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265 lifter clatter pt 2! Cleaning passages

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by BOOB, Sep 29, 2011.

  1. BOOB
    Joined: Oct 1, 2008
    Posts: 534

    BOOB
    Member
    from Taylor, TX

    Here's an explanation of whats going on:

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=589697

    I'm seriously considering the oil passage redirection recommended in the thread. I know it's a janky ass sloppy risky procedure but I'm willing to give it an honest shot.

    But first, is it possible to (somewhat) clean out the oil passeges throught the lifter holes? I'm imagining fashioning some pipe cleaners with 90 deg bends and running them through the passages. Is this a possibility?

    I'm not a half ass kind of guy but if I pull this motor out only to have to halfway rebuild it im not puting it back in. I would rather build another engine, which isn't in the budget or forcast for that matter. So if I can clear up this problem and get a few more miles out of this thing without beating my valve stems to a mushroomed death I'm ready to try anything.
     
  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,707

    squirrel
    Member

    I know it sounds like a stupid suggestion, but have you tried adding an extra quart of oil?
     
  3. BOOB
    Joined: Oct 1, 2008
    Posts: 534

    BOOB
    Member
    from Taylor, TX

    No sir. But its worth a shot! I'm picking up the car on my lunch break. I'll swing by the parts house and grab a quart.
     
  4. BOOB
    Joined: Oct 1, 2008
    Posts: 534

    BOOB
    Member
    from Taylor, TX

    If it was starving for oil wouldn't the pressure drop?
     

  5. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,707

    squirrel
    Member

    YOu'd think....but hey, see what happens, if it's like any of my rides it would need it in a couple hundred miles anyways
     
  6. Pull it out . completly dissamble. remove all core plugs. hot tank dlock. Measure & replace all bearings cam lifters etc. you have something worn letting oil pressure excape.
     
  7. LastMinuteMark
    Joined: Apr 11, 2008
    Posts: 349

    LastMinuteMark
    Member
    from So. Cal.

    ***
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2018
  8. BOOB
    Joined: Oct 1, 2008
    Posts: 534

    BOOB
    Member
    from Taylor, TX

    Studs are perfect, heads are completely freshened power packs including guides, seats and hardware.

    Talking it over with a few buddies the past hour we think it HAS to be oil passages.
     
  9. terryble
    Joined: Sep 25, 2008
    Posts: 541

    terryble
    Member
    from canada

    This will seem like a DUMB answer but I new a guy who complained about noisy lifters in his 265 even tried adjusting them running but as soon as he got them quite it would start to miss! Early 265s in standart trans cars have solid lifters only automatics had hydraulic lifters.
     
  10. racer32
    Joined: Sep 22, 2007
    Posts: 745

    racer32
    Member

    Might try soaking lifters in some solvent and pumping the plungers up and down. See if any gunk comes out.
     
  11. terryble
    Joined: Sep 25, 2008
    Posts: 541

    terryble
    Member
    from canada


    Sorry I just reread the whole thing and saw the replaced hydraulic lifters piece I guess it is a REALLY DUMB answer!
     
  12. thorpe31
    Joined: May 4, 2011
    Posts: 166

    thorpe31
    Member
    from nor-cal

    Was the rear cam bearing replaced and lined up?
    Is what you called a groove in the rear cam journal a wide notch cut out?
     
  13. BOOB
    Joined: Oct 1, 2008
    Posts: 534

    BOOB
    Member
    from Taylor, TX

    The bearings werent replaced but appeared great. The oil holes lined up perfect. The notch was cut to spec. I forget the dimensions but they're floating around here somewhere.
     
  14. BOOB
    Joined: Oct 1, 2008
    Posts: 534

    BOOB
    Member
    from Taylor, TX

    I pulled the lifters out of the original block to see what I was up against and the access to the lifter oil passages is pretty easy. If I find any gunk I'll clean it up as best as possible and see how it acts. If they appear clean I may have to drink a few beers before I can conjure up the stupidity to drill and tap. I'm confident about keeping the lifter oil passages clean due to accessibility but the center passage is a shot in the dark. I've seen people due WAAAAY worse to an sbc and have it last 100K. What have I got to lose!?
     
  15. Buford
    Joined: Aug 30, 2001
    Posts: 314

    Buford
    Member

    Make sure the distributor isn't turned too far either way as it can block oil to the lifters. The distributor has a flat area where it intersects the oil passage. This happens a lot if the engine has three carburetors and the vacuum advance hit the rear carb. I learned this the hard way 50 years ago.Good luck, Frank
     
  16. BOOB
    Joined: Oct 1, 2008
    Posts: 534

    BOOB
    Member
    from Taylor, TX

    The distributer was clocked where the flat spot was to the front.

