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Technical 27 chev frame front crossmember fitment?

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Richie R, Jan 29, 2014.

  1. I am trying to work out figment of a SoCal model A front crossmember in my 27 chev frame. Will be built as Model A RPU highboy style
    A bit lost on first x member figment, I plan start on front of chassis build and work to the rear.
    1/ a 27 chev has a 103" wheelbase the same near enough to ford 28 to 31
    2/ fitting a 57 chev 235 and 3 speed, don't want to cut my 28 Ford firewall or tank.
    3/ how far forward should I fit crossmember? If using the radiator mounts as reference points I can gain another 5" moving the new crossmember forward and still have the frame horn ends well forward.
    4/ any issue pushing the new crossmember this far forward?
    5/ any one here fitted a a model A ford front crossmember to a 25 to 27 chev chassis?

    Once this part of the build is done I should be right, just looking for advice before I get stuck into the chassis build.
    Thanks all
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2014
  2. Is the rear axle directly under the highest part of the frame kickup? I assume that's where you want the rear axle.

    From that point measure 104" forward to what would be the model A front axle cl.

    How does that look?

    If you've got more room to move it forward to a point just before the front horns turn down, I'd probably put it there to give a little more wheelbase, which can equal some extra engine bay room.

    Watch your caster with the crossmember.
     
  3. Thanks for that X38, yes plan to run the original chev parallel rear springs to keep things simple and diff directly under the kick up.
    Not so worried about keeping the original wheelbase, more trying to keep the engine from intruding into the firewall.
    If I move it to where I plan, the turndown of the chassis end starts just after it, should not effect caster as much like trying to adapt to a 32 chassis (chev rails are mostly flat to the kick up
     
  4. Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jan 30, 2014

  5. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,099

    bct
    Member

    why not mock it up?
     
  6. Kume
    Joined: Jan 23, 2010
    Posts: 892

    Kume
    Member

    Great to see another chev ford hybrid build.
    The reverse 3 springer is interesting and lots of good info on the Ausy builds thread. I think the 27 chassis has the highest kick up so great choice- are you going to use shortened springs at the back.
    Kume



    Kume's Chev Model T build
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=859578
     
  7. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 2,771

    31Apickup
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    One thing to keep in mind is the relationship of the radiator from the side as compared to the front axle centerline. Cars usually look odd if the radiator is set forward of the axle centerline.
     
  8. Hi Spark, just looked over your build on the Ozzie Rods site, your build is almost exact to what I plan to do other than the rear narrowing.
    Want to keep it standard with factory Chevy springs reset to lower it.
    I am lucky with this chassis of mine, near perfect with just very minor pitting on the top of the rails.
    Never thought to reuse the front x member, might be able to move it back a bit and use it for the front mount support for the engine.
     
  9. The front cross member was toast, I moved the next one forward to use as the engine mount cross member.

    our "rules" require an original cross member to be considered a 1927 chassis.

    Also motor needs to be supported in the event of a broken motor mount so it doesn't drop down and jam up the steering or hit the road.
     
  10. Yes that's the plan, trying to keep as much original as possible on the chassis for our rego rules. The rear tank cover and forward rear spring x member will stay untouched, the original gearbox mounts will stay and I will build my new forward gearbox/rear engine "wing" mounts of that.
    The rear original engine mount (nice looking factory x member) will be then fitted right behind that for rear gearbox mount,,,,, if things work out that I have in my head :)
    This way I have 3 seperate engine and gearbox mounting location than the normal 2.
     
  11. Picture of the Chev x membe
     

    Attached Files:

  12. I'm not sure what motor / gearbox you are using but my early mock ups had the second x member too high and in the middle of the trans sump.
     
  13. This motor, a Chev 235 from a 57 chevy.
    The engine mounts are directly behind the pulley.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jan 31, 2014
  14. krazee
    Joined: Nov 3, 2011
    Posts: 58

    krazee
    Member

    Ritchie, I have used '37 / '38 car front springs in the rear. My chassis is a '29. I set the diff under the highest kickup point at the rear, used the original hangers and made new mounts for the shorter spring length and made up new shackles. I took 2 leaves out of the springs. Also using parallel front springs and a 50's pickup axle in the front. Check my posts for how I did it if you are interested.
     
  15. do lots of mock-ups as you go, the 6 will make it long in the front.
    as far as ford bodies go- 1928 ford bonnet is about 28 inches long, 1930 30 3/4 inches.
    I have about 30 inches from the fire wall to the radiator shell and plan to use the chev fan- may be able to get it back to 29 inches.

    I did a 31 ford closed cab a few years back, one mock up had the front close to 34 inches... it looked wrong and I couldn't live with it- got it back to 32 inches with a flat fire wall.

    this is were I'm at now, the motor will come down and the cab will be channeled -(crusty cowl is what I use for mock up)
     

    Attached Files:

  16. I will use short leaf springs (parallel) on top of the HiLux diff. The eye of the spring will be under the tank cover.

    The front of the spring will have the shackles forward and above the top of the chassis rail. The brackets will be part of the pickup bed frame.

    The springs will sit just in side the frame rail.

    This is one of the reasons for bringing in the rear rails - to get it all in the Model A pick up bed.
     
  17. Thanks for the interest and replies, great to get so many responses and views.
    Due to some of Australia's rules on rod build requirement for road use one hand is always behind your back.
    To receive full rego/road use in my state of Victoria, to have on the road as a 27 Chev ( will be classed as a rebodied Chev, not a model A) I have to keep at least 2 original x members in the standard place. Otherwise I have to not much chance to ever legally have on the road.
    As I am running quite a low power motor (but heavy) it should pass with not too many issues I hope :/
    I really don't want to box the full length. Current plan is to bolt in a flat 5mm x 100mm inside the rails from the front A model X member to the kick up, using all the old cable brakes and running board bolt/rivet holes. No welding or new holes at all. Every new crossmember will be welded to it.
    In the long run I have no idea if this will work but happy to try.
    Thinking of bolting the new x member to the old mount as in this picture.
     

    Attached Files:

  18. I forgot to add in my inebriated state, looking at lots of A models pictures with 6s, will have to somehow keep the overall hood length under 31 or so inches, otherwise it will be plan B in running a Chev 181 marine 4 cylinder if I can find one at a great price.
    Wish Ford made another big 4 banger other the original side-valve.
     
  19. I would get some advice on the non boxing of the chassis.

    You could make up a frame from square tube, that sits inside the rails and in between the original x members tied together with bolted brackets to the cross members. With crush tubes added you could bolt the original chassis rails to it, this would carry the drive train and suspension.

    I suspect any change of suspension or running gear will require some form of boxing.

    Good luck with it, but do yourself a favor and talk to an engineer before you get too far into it, after all you will need an engineer to sign off on it when it is done.
     

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