The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Blue One, Mar 27, 2010.
No, but it can be all mounted much the same way on the inside, mine is....just not as pretty yet. JW
Two reasons, one, I run a full hood, two, I'm too fat and too old to lay on my back in such a small space for hours wiring. Coulda ten years ago, but that ship has sailed.
This build has been and continues to be a learning experience and changes have been made mostly for the better
The wiring harness is no different so it seems
After getting the American Autowire Hiway 15 wiring kit I realized that it is way more kit than I need for my RPU.
So back it went to Summit.
Then I contacted Jeremy at Rebel Wire and after some discussion involving all of my components he came up with a modified 9+3 kit for my RPU.
A great guy and I’ll be getting my kit very soon.
Then I’ll be able to get this thing electrified.
He added some things and deleted others and modified systems to what I needed for the components I’m using and added some extra labeling to the wire bundles for me.
Here’s what he came up with based on my components.
-9+3 setup for a keyed hot 3 pin flasher
-longer brake switch wires
-extra long neutral safety switch wire, 10ft
-no turn indicator wires in the dash section
-single turn indicator wire in the switch bundle for the Pilot wire on the switch
-60 amp maxi fuse with holder and cover with 10ga terminals
-high and low beam wires bundled into headlight switch bundle, no dimmer switch wire
-extra labeling tagged on switch bundles
I'm a long way from even thinking of wiring for my RPU but it will be bare bones basic; lighting system, charging system. At one time I had considered one of those basic dune buggy harnesses that used to be relatively cheap.
How reasonable is this harness you're getting? Is it crazy spendy? reasonable? super great deal?
That’s some customer service!
I thought it was pretty reasonable. With my Alliance discount it was $220 plus shipping.
This experience has proven that Rebel Wire is a great choice.
The ability to have a custom tailored harness built is hard to beat.
Wow, that is reasonable, especially since it sounds like its almost made to order.
Thanks for the info
Yeah that’s way less than I’d have expected. Really looking forward to seeing how you tackle wiring this thing.
While I wait for the harness I’ll finish my new tie rod and set up the front end toe in.
Then build my new fan shroud and get it in for powder coating.
Don't forget to have a couple of lighter/accessory sockets, they really come in handy. JW
I’m thinking about finding a combination sort of thing with a lighter socket and a couple of USB ports if I can. And then find a good place to hide them where they can still be used
I don't know where he's getting them, but Ryno (on here) is putting some of those in Clarence this winter. I'm sure he's got it totally scoped out and can tell you the best source.
I put mine in the front of my seat riser of which you don't have, but you will sort that. I just use a USB adapter if needed. JW
Tucked this one under the dash above the kick panel. Easy to find online, this one is pretty weather tight outside of no caps. I was seeing them used on boats and off road trucks so I figured it was worth a go.
The only thing I’d add is that when I was looking up how to wire and properly fuse it it seems the chargers take barely any amps but a lighter take almost 10x so you might want to ask more about that combo.
I will add that it was actually kind of hard to find decent information even though it’s an extremely common part. Maybe I call it something odd and it made my searches come up light. Either way my information is a little pieced together from several source so I’d just take it as a generalities.
I love your dedication to the smallest detail. I have taken some advice and ideas from your build, that I have applied to my own build. I just finished rereading the whole thread over the last couple of days. I also like that you are not bashful about takeing a finished part and redu it. I would not say you are OCD but I noticed all the wheels on your toolboxes are clocked the same way.
Thanks, nothing OCD about the toolbox wheels, they orient themselves into the same position when you roll the boxes into place, no attention required.
And even if they didn't I wouldn't be inclined to bother
When you do your wiring DYMO makes heat shrink tape so you can label the wires.i got mine from Amazon, and it prints from my Ipad or IPhone.
Yours is my all time build to follow. Thanks for letting me tag along. Frank
Thanks for the follow up. I did not intend to disparage your wiring skills; just curious how it was laid out; but I am surprised that you had that much juice lost thru the two switches and short wire runs. Makes you wonder what is inside the new stuff.
No offense taken Rich.
So today I spent the day bending and then polishing my new tie rod tube.
I had figured out the length I needed and how much I would lose with the bends and had the tube cut and re-threaded on the right hand threaded end at a local machine shop.
My wife helped me out with getting the bends set up and oriented properly it was a two person job.
Then afterwards when I had it installed she helped me dial in and measure 1/8” of toe in.
The gauge I made worked great so did having the double adjusters on each side.
So now there’s lots of clearance for the mechanical fan and the clearance for turning is good like it was previously too.
Tomorrow I’ll work on the shroud.
Looking good buddy, looking good.
I love it when a plan comes together.
That really looks great
This is a great and even a period compromise and or solution...to your former dilemma...
I just want to present a scenario I experience with metal bent in a similar manner and what I presume is related to what I am going to mention.
My radiator support struts are bent in a way like your steering link...why to clear engine related matter...
What I see happen is most of the time is when cruising the rad sits still and Firm...many times however the rad rattles sides to side and I believe the bent rods allow a flex that straight struts would not allow.
Obviously your bar is a much heavier stock and strength may stymie this potential weakness in running an offset or not straight bar...
I am just thinking out loud and thought I would share this...I have researched replacing my struts with straight ones as it may eliminate my discussed rad shaking...and there is room to reposition the cowl support bracket.
I don’t believe this tie rod is going to do any flexing.
It was advertised as being Stainless Steel 7/8”x .156 wall tubing.
I just measured the extra piece that was cut off and it’s actually 7/8” x .1875 , that’s a full 3/16” wall thickness.
That’s really stout stuff.
No doubt...I was just thinking with road activity pounding away at the wheels it could exert a fair bit of force to that component possibly opening up possibility of bump or wobble issues...
I actually replicated my struts out of a larger dia. bar but the problem in my case didn't go away.
You have driven your ride prior to your redo here so at this point in time I can't recall what changed to cause the change we are discussing.
I know you will be giving it a driven workout so any issues that arise you will be noting them.
Having the mechanical fan versus the electric fan will make all of this worthwhile.
I have a front panhard bar and if I have any issues later on I have the room and ability to add a steering dampener from So- Cal.
And NO this is not an opening for anyone to start a discussion on the merits of or drawbacks to steering dampeners.
Looks good Larry, it’s after 9 this morning, got that shroud done yet?
Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Can I have some coffee first?
I’m getting to it
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