    I inspected the oil passages and they were clean! So I took the plunge and decided to tap into the center passage. All went well. I haven't driven the car yet but I will this afternoon.

    What I did was dry out the areas around where the holes were to be located. Made my center punches and set up a powerful vacuum almost touching the drill bit and had two magnets just as close. The magnets picked up all the shavings from the pilot holes and the vacuum did with the finishing holes. I stopped several times while drilling each he to clean the magnets and inspect the area. This all went surprisingly well. After the holes were drilled and tapped for 1/8 NPT I was able to stick my entire magnet into the oil passage and send it almost an inch in both directions. Most everything came out on the first pass. Of course I was nervous doing this but like I said it went well. I didn't use the grease method because my theory is that if a small bit of grease traps some shavings and stick to the passage wall there is a good chance the magnet may not be able to pick it up. I used new bits and a heave duty slow turning drill to keep a consistent speed. The passages were bigger that I expected which made it even easier to clean up. I'll post a pic ASAP.
     
  17. BOOB
    Joined: Oct 1, 2008
    Posts: 534

    BOOB
    Member
    from Taylor, TX

    Here ya go
     

    Attached Files:

  18. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,707

    squirrel
    Member

    that there is some hokey looking shit, I love it. I hope it fixes the problem.
     
  19. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,199

    badshifter
    Member

    Whoa! I just had a flashback to plumbing a hidden nitrous system back in my street racing days.....
    Good luck with the 265!
     
  20. BOOB
    Joined: Oct 1, 2008
    Posts: 534

    BOOB
    Member
    from Taylor, TX

    If you can't remember mr. Squirrel, I've been chasing this problem for two years. Desperate broke ass times calls for jankey hokey ass measures.
     
  21. sdluck
    Joined: Sep 19, 2006
    Posts: 2,511

    sdluck
    Member

    Does the cam have the flat spot in the rear journal?
     
  22. sdluck
    Joined: Sep 19, 2006
    Posts: 2,511

    sdluck
    Member

    Sorry I see you have alreadybeen asked that,any chance it is a solid lifter cam?
     
  23. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,298

    56sedandelivery
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Any chance the oil pump sump screen is too close to the bottom of the oil pan? Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
  24. budd
    Joined: Oct 31, 2006
    Posts: 3,478

    budd
    Member

    could the lifter bores be worn? why would some chatter and not all? hey what about plumbing in an oil pressure gage into each of the two lifter oil passages, you allready have the holes taped in them.
     
  25. BOOB
    Joined: Oct 1, 2008
    Posts: 534

    BOOB
    Member
    from Taylor, TX

    It works! The clatter is gone, the car is more responsive, idles WAY better at temp, oil pressure (strangly) is improved and best of all THE CLATTER IS FINALLY FUCKING GONE. Now, lets see if I missed any shavings!
     
  26. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    It amazes me that you were able to figure out where and how to drill the holes in the perfect spot from the one paragraph the other member provided. Good job ! :D That setup in ingenious and I guess works like those kits they used to sell for Y block Fords to do the same sort of thing.

    Don

    [​IMG]
     
  27. Glad to hear the lines you ran worked. But your distrbutor clocking was wrong. Where did the vac advance end up being in the position you descibe above. Because with flat being pairallel with the front of the block the oil would have went right down the dist. hole and never made it across to right bank oil galley.
     
  28. noboD
    Joined: Jan 29, 2004
    Posts: 7,252

    noboD
    Member

    Cool beans, hope it works for 100k miles. I would consider soldering all the compression fittings except the ones needed to remove your contraption.
     
  29. BOOB
    Joined: Oct 1, 2008
    Posts: 534

    BOOB
    Member
    from Taylor, TX

    I had the advance pointing toward #2, i could be mistaken where the flat spot was.
     
  30. Boob, I'm not try to come off as you did wrong. I've been down that same road with a friends 55'. The lifters did all the samethings as yours did. Lots of scratching my head and new lifters even installed. Nothing, tell I looked at how the oil galley passage and the distrbutor oiling grove worked in relation to one another. If your still useing the dist. with the flat you may still be bleeding oil. Do double check. The work you did with the lines is not at all wasted. The lifters now have full time oiling now instead of palse oiling each time the cam came around to oil the galleys.
     

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