bones", along with keeping with the theme of an original racer, a fiberglass body will save you a lot of time and money, and look fine. The #19 was raced by a friend of mine in the 40's and 50's.
Lots of good suggestions already posted. Not a thing wrong with a fiberglass body.............especially for a first build. After building "real steel" for over 40 years I recently picked up a fiberglass '29 roadster body at an auction and I'm going to build a car I've always wanted......a '29 highboy roadster on '32 rails. At this late date I'm a little on the large size for this car but I'll have just the right amount of money invested that I'll be able to sell it quickly if I find I can't use it. You'll find a lot of great help on this site so don't be afraid to ask if your in doubt about how to proceed with a certain aspect of the build. Keep us posted about your progress...........we're addicted to build pictures and progress reports. Frank
Thanks all for your encouragement. I have been assured by the Treasury Department (my wife!) that I will have monthly apportioned funds beginning the first of February. So until then I am cleaning and organizing my shop and getting tools and whatever else I can in order, practicing welding, and all the myriad other tasks that go into preparation for significant shop work. Oh yeah - that includes planning and resourcing parts! Thanks, Brad
What good supportive advice,go with the glass as you will find a steel one one day.I like the look of Ts on A frames. My rpu is on one and i think it gives them a slender light weight look.Keen to see what motor you choose.All the best with your build, you have my support. JW
Brad, Welcome to the HAMB ! I am building a '29 "A" Modified. The frame is a double Z'd frame from my friend Eric at Riley Auto Parts in Colorado. The body was a prototype '29 "A" RPU body by my friend Bob at Bpaw's Garage in Colorado. The rest is my imagination. The axles are '41 Ford spare parts and the mill is a Mustang 2.3 Banger motor with a 5-speed tranny. It is still in progress but hope it will be a runner in a year or so. Dave
X2! I've seem ads in Hot Rod mag back in the 60's...hang on a sec... Here we go: Hot Rod July, 1960 Page 8..."whats new" column. Quote "Glass-Tee Roadsters With those choice original bodies becoming harder and harder to find, the new units offered by Custom Associates, H7, of 4585 Fountain Ave, Holywood 29, California should prove highly desirable. Exact replicas of the famous "T" roadsters made of reinforced fiberglass." Unquote T 27 had full deck and flush doors for just $124.50...primed and ready to install. You're safe!
The biggest problem for new builders is burnout. For your first build a fiberglass body will speed up the process and give you a good result. I love the look of a 26/27 T roadster. I'm 6'2" tall and 200 pounds and I just don't fit. I have a 26 Model T two door sedan that I am off and on building and it is tight. Thank you for your service.
The Jalopy Journal
