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Projects 26 T Roadster Pick Up build Thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Blue One, Mar 27, 2010.

  1. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,940

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Thanks Tim :) I just wish I had more time, every time I build a small part, the hours fly by.

    Oh well, a little at a time.
     
  2. exStreamliner
    Joined: Apr 7, 2009
    Posts: 1,544

    exStreamliner
    Member

    I'm working on my T over the holidays and just checked to see how yours was going... I feel like a slacker... Great build!
     
  3. Malcolm
    Joined: Feb 9, 2006
    Posts: 7,694

    Malcolm
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska

    Great build and very nice work -- looking forward to seeing more!



    Malcolm
     
  4. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,940

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    And then there were 2 :)

    I made the panel for the drivers side.

    Also drilled and bolted them is place ( 2 bolts to the bottom of the box and 1 bolt into a nutsert insert in the frame) so they are where they will be after paint later on.

    I had some drop in seat pads made for the bomber seats, black textured vinyl.

    The foam in the bottom and the slight bolster to keep your legs off the front edge of the seat.

    With 4" of foam on the bottom and 2" on the back they are surprisingly comfortable.

    The backs slip over the seats and are held in at the bottom with a couple small straps and snaps.

    The base cushion is captured by the seats shape.

    Of course the cushions are removable in case I want to show off the seats.

    I can mount the seats and see where the steering wheel and brake pedal etc. will be.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Dec 23, 2012
  5. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,940

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I went ahead and ordered some header stubs to fit my Y Block header flanges from Tanson.

    Very nice fitting set of header stubs, they fit the flanges nicely.

    http://www.forwhatyouneed.com/exhaust_header_flange_sets.htm


    I'm having trouble with the steering.

    I just can't seem to figure out which way to go. :confused:

    A Vega box mounted on top of the frame rail with the pitman up for push pull steering or a reversed corvair box mounted in the same location(just in front of firewall on top of frame rail)

    Either of these options will work but fit is difficult. Using the Vega box this way is especially difficult and requires the pitman arm to point up causing a conflict for space needed for the lakes headers.

    Another option is cowl steering, but I'm just not sure.

    This has me scratching my head the more I look at it. Driving me nuts.
    I'll figure it out eventually (I think :))
    This part of scratch building is the tough part.

    Fabricating is the easy part. :)

    Larry.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jan 17, 2013
  6. daddio211
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 5,998

    daddio211
    Member

    Though its not traditional, I LOVED my Maval cross-steer half rack! Few people saw it, and it was a dream to steer.

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     
  7. DaddyO's..Deuce
    Joined: Jul 31, 2011
    Posts: 782

    DaddyO's..Deuce
    Member
    from Missery

    I'm running cowl steering with an old BMW box, no complaints here. Clears my lakester headers too.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,940

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Decision has been made. Flaming river reversed Corvair box and quite possibly a steer clear chain drive between the steering column and box to preserve what little foot space I'll have, and to allow the column to have a good angle for good steering wheel position as well. :)

    The reversed corvair box will be easier to mount and the pitman arm can point down eliminating the conflict with the lakes headers.

    If I use one the steer clear will not be visible unless you look hard under the dash.

    Updates to follow when appropriate :)
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2013
  9. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,940

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I spent a little time today fixing some cancer found in the bodies subrail structure.

    I knew it was there and today was the cut out and replace it day.

    Now of course the body is re-mounted and naturally the passenger door no longer fits well.

    So, next will be re-fitting the door. A few hours and all should be good.

    Then the floors can be made.

    Edit.

    While I did the subrail repair I also added a small notch to the rear of the body at the bottom center for a small measure of extra driveshaft clearance.

    Earlier on in the thread you may remember I had widened the rear of the tub and reshaped the top lip of the rear of the body to match the sides.

    Well the back of the body has been bothering me for some time.

    With the combination of old and new metal and the weld seams it was not as nice as I would like it to be.

    It did turn out well but has too much curve now top to bottom and also curves towards the rear a bit too much.

    So much so it is now in contact with the front panel on my bed.

    The plan is to cut the back out, and fabricate a whole new top rail using my bead roller, shrinker and stretcher.

    Then a new skin.

    The plan is less curve from the bottom up and less curves to the rear.

    If that makes sense.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2013
  10. patmanta
    Joined: May 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,648

    patmanta
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Woburn, MA
    1. MASSACHUSETTS HAMB

    I have some subrail cancer as well. Do you have any pointers, tricks or words of caution in regards to repair/fabrication of 26/27 T subrails? I haven't found a whole lot of specific info and no reproduction parts so I'm asking while it's fresh in your mind.
     
  11. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,940

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    The best thing I can say is to make sure you use the same thickness of metal that was there originally.

    Try to make sure that the welding you do will end up leaving things straight, the warpage issue can be frustrating.

