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Projects 27 coupe build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by AndersF, Oct 17, 2015.

  1. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    I have those adapters too, nice product. Using the Buick hubs just makes sense. Looking good Anders! You are really cooking with gas now, nearing the home stretch!
     
    AndersF likes this.
  2. It's been some time since I saw this, and I've just got caught up with your progress.
    Very cool.
     
    AndersF likes this.
  3. Late to the Party
    Joined: Nov 16, 2015
    Posts: 869

    Late to the Party
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That's always a big moment when the car is standing on its own four feet for the first time! :D Congratulations, Anders!
     
    brad2v and AndersF like this.
  4. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 623

    AndersF
    Member

    Thanks all.
    It was a nice feeling to see the car on the ground for the first time.
    I am lucky the weather allowed me to push it outside for a better look.
    The stance and overall look is where i wanted so thats a big plus.
    I may should lower the engine 1-2 in the frame to make it perfect.
    But i know that i can get problem with my clutchrealese arm if i do that.
    I will look into that and see how i do.

    George, Those adapters was nice and a lot less work then adapt the drums on Ford hubs.
    But the outer adapters where a pain to get in place. Most becouse my spindels where at
    the plus size and adapters are very thin.
     
    Dannerr likes this.
  5. chevy54man
    Joined: Feb 7, 2013
    Posts: 1,684

    chevy54man
    Member
    from NC

    You are doing an awesome job and great fab work, best to you!
     
    AndersF likes this.
  6. greaser
    Joined: Apr 30, 2006
    Posts: 812

    greaser
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Wow, Anders! Really looking great out on it's legs like that.
    Stance and rubber size are right on!
    Mock-up looks like you may be considering 6" chop?
     
    AndersF likes this.
  7. brad2v
    Joined: Jun 29, 2009
    Posts: 1,608

    brad2v
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    NAILED the stance. Does it ever sight nice, and I too love the tire sizes. That's a big moment, you must be very excited.
     
    AndersF likes this.
  8. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 623

    AndersF
    Member

    Thanks all.
    The orginal plan was 6-7 inch chop.
    Final desision will be taken when my final seatingposition is made.
     
    Dannerr, Archiewest and 26 T Ford RPU like this.
  9. Tim_with_a_T
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 992

    Tim_with_a_T
    Member

    Looks bitchin'! Nice job!
     
    AndersF likes this.
  10. Cool build! You have so many more obstacles to overcome than we do here in the States. I admire your tenacity! Love the stance. (I like it tall, too, but you have to build it your way. ;))
     
    AndersF likes this.
  11. Stock Racer
    Joined: Feb 28, 2010
    Posts: 594

    Stock Racer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Looking good Anders! Stance is perfect!
     
    AndersF likes this.
  12. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 623

    AndersF
    Member

    This week i have worked with the steering.
    I was feeling real lucky when i found out that the 3/4 DD shaft was
    nearly a bolt in to the Volvo Hardy disc.
    It just needed some grinding on one of the D's to match.

    [​IMG]

    I got a Borgeson joint for the steeringshaft.
    The maximum operating angle they allowed is 35 degrees.
    So i did a serach on internet and write out a pic of a angle thingy. (Dont know what its called)

    [​IMG]

    I allso prepared the suport for the shaft.

    [​IMG]

    Then i cut out the angle thingy to sheck so i dont get to much angle.
    I landed around 30 degrees angle.

    [​IMG]

    So for the first time the steeringwheel is connected with the steeringbox.

    [​IMG]

    I then mounted the last steeringrod so i could twist the steringwheel and see the spindels move.

    [​IMG]

    I have a P&J Panhard bar for the frontend i intended to use.
    I dont know if the aftermarket steeringarms are longer than Ford orginal.
    But when i turned the steering max the gap betwin steeringrod and frontaxle
    was to narrow for the left mount.
    I am not sure i really need the Panhard bar anyway so i start without it and see how it handle.

    [​IMG]
     
    Dannerr, brad2v, Tim_with_a_T and 2 others like this.
  13. You're doing great and the angle thingie is called a Protractor. JW
     
    AndersF and Tim_with_a_T like this.
  14. Tim_with_a_T
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 992

    Tim_with_a_T
    Member

    You can move the frame side panhard bar mout up for clearance. I had to do the same thing on the belly button. Like you said, you have clearance until you turn the wheels fully. If you still want to run the panhard bar, just cut down the frame side mount so it puts the bar up and out of the way. You're doing a great job! I have been looking for a coupe body myself.... You're making me want one pretty bad....
     
    AndersF likes this.
  15. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 623

    AndersF
    Member

    Allways learn something new. Thanks.

    I am preatty sure the tech inspector wont be happy if i mount it in a angle.
    I try without and see how it handle.
    I think it clutter up the frontend anyway.
    It seems that we are even.
    I have looking around little myself for a cheap T-bucket body.
    But i have projects enuff so i should close my eyes instead.
     
    brEad and Tim_with_a_T like this.
  16. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 623

    AndersF
    Member

    Not much done since the last update.
    But i got my clutch working now.

