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Projects 27 T Roadster build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by dubie, Jan 8, 2015.

  1. dubie
    Joined: Aug 17, 2004
    Posts: 698

    dubie
    Member

    I pulled the trigger his past weekend on a trade, my 56 Chevy sedan project for a 27 Roadster.
    This will be the first build I've taken on that's this old, everything else has been from the 50's and 60's. I'd like to build this is a traditional roadster. Lower the stance, painted steel wheels, small block powered, auto trans etc..... The very first poster of a hot rod that went up on my wall was a Ford Roadster when I was 13, that was 27 years ago so I've waited a long time to get started on a car like this.

    What I'm going to be looking for is some advice from the HAMB experts on best way to build this car. I've read a lot about swapping the T frame for and A if I'm going to use a small block power plant. I'd also like to hear your thought on the best way to get this thing lower to the ground and still ride decent.

    Here's a shot of it mocked up, the engine will be a 283 with a Th350 tranny, not what you see in the pic. I'll also include a shot of what I have in mine for a finished product stance and style. Any suggestions are welcome and advice is always appreciated guys. I'm an open book here
     

    Attached Files:

    kiwijeff likes this.
  2. Well I like where you are headed with this. A swap to an A chassis is very traditional for a T and way cheaper then to use deuce rails.

    I am curious, what is that grill shell? It looks good albeit different from the norm.
     
  3. dubie
    Joined: Aug 17, 2004
    Posts: 698

    dubie
    Member

    Not sure what the shell is from. It didn't come with the car
     
  4. DERPR30
    Joined: Jun 3, 2010
    Posts: 807

    DERPR30
    Member
    from HARVEY LA

    GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR PROJECT
     

  5. I would sure keep that grill shell, maybe it will need to be trimmed down a little bit but it has a good look to it.

    I would avoid getting all crazy with the dropping method, a simple Z in the rear and a dropped axle in the front. Keep it simple.
     
  6. dubie
    Joined: Aug 17, 2004
    Posts: 698

    dubie
    Member

    that's whats intended with this build, keep it simple, keep it traditional, keep it cool. How much of a Z in the frame would be required if I use a 3" dropped axle?
     
  7. Bulletnose26
    Joined: Jul 21, 2013
    Posts: 170

    Bulletnose26
    Member

    Good luck on your new journey. Looks like you have some great bones to start with.
    The photo of where you are headed looks good, the advice you get here on this forum, is second to none!
    Search for some of the chassis threads, mega info with regard to chassis set-up.
    I would post some links, but don't now how.
     
  8. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,587

    volvobrynk
    Member
    from Denmark

    Looking good, avatar and plan.

    Looks a little like a Chevy grill, and one more on the keep it team. :)

    The 283, with all the right parts is hot, I feel not the same way about the th350, why do you want a car with a gearbox build for the one legged man ;)

    How about a good manual gearbox, most anything manual can be made to look the part.
    Like you plans so far. Black on black with a tilted windshield, never seen that go bad!
     
  9. I wouldn't Z the front at all a 3" drop axle will put you pretty close to where that example is, with the proper spring and mounting location.

    I used bad terminology I should have said step the frame as I meant the rear and not the front. it should not take much of a step ( perhaps a little less than frame width) to get your rear where you want it.

    A little advice on channeling the '27 ( I assume that you will want to do that) if you want to sit in a '37 and not on a '27 you can't channel it very much. The roadster is not a deep body to start with.

    I think I have an example of a channeled '27 in one of my albums. Let me find it for you.

    This car here is channeled the width of an original T frame ( about 3") and you sit right on the floor in it.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2015
    volvobrynk likes this.
  10. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 4,073

    rusty rocket
    Member

    Im not a big fan of deuce grills on Ts or A frames for that matter. When put on an A frame the body looks like its hang out in the middle of nowhere. When put on a pinched 32 frame it gives the car more flow. Just my two cents.
     
  11. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 14,691

    Squablow
    Member

    I would suggest a dropped axle front and reversed spring eyes front and rear, maybe a flattened front crossmember and a frame-height step in the rear, if any. My '26 is on an A frame with 6.00 and 6.50 16"s, dropped axle but straight rails and I think it's plenty low, for my taste, although rear end travel clearance is probably a bit too tight, we'll see. Mine will not be channeled, just not enough room in a T to not look silly when you're sitting in it, unless you're really short in my opinion.