    I have modified my rails somewhat from original because of changes I'm making to the floor,toeboard angle etc.

    Another thing to watch out for is keeping the rails straight as far the centerline of the body goes.

    Someone worked on mine a little before I got it and the whole back of the body was skewed to one side about 2" off center.

    That took a little doing to fix :)
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2013
  12. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,940

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Started on the back of the body.

    I cut off the top rail and then a big section out of the middle.

    Then I started building the new top rail for the back of the body.

    I rolled a bead into the metal and then bent it near the bead, just slightly more than 90 degrees.

    This formed the bead for the back of the top rail.

    I then went at it with my shrinker to curve the rail. I did the corners, then the center piece.

    I was going to have it go straight (flat across from the corners) but decided it looked better shrinking a little and curving it slightly.

    Next will come replacing the metal for the rest of the buckets back end. :)
    Larry
    26 body 002 (2).jpg 26 body 004 (2).jpg 26 body 005 (2).jpg 26 body 006 (2).jpg 26 body 007 (2).jpg 26 body 009 (2).jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2019
    Sergeant82d likes this.
  13. daddio211
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 5,998

    daddio211
    Member

    Can I say FABULOUS without being gay?

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     
  14. squarebird352
    Joined: Jun 5, 2010
    Posts: 57

    squarebird352
    Member

    looking good! subscribed! nice yblock intake!
     
  15. linkstar69
    Joined: Jul 24, 2008
    Posts: 88

    linkstar69
    Member

    I think you're safe because you're talking about a killer hot rod in the build
     
  16. daddio211
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 5,998

    daddio211
    Member

    LOL. This really is an amazing build!

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     
  17. exStreamliner
    Joined: Apr 7, 2009
    Posts: 1,544

    exStreamliner
    Member

    Here are the headlight stands I was talking about

    [​IMG]
     
  18. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,940

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Those look good. I'm sure I can use them. Thanks.

    I may end up grafting them onto the F1 shock mounts and mounting my headlights that way, not totally sure but I'll get there yet :)

    One step at a time. That's the way it is with fabrication. It all takes time :)
     
  19. exStreamliner
    Joined: Apr 7, 2009
    Posts: 1,544

    exStreamliner
    Member

    I grafted the headlight ball mount on F1 shock mounts and mounted shock stud on the side... makes for a high headlight position... that is why SoCal does a shorter F1 mount behind and a headlight bar type mount in front... I have a lot more grill heigth on the 33 and by todays standard they are at nose-bleed heigth

    [​IMG]
     
  20. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,940

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I've seen a few examples of the headlight stands coming off the shock mounts, I think Brian Bass did it on one of his cars if I recall correctly.

    They can be done so the headlights are lower.

    I think I want my lights around midpoint on my grille anyway.

    I'm not a big fan of the headlights mounted way down on the frame rails near or in the bottom half of the grille shell.
     
  21. Beautifull car nice project !!!!!!!

    Frenchy
     
  22. ESGEE
    Joined: Feb 25, 2013
    Posts: 606

    ESGEE
    Member
    from Sweden

    Going great, will follow this build for sure. Keep the good work up....
     
  23. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,940

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Got the back of the body done, well almost. :) Still going to do something with the new top flange I built.

    I want it to be exposed and painted rather than covered with upholstery.

    I'll build a lip for it and a flange underneath to fasten the aluminum panel I plan to line the body with.

    I decided to use the bead roller to roll a step into the rear panel to stiffen it a little and give it a little detail even though it will mostly be hidden.

    Tacked it all in place with the mig using tacks close together and then used a sanding disc to knock the tacks flush and smooth inside and out.

    Grabbed my little jewelers torch and gas welded the seams.

    Then some weld smoothing with an 80 grit disc and a little dolly work.

    Then re-mount the body for the 100th time or so :D

    Larry.
    055 (2).jpg 056 (2).jpg 057 (2).jpg 058 (2).jpg 059 (2).jpg 062 (2).jpg 063 (2).jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2019
  24. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,940

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Remounted :)
    064 (2).jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2019
  25. Mark Fox
    Joined: Dec 22, 2011
    Posts: 59

    Mark Fox
    Member

    What gas are you using with that jewellers torch? Thank you.
     
  26. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,940

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Oxy -Acetylene with .035 Mig wire as filler.
     
  27. Jerry579
    Joined: Mar 10, 2013
    Posts: 7

    Jerry579
    Member
    from usa

    Didn't see the reveals- looks good![​IMG]
     
  28. squarebird352
    Joined: Jun 5, 2010
    Posts: 57

    squarebird352
    Member

    holly shit man, Dig it! keep going, I'm using a late 60's early 70's ford pickup steering box. I had it rebuilt and reveresed, it's an ideal steering box for a cowl steering setup. american made and easily stuffed behind the dash to save room.
    [​IMG]
     

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