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Projects '27 Roadster Build.

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Texas36, Aug 29, 2015.

  1. Thanks! Tomorrow Im going to try to get something Ive been wanting to do for a while done. Cant wait to show everyone.


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  2. I have never been anywhere that cold before! Down here in Houston the coldest it gets is about 40, any lower and the city practically shuts down. Although it did snow one morning here. First time Ive ever seen snow! Post some pictures of your coupe, Ide love to see more!


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  3. Great job on the steering arm but please wear safety glasses when on the lath or any power tool. I have had an eye injury and its no fun.
    Cant wait for the surprise.!! :D JW
     
    patmanta and Texas36 like this.
  4. Jake Sippl
    Joined: Nov 11, 2015
    Posts: 267

    Jake Sippl
    Member
    from Detroit MI

    Check out my build thread! There should be a link in my signature. Don't want to hijack your thread! haha. Stoked to see what you've been wanting to get done!
     
    Texas36 likes this.
  5. Im not MIA yall, got some cool updates coming probably tomorrow...


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  6. The steering wheel Im using is a 1930s banjo wheel with a GM spline. Ive researched to figure out what exactly it came off of but never could find another exactly like it. I got it from a guy who had it hanging in his barn years ago and I wrapped it with string. Its one of my favorite pieces about this car but I digress.
    The F1 column has a spline but does not match up with the GM spline so I ordered a tri five steering shaft, cut it and turned down the end of it to be able to slide into the hollow F1 shaft. IMG_6797.JPG IMG_6798.JPG
    It was then TIG welded. I have no worries about it coming loose. GOPR0235.JPG GOPR0237.JPG
     
  7. For my gas tank Im using a B17 bomber oxygen tank. Theres a build on this site called the Sugar House Spl. that inspired me to go this route. IMG_6796.JPG GOPR0234.JPG GOPR0233.JPG

    Unlike the Sugar House Spl., this tank is getting a vented cap so I only had the filler neck and a bung at the bottom welded in. This is my second favorite part on this build haha
     
  8. I also got the front body mounts fabbed and welded up. I will use rubber between the frame and body in the future. GOPR0240.JPG GOPR0241.JPG
     
  9. That's some good progress and that wheel is so cool, has an English style to it. JW
     
    AndersF and Texas36 like this.
  10. Nice job on the steering wheel and tank. Two very neat details!
     
    Texas36 likes this.
  11. Thanks! I think the wheel may have been an aftermarket accessory going off of some research but still havent found anything concrete.


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    brEad likes this.
  12. Thanks, my favorite part about hotrods are the small details that help put it into a specific era.


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  13. ChuckleHead_Al
    Joined: Mar 29, 2004
    Posts: 1,805

    ChuckleHead_Al
    Member

    Nice work brother, the tank, steering wheel are all looking bad ass.

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  14. Thanks Alex! I see the light at the end of the tunnel. Its far away... but I still see it lol
     
    26 T Ford RPU and ChuckleHead_Al like this.
  15. [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG] got my steering finalized tonight minus the column drop. Everything works nice and smooth.
    Side note: the repop tierod that macs sells is a super nice piece. Its a shame I had to cut it


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  16. Cool, its easy for you guys to cut and weld these items as in NZ we cant just go and do that. JW
     
  17. Subscribed. What thread are those model A tie rod ends? Everybody does the early ford with the 7 degree taper but I want to do something different. Also, you think they're stout enough for a set of wishbones?

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  18. Not sure on the thread size, one is right hand and the other is left hand thread. Ive seen a few wishbones done this way on cars that get abused and they havent had any issues. Majority of the load is focused on the front spring and spring perches, the wishbone mount is more of a pivot point so Im not too worried about them breaking. One thing to keep in mind is to not have the tierod protruding too far out of the wishbone when you weld it in as to make it a bit stiffer.
    Thanks for following along!


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  19. The tie rod end take ''ALL'' the braking force, which is about 70% of the total braking force. JW
     
  20. Oh true. Itll be fine


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  21. justabeater37
    Joined: Jan 1, 2009
    Posts: 1,234

    justabeater37
    Member
    from Iowa

    Cory Taulbert has some really nice bungs for using the early tie rod ends for wishbones in the classifieds.
     
    Texas36 likes this.
  22. He does. I'm trying to figure out if I can make them work right now.

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  23. Jake Sippl
    Joined: Nov 11, 2015
    Posts: 267

    Jake Sippl
    Member
    from Detroit MI

    It's looking good man! I really dig that tank. Where did you find it? I was looking for one for a long time with no such luck.
     
    Texas36 likes this.
  24. micshotrodgarage
    Joined: Sep 20, 2012
    Posts: 51

    micshotrodgarage
    Member
    from colorado

    I've been watching you're build thread since you started. And have been gathering ideas from your posts. I hope to build a very similar hot rod with my 26 t roadster. When I saw the steering wheel you found for this project I had to respond, It's the same as I have and will use for my car " see photos". Great minds think alike! When I found mine I was curious as well to what it came off of. I found a picture of the wheel being a 1937 Chevrolet. 38 might be similar. I'll continue to watch for sure, keep up the good works!

    The 47 Ford horn button is a close fit. I'm partial to the skull.
     

    Attached Files:

    26 T Ford RPU and Texas36 like this.
  25. Thanks brother, I picked up the tank at the lonestar roundup swap a few years ago. Will fit right in. I see them come up here and there, just have to keep your eyes out!


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    Jake Sippl likes this.
  26. Thats awesome! I wish mine still had the original rim but it was way too far gone to salvage. That horn button looks great too. I look forward to seeing your build, thanks for following along!


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  27. micshotrodgarage
    Joined: Sep 20, 2012
    Posts: 51

    micshotrodgarage
    Member
    from colorado

    sure will thanks...Mike
     
  28. Couple questions for @26 T Ford RPU @ChuckleHead_Al and anyone else with a 26-27. What did yall use for door hinge pins? are original style pins available anywhere? and also how many points did you mount the body to the frame? I currently have 4 and think maybe 2 more will be ok?
    EDIT: I just now discovered this thing called Google and found the hinge pins...
     
    Tim and cactus1 like this.
  29. I used eight in total, the six on the bodies sub frame. There are the two under the toe board and two on each of the other cross members, also two at the rear of the sub frame to support the P-U box and you should put some mounts there as well to hold the trunk area... this very important as this keeps the door locks aligned and the doors working without jamming. You must leave room to be able to shim the mounts for door adjustment.
    Happy to help with any other issues.:D JW
     
    Texas36 likes this.
  30. I cant remember what master cylinder you were going with but if you go with the 39-48 single circuit one you will need to have some retaining plates for the rear brake drums as if you break an axle the axle and brake drum will slide out leaving you with NO brakes, not even an E-brake. JW
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2018

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