    [​IMG]
     
  17. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 623

    AndersF
    Member

    At last i got some updates to show.
    One of the things i need is a parkingbrake.
    So i bought a Lokar for transmount.
    But i dont have a Lokar shifter so i had to make my own mouningtab.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I could then make the endpice that close my X-member under the u-joint.
    The 2 small holes are to mount my brakecabels for my parkbrake.
    The right side rear cabels for a Dodge B250 Van reach all the way
    from both sides.
    So now is it just the pice that connect the cabels to the handle thats missing.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Then i started with my steeringwheel.
    I had to make a adapter to fit my good looking steeringwheel to my steeringaxle.
    Took the Volvo steeringwheel and cut up some plastic on the backside to acsess the four spokes.
    Then cut them off to remove the center from the steeringwheel.
    Then some hacking with varios tools to trim it down where i wanted it.
    I belive the pics show rather well how i did.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    I need somewhere to sit in my rod.
    Started with a 3:rd row seat from a minivan.
    Narrowed it 8 inch.
    Took 4 inch on both sides on the bottomseat to keep the stock mouningtabs.
    The backrest i just take 8 inch from the middle. Or more correct.
    Slightley outside the middle to keep one of the reinforments for the headrests in the middle.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Dannerr, kiwijeff, Jet96 and 5 others like this.
  18. Great progress Anders, you have done lots. JW
     
    AndersF likes this.
  19. Tim_with_a_T
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 992

    Tim_with_a_T
    Member

    Love the steering wheel - I did something similar to mount my Lokar emergency brake handle.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  20. brad2v
    Joined: Jun 29, 2009
    Posts: 1,608

    brad2v
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Nice work on the steering wheel adapter, very clever
     
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  21. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,588

    volvobrynk
    Member
    from Denmark

    I see you re-used a Volvo clutch pedal, good idea to run old working items, of solid working cars to minimize the fabrication work needed!

    Good thinking!

    Is that a steering out of a boat?
     
    AndersF likes this.
  22. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 623

    AndersF
    Member

    Start to look like car now.
    Getting something done on yours?

    I was very happy when i found the steeringwheel.
    Had seen it in some builds and was my no:1 choise.
    And suddenly one was for sale here in sweden.
    A bonus is perfect size for a T.

    If no one make the parts you need you just have to try to make them yourself.
    Still wery ruff so it will need some more work done.

    The brake and clutch pedal is from a 245.
    Got the stuff for free and problaby better then aftermarket made i china.
    Yes, The steeringwheel is for boats and made in alu.
     
  23. chessterd5
    Joined: May 26, 2013
    Posts: 502

    chessterd5
    Member
    from u.s.a.

    First, It looks great!
    I would seriously wait on the chop till the last thing. Maybe even driving it for a while before you do it.
    But I'm not telling you what to do with your own car, it's just you've nailed the look already. A little paint and some finishing touches and it's gonna shine!
     
    brad2v, 26 T Ford RPU and AndersF like this.
  24. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 623

    AndersF
    Member

    Yes the chop is one of the last thing i do.
    But i really think 6-7 inch chop looks great.
    As it looks now i problaby land on 5-6.
     
    26 T Ford RPU likes this.
  25. I like the sound of the 5-6'' chop as im not that fond of the ''Pill Box'' look, but that's me. However you do it, it will look great just like the rest of the build. As for mine, I am just finishing up some minor chassis work and have started to paint it. JW
     
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  26. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 623

    AndersF
    Member

    Have been working with my front brakes.
    I need to adapt my Buick backingplates to Ford spindels.

    [​IMG]

    So i took a bit of heavy gauge sheetmetal and cut the centerhole.

    [​IMG]

    Clamped it to my spindle and used my handhold drillmachine with a drill same
    size as the boltholes on the spindels. Then just drilled in every hole long enuff
    to get a centermark.

    [​IMG]

    Then i took a small drill to do centeringholes before drilling the final holes.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I could then bolt the plate to the spindle.
    Next i have to cut out the center of the backingplate so the spindle go through.

    [​IMG]

    Then i put the spindle through the hole and put it down in the drum.
    Mounted the spindle in the drum with the wheelbearings to get the right position.
    Then centered and chimmed the backingplate to the drum.
    Could then tac them together before i took it all apart for final welding.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I had to do some minor adjustments after the welding but other and that it worked great.
    One side down and one more to go.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    gonzo, Dannerr, 1952B3b23 and 7 others like this.
  27. That's clever. JW
     
    AndersF likes this.
  28. Post 146 brake adaptation looks interesting; but half the pictures are now red X's:(
     
  29. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 9,791

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    I don't know what the post count is but I can see all the photos
     
  30. Weird, red X's on quite a few pictures on my PC; but they all show up in one form or another on my phone.
     

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