    I personally like the front axle to be directly underneath the grille shell/radiator. A lot of T's and some A's even like to use a suicide mount to push the front axle out front, to make it lower and give a stretched out look, but I personally am not a fan. Here's my A frame awaiting the T body to go back on it (body is out getting painted right now).

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    kiwijeff and bct like this.
  12. dubie
    Joined: Aug 17, 2004
    Posts: 698

    dubie
    Member

    Thanks for all the starting out tips guys. I'm going to look for some pictures do a 26 or 27 on an A frame that haven't been channelled to much. I'm 6'-1" so I need to keep as much room as I can
     
  13. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 15,121

    Paul
    Editor

  14. spooler41
    Joined: Feb 25, 2007
    Posts: 1,099

    spooler41
    Member

    Paul , your roadster is looking good. I've missed seeing regular
    updates on it.

    ......................... Jack
     
  15. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 15,121

    Paul
    Editor

    Thanks man, one of these days...
     
  16. dubie
    Joined: Aug 17, 2004
    Posts: 698

    dubie
    Member

    Scored a grill she'll for it last night
     

    Attached Files:

    bct likes this.
  17. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 15,121

    Paul
    Editor

    sweet, a chopped down '30-'31
     
  18. dubie
    Joined: Aug 17, 2004
    Posts: 698

    dubie
    Member

    Does anyone have a tech article for making small independent wheel fenders? Our provincial safety standards state that I'm going to need fenders but I'm not sold on the full factory fender look of these roadsters.
    Something like on this one
     

    Attached Files:

  19. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,587

    volvobrynk
    Member
    from Denmark

    I've been looking in to fenders of a bike.
    I live in a country that wants us to run fenders.
    I believe the triumph fenders look the part, but there might be other, that fits the bill. Depends on wheel and tire size.
    The might be something else available on you side. It was common practice back in the day to run bike fenders, bobbed rear fenders, or cut up continental kits/front fender spare wheel covers.


    Rasmus Brynk Andersen, from Denmark.
     
  20. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,858

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Paul, your old RPU is for sale, you NEED to buy it back :)
     
  21. A lot of the fellas make them from spare tire covers. One cover equals 2 fenders. I am sure that if you search there is tech on the subject. I have used rear fenders from a limey bike before as well as steel flat fenders from a chopper.

    For the rears if you want a wider fender a cut down model A fender or even a cut down T fender will work. Boat trailer fenders are another option.
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  22. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,858

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I'm going to try my hand at making my own cycle fenders. I have a bead roller and a shrinker stretcher set so it should be do-able.
    I also have a set of 1 1/2" rounding over dies that I got from Ron Covell.
    Google Ron Covell building a cycle fender and you can see how it's done. :)
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  23. I happened to be looking at a tech thread on cycle fenders just two days ago and saved it to my bookmarks...

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/cycle-fenders-how-to.276283/#post-2932613

    Is that what you're after?

    Glen.
     
  24. dubie
    Joined: Aug 17, 2004
    Posts: 698

    dubie
    Member

    That is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you Glen
     
  25. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 15,121

    Paul
    Editor

    I was playing around with and still might go head with hood and fenders on my roadster,
    like in this early construction photo..
    thanks for all the ideas

    [​IMG]
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  26. I like that look.
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  27. dubie
    Joined: Aug 17, 2004
    Posts: 698

    dubie
    Member

    what year is that grill shell Paul?
     
  28. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 4,073

    rusty rocket
    Member

    Looks like a 28 29 chopped down abit.
     
  29. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 15,121

    Paul
    Editor

    Yep, chopped 2-1/2"
     
  30. dubie
    Joined: Aug 17, 2004
    Posts: 698

    dubie
    Member

    hey guys, I'm making a list of parts to order to get this into a rolling chassis as quick as I can.
    Where do you recommend for brakes? I'd like t use the 40 Ford hydraulic brakes up front, is there any place that sells this as a kit?
     

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