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Projects 27 coupe build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by AndersF, Oct 17, 2015.

  1.  
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  2. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 623

    AndersF
    Member

    One thing i have debated with my self is to mount a hitch or not.
    But its a good thing to have so i decide to have one to bring the trailer for longer trips.
    And i know at least one car from the era that had one to.
    [​IMG]
    So i bought one for Volvo 700 series to modify to my build.
    I cut the mounts off and keep the rest.
    Then i mocked it up with help of 3 jacks and measured for new mounts.
    I made them with the same tubing i used to the frame.
    And when all was done and welded it still fit as intended.
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    I have thinking of to make a bumper or nerf bars to my build.
    I did a quick test to make a bumper.
    I think i can make it look good but i am not sure the style is what i want.
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    If i dont like the look of the hitch its just two bolts to remove it when i dont use it.
    And if i want to i can make a pushbar and mount instead.
    [​IMG]
     
  3. That's well done.:cool::D JW
     
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  4. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 623

    AndersF
    Member

    Today i got the answer that the style for bumper i tested would not work.
    I tested the tail lights and a plate and its no way it will work.
    I am not sure it need anything more. I problaby try with a nerf made from
    roundbars just too see if it adds or distract the rear.

    [​IMG]
     
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  5. Late to the Party
    Joined: Nov 16, 2015
    Posts: 869

    Late to the Party
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I've never been a fan of nerf bars, even when they were current. Now they remind me of the time in the 60's when the "traditional" style of building Hot rods went out the window and clean design went to shit. Too much excess of everything, not the simple restraint of the earlier cars. The push bar will give you some protection without being so busy.
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2016
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  6. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 623

    AndersF
    Member

    I feel the same about them to.
    There are some that looking good but the most are just to much.
    But my frontbrakes and taillights put my car to the early 60:s.
    Even if its not a true traditional build i want it to look early 60:s
    at least at a quick look and thats why i consider nerfbars.
    But at the same time i dont want it to look like a circuswagon either.
    And my reference is the little mags becouse its all i have.
     
  7. Late to the Party
    Joined: Nov 16, 2015
    Posts: 869

    Late to the Party
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The early 60's were a lot different from the late 60's. ;)
     
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  8. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 10,284

    AHotRod
    Member

    How about a nerf / bumper something like this Anders?

    Modern3.jpg
     
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  9. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,588

    volvobrynk
    Member
    from Denmark

    I like nerd bars, bike fenders, bobbed rear fenders and other quarks (sp?) of the fifties and early sixties.

    But it's a look and feel thing, but in that era all has to look long, thin and lightweight.
    Look at how thin an early fifties car column is and how thin steering wheels of the era was. And the people

    And that is also why you attempt of nerf bars failed. If you you give it another go, remember there only to comply with the law, but has to be as light and simple as possible.
    So if you find the smallest avalible tube, and then go a little up I wall thickness, you should be golden.

    And if you can bend it in a nice big radius it should work. And look era correct, but I wouldn't do nerfbars without fenders. The look so good together.
    Then I would go for the ones often seen on VW bugs cal looker.

    [​IMG]

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    They give the look of they can double as a point to push start the car on the lakes.
    But only on the rear, spreader bar in front should do the part.
    Unless you bobbed the horns or go to suicide mount.
    I can't remember what you did.
     
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  10. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 623

    AndersF
    Member

    I had in mind that the bumper problaby would'nt work thats why i did it so fast and slobby.
    I dont think it would look bad proper done but it dont fit the era i was thinking of.
    But if it had worked it would help me to hide orange blinkers behind a white glass
    to keep my car at least semilegal. The easy solution would be to put a orange bulb
    in the backup light but i want to have red lenses only in back. So i guess its going to
    be red blinkers and hope for the best. Its no real meaning to overwork this area becouse
    if the lenses not are E-aproved its not legal anyway.
    I will try to make a nerf more in style that Glenn sugest above to see if it work or not.
    But not all hotrods had them so its not a nessesarity to have one.
     
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  11. I used these little bullet shape indicators tucked up underneath and made a nudge bar to protect the body in case I get a bump from behind. My indicators are not E approved but I can fit some off a motor cycle for certification and then change them back. JW
    [​IMG]
     
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  12. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 623

    AndersF
    Member

    Where i live the motorcycle units dont help me.
    The approval is for motorcycels not cars.:mad:
     
  13. Not even if they are large enough and carry the E classification ? JW
     
  14. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 623

    AndersF
    Member

    No. After the "E" theres a line of numbers that says wich application they are ment to.
    And if it not approved for cars they can be 10 inch wide and light up all the city and still not be legal.
    So its more and less impossible to build a old style car and be fully legal here.
    The most common way to solve this is to use a techinspection kit for inspections and then
    run whatever suits you. My intention was if i could make it nice i would at least have the
    right color and maybe not piss of the police so they care if they pulled me over.
    Thats why its not a real meaning to put a lot of work on this.
     
    26 T Ford RPU likes this.
  15. That's a bugga then.:( JW
     
  16. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 623

    AndersF
    Member

    Not much done lately but at least something has ben done.
    All bodynounts are done and the webbing where the floor will be attached.
    Knock out some dents on the body that would be hard to do later in the build.
    And last i lift up the body 4 inches to start fabbing the mounts
    for the hairpins.
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  17. flatheadpete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2003
    Posts: 9,408

    flatheadpete
    Member
    from Burton, MI

    Nice build! How did I miss this?
     
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  18. MMM I smell progress:cool::) JW
     
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  19. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 623

    AndersF
    Member

    Next thing to do was to mount the hairpins.
    After some measureing and cutting the mounts fitted good.

    [​IMG]

    Then some prep for the weld to penetrate good.

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    Then i just tacked it to place.
    Will do the final welding when i can flip the frame around.

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    Next to do was to mount the adapterkit that let the Buick drums fit to Fords Spindels.

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    So the spindels where put in the freezer.

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    And the adaptors in the owen.

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    Then i could mount them.

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    My goal for this week was to put the car on wheels.
    But thats not gonna happen.
    Missing the outer bearings and my only rims that fits have no tires.
    And its no meaning to mount them before the rims are painted.
    But its getting close now.

    [​IMG]
     
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  20. Good progress, coming together nicely. JW
     
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  21. flatheadpete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2003
    Posts: 9,408

    flatheadpete
    Member
    from Burton, MI

    I remember the first time I heard the freezer trick. Ball joints on an El Camino. Put the parts in the freezer and heat up the control arms. Works every time!
     
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  22. Tim_with_a_T
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 992

    Tim_with_a_T
    Member

    Love the hairpins and Buick drums! Are you using the Buick backing plates as well or early Ford?


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  23. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 623

    AndersF
    Member

    I got 2 rear backingplates from a Century 55 i intend to use.
    Hopefully i can make them to fit.
    A quick test indicate very tight fit betvin kingpin and brakecylinder.
    I allso have to check if its possible to mount a brakehose to the cylinder.
    I counting on to have all the brakinpower i ever will need.
    Dont want to end up like this guys.:D
     
  24. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 9,790

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    Looks great man! Your sure getting your money's worth out of that pipe bender!
     
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  25. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 623

    AndersF
    Member

    Next thing was the firewall.
    I have a "ideal" fitment betwen engine and firewall.
    And that is that the rear engineflange should be level with the firewall.
    The Dodge motor is wery short behind the cylinderheads and have the dist in the back.
    Thats mean that the bulge on the upper half of the firewall dont work.
    My solution this far have been to remove it from the body.
    But i need a firewall and after some thinking i deside to flip the stock upper half.
    First i hade to remove all holes and smooth it out.
    Then i could put it in place and weld it.

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    Next thing on the list with the firewall in place was the steeringshaft
    Its not a easy thing here in Sweden. It must be colapsible and be mounted high enuff
    to move your feet under it. A straight axle is out of question in this case.
    My solution is this monstreus one from a Volvo V70.
    But it fits better than it look and with some ugly trimmed off would not look that terrible.
    The most of the bulky parts will be hidden under the dash.

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  26. Tim_with_a_T
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 992

    Tim_with_a_T
    Member

    Nice job on the firewall! Looks great.
     
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  27. You did well hiding and fitting that steering column under the dash. JW
     
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  28. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 623

    AndersF
    Member

    Its been a long time since the last update now.
    My brakepedal with mastercylinder took for ever to do.
    And its ugly as a new Prius.
    But its build to combine my estethics with swedish tech requirement.
    In place it will not be visible.
    I am not sure if i should show it on this forum but do it anyway.

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    Then i sterted to fab some brackets to mount the grille and the cooler.

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    Next was to determine the height for the grilleshell.
    The 32 grilleshell is rather long for the T.
    Had to cut it of a bit.

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    Have allso cleaned and painted the rims and get the tires mounted.

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    I could now mount the tires and see my build on its own wheels for the first time
    since i beguinn the build. I rolled it out to take the chanse to see it from distance.

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  29. mkebaird
    Joined: Jan 21, 2014
    Posts: 289

    mkebaird
    Member

    Looking' good!
     
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  30. That sits very nice, great stance !! JW
